When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Has anyone installed a shift kit in their 700r4? I am preparing to attempt to install a TRANSGO 700 2+3 kit and I want to know what I'm getting myself into. They say it includes detailed instructions AND an instructional video.
Over the years, I have used many TG shift kits, and have found them wonderful......8 years ago when I had someone else do my 700 tranny, they installed a Superior/Fairbanks shift kit, and sure enough it has tossed the last 3/4 clutch pack at me...and so I built my own 200 4r with a TG shift kit....thing was, I was scared to try redoing that damn 700 again due to maybe differant springs, and valve body work/shift body plate, etc.....that I would not recognize stock from allready modded in another idea/concept.....so I decided to go from scratch with an entirely differant tranny and a TG kit....
having said all that, IF the 700 shifts fine, and so the fluid is clean and fresh and NOT scorched...you can maybe, maybe install the kit and everything be fine....I put my faith in the TG outfit once again, and IF the tranny is good, you should be fine...
I use wheel bearing grease to hold the bearings/***** in place, some folks recommend Vaseline...but normally that holds ***** of another sort....
anyway...the instructions are very clear and well written for my 200 4r here and easy to do...you can do various things like a carb o'haul, and some other crap...you can do a shift kit....
I had a transmission shop install a TG shift kit in the 700r4 in my 93 c4 vette and it was the best improvement to the car i drove for 10 more years, with 1 rebuild. the shifts were real firm and just popped! good luck with your own install. Jim
I rebuilt my TH350 (and I'm not a mechanic by any means, before I started restoring my '79 I hadn't even jacked up a car to change a tire - and that is no exageration).
From the advice of a compete novice, rebuilding a transmission is something you can do if you have the patience and some basic tools (a torque wrench is a must). The shiftkit/rebuild kit instructions I got from B&M were half-assed at best and the pictures were awful (they looked like they were photocopied on a cheap copier). If your kit comes with a video and printed instructions, it sounds like you should have no problem. Also, do yourself a favor and buy a complete rebuild book from a bookstore.
Having a second set of instructions with different wording and pictures at a different angle can be extremely helpful when you're completely lost.
The transgo 2&3 shift kit seperates the men from the boys. The following must be done to install the complete kit:
Pump must have regulator spring replaced, should have a .471 boost valve(not included in kit) installed
Input drum inside the trans must be completely disassembled to allow for installation of the high pressure piston return springs to prevent centrifical clutch apply.
Servo must be disassembled and modified by "feel" to get 2-4 band correct. This is done by removing a spring and setting up the pin with selectives.
Valve body should be completely disassembled and modded per the instructions. This will involve drilling holes in the valve body and making a ton of metal filings to be chased and cleaned. Valves and springs will need changing.
Valve body seperator plate must be drilled in the correct spots and have lead plugs hammered in, and filed smooth
Restrictor plugs must be hammered into the 4th accumulator and the rear of the worm track.
The transgo 2&3 shift kit seperates the men from the boys. The following must be done to install the complete kit:
Pump must have regulator spring replaced, should have a .471 boost valve(not included in kit) installed
Input drum inside the trans must be completely disassembled to allow for installation of the high pressure piston return springs to prevent centrifical clutch apply.
Servo must be disassembled and modified by "feel" to get 2-4 band correct. This is done by removing a spring and setting up the pin with selectives.
Valve body should be completely disassembled and modded per the instructions. This will involve drilling holes in the valve body and making a ton of metal filings to be chased and cleaned. Valves and springs will need changing.
Valve body seperator plate must be drilled in the correct spots and have lead plugs hammered in, and filed smooth
Restrictor plugs must be hammered into the 4th accumulator and the rear of the worm track.
All of a sudden I feel like a 49 year old boy! I hadn't counted on removing and disassembling the trans. Transgo website says you don't need to remove the trans.
There is a similar TRANSGO kit (TGP 700) on ebay (I don't know how to link to E-bay) the seller (TRANSMISSIONEXCHANGECO) says the kit is the "do it yourself" version of the 700 2+3 with easier instructions and an instruction video.
I was thinking remove the valvebody/separator plate, get the Transgo separator plate follow the instructions for the kit and reinstall the valvebody and separator plate and live happily ever after..
You can do it in the car, but it is a bear to do that way. I have faith that you could do it. You will also love the results. Some guys say that they are a simple install. They are tricky, but doable.
I had a transmission shop install a TG shift kit in the 700r4 in my 93 c4 vette and it was the best improvement to the car i drove for 10 more years, with 1 rebuild. the shifts were real firm and just popped! good luck with your own install. Jim
I have a TRANSGO kit in another vehicle and I love it. Been in there for several years. Manually holds 1,2,3 to any rpm, firm 1-2 shift, moderate 2-3 shift, just an all around nice piece.
You can do it in the car, but it is a bear to do that way. I have faith that you could do it. You will also love the results. Some guys say that they are a simple install. They are tricky, but doable.
This is an ART Carr trans. It won't hold manual low. I called them and they said they don't modify the valvebody itself but they do put their own kit in it. I asked why it won't hold L1 and they gave me some lame answer about "it's a TV controlled trans". It only has 5K miles on it. Thing is I bought it 2 years ago but only installed it 6 mos ago. So I didn't have much leaverage when it comes to warranty. I did pressure tests and they match the dyno sheet sent with the trans, give or take 5psi per gear and there is hardly any "dust" in the pan. Anyway...based on the clean fluid I assume the innards are intact and because they didn't mod the valvebody I assume the kit will install without incident.
This is an ART Carr trans. It won't hold manual low. I called them and they said they don't modify the valvebody itself but they do put their own kit in it. I asked why it won't hold L1 and they gave me some lame answer about "it's a TV controlled trans". It only has 5K miles on it. Thing is I bought it 2 years ago but only installed it 6 mos ago. So I didn't have much leaverage when it comes to warranty. I did pressure tests and they match the dyno sheet sent with the trans, give or take 5psi per gear and there is hardly any "dust" in the pan. Anyway...based on the clean fluid I assume the innards are intact and because they didn't mod the valvebody I assume the kit will install without incident.
Nastee the transgo kit won't let you hold 1st no matter what they say. I've aleady been down this road. The only way to get it to hold 1st is with a manual valve body. You will have to upshift and downshift all gears manually, nothing will be left of the automatic function. Not bad if you don't mind playing with the shifter. You can also get the manual bodys with hydrolic trans brakes
ive had similar findings. im at the point that i may enjoy banging away with a nice b and m shifter. at the track it just kills me when i cant run out first gear. i dont know for sure but i has to cost at least a quarter or half a second in the quarter mile and on the streat when beating on it , it would be nice to hang at 6000 for a while , then bang second. my research has shown that the lowest profile shifter is the b and m for a mid 80's camaro or firebird console. the truth is that i wont do it until forced to when the tranny needs to be redone.
ive had similar findings. im at the point that i may enjoy banging away with a nice b and m shifter. at the track it just kills me when i cant run out first gear. i dont know for sure but i has to cost at least a quarter or half a second in the quarter mile and on the streat when beating on it , it would be nice to hang at 6000 for a while , then bang second. my research has shown that the lowest profile shifter is the b and m for a mid 80's camaro or firebird console. the truth is that i wont do it until forced to when the tranny needs to be redone.
It's not in the shifter, I have a B&M in mine now. It's the valving in the valve body that makes it do the 1-2 shift. To my knoledge there is no way to hold 1st short of a manual valve body. If anyone knows any other way I would love to hear it
Nastee the transgo kit won't let you hold 1st no matter what they say. I've aleady been down this road. The only way to get it to hold 1st is with a manual valve body. You will have to upshift and downshift all gears manually, nothing will be left of the automatic function. Not bad if you don't mind playing with the shifter. You can also get the manual bodys with hydrolic trans brakes
Now I'm really confused. The 700r4 in my Vette was built by a local shop and I can hold 1,2 or 3rd until the motor blows up. He put a TRANSGO kit in it when he built it. That's been a few years ago and its still going strong. It definitely is not a manual valvebody. And I definitely do not want a manual valvebody.
I don't understand why they would tout holding 1,2 and 3rd to any rpm as the big feature of their kit if it's not possible to do it. I'll have to look into this further.
Last edited by nastee383; Nov 9, 2006 at 08:38 PM.
ive had similar findings. im at the point that i may enjoy banging away with a nice b and m shifter. at the track it just kills me when i cant run out first gear. i dont know for sure but i has to cost at least a quarter or half a second in the quarter mile and on the streat when beating on it , it would be nice to hang at 6000 for a while , then bang second. my research has shown that the lowest profile shifter is the b and m for a mid 80's camaro or firebird console. the truth is that i wont do it until forced to when the tranny needs to be redone.
The trans in question is not in my Vette but in my 94 S15 Jimmy 383 V8 swap. Its running 8flat @ 86 in the eighth shifting out of 1st at about 4000rpm so I'm pretty much running the whole eighth in 2nd gear. I feel like you that I could probably get another .5 or so if the trans would allow me to manual shift from 1st.
I DO NOT want a manual valvebody especially with the B&M rachet shifter I have installed. I do alot of driving both of my hotrods. That's too much work for an old man like me.
let me know how this turns out. I want to do the same to my 82.
I will definitely post the results. I ordered a 700r4 overhaul manual and a 700r4/4l60 overhaul video. I'll have plenty of time to look at them while I recuperate from total hip replacement surgery scheduled for Monday. When I'm able I plan to get into the trans a bit.