rust reformer/convert frame paint
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 768
Likes: 3
From: Chicago Burbs IL
rust reformer/convert frame paint
After a fair investigation into the market of rust reformers, I have come accross Rust-Oleum's High Performance V2100 System Rust Reformer (aerosol). Their tech. support tells me it is not phosphoric acid based, and can be applied over light rusted and clean metal. BTW, it was named "product of the year" by Plant Engineering in 2005. I'm impressed! I realize we are not maintaining power plants here, but you must admit it is a selling point. It also can be top coated with any oil based or two part paints. I am also impressed by the fact it is produced by a large corporation in a fairly large market space compared to the niche automotive and pricey resto-market. Anybody ever consider or use this stuff?
I feel that the Eastwood and POR products are a tad pricey at $40 a quart. Rust conversion or reformation is an interesting alternative to heavy prep work (grinding...etc). This is attractive to me since I am at a body-on frame and engine compartment refresh. Here's a pic showing the degree of surface rust remaining after a extensive degreasing clean-up effort. The photo also highlights the fact that the dust shield were definately in place at time of the engine compartment black-out step (1965 anyhow).
Thanks,
Jim
I feel that the Eastwood and POR products are a tad pricey at $40 a quart. Rust conversion or reformation is an interesting alternative to heavy prep work (grinding...etc). This is attractive to me since I am at a body-on frame and engine compartment refresh. Here's a pic showing the degree of surface rust remaining after a extensive degreasing clean-up effort. The photo also highlights the fact that the dust shield were definately in place at time of the engine compartment black-out step (1965 anyhow).
Thanks,
Jim
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 192
Likes: 0
From: Fort Lauderdale FL
go for it
I don't have experience with this rust conversion product but do with several others. If you frame is mainly as shown in the picture, then this is the way to go, treat it, and top coat/touch-up as needed, either way you are doing some good.
The only true method to address all rust is a body off resto, but even then, I would still use some of these rust conversion products on all of the metal before final top coat.
Good luck
I don't have experience with this rust conversion product but do with several others. If you frame is mainly as shown in the picture, then this is the way to go, treat it, and top coat/touch-up as needed, either way you are doing some good.
The only true method to address all rust is a body off resto, but even then, I would still use some of these rust conversion products on all of the metal before final top coat.
Good luck
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 768
Likes: 3
From: Chicago Burbs IL
Care to comment further...
What "others" have you used and can you elaborate.....
Thanks
Thanks
Originally Posted by 75coupered
go for it
I don't have experience with this rust conversion product but do with several others. If you frame is mainly as shown in the picture, then this is the way to go, treat it, and top coat/touch-up as needed, either way you are doing some good.
The only true method to address all rust is a body off resto, but even then, I would still use some of these rust conversion products on all of the metal before final top coat.
Good luck
I don't have experience with this rust conversion product but do with several others. If you frame is mainly as shown in the picture, then this is the way to go, treat it, and top coat/touch-up as needed, either way you are doing some good.
The only true method to address all rust is a body off resto, but even then, I would still use some of these rust conversion products on all of the metal before final top coat.
Good luck
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 192
Likes: 0
From: Fort Lauderdale FL
Originally Posted by Talisman51
What "others" have you used and can you elaborate.....
Thanks
Thanks
The other is an Eastwood product called Oxisolv, this product is great, is reusable and actually disolves the rust, not convert, and leaves a zinc phosphate coating. Awesome stuff, non-toxic bio friendly and man does it work. Great for soaking bolts screws etc and pulling them out looking like new with a dark gray appearance like new. Downside of the product is that it needs to be washed off to neutralize it, as well as a primer coat but other than that, this is my choice, used it on and inside my frame and for all hardware. It's about $28/gal.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 768
Likes: 3
From: Chicago Burbs IL
rustin...
Originally Posted by 75coupered
Sorry... The two that I have found to have worked very well over the long haul have been Permatex Rust Destroyer/Converter, easy single application spray, good for bare metal and say a final 'primer' coat before paint, commonly available at most parts stores.
The other is an Eastwood product called Oxisolv, this product is great, is reusable and actually disolves the rust, not convert, and leaves a zinc phosphate coating. Awesome stuff, non-toxic bio friendly and man does it work. Great for soaking bolts screws etc and pulling them out looking like new with a dark gray appearance like new. Downside of the product is that it needs to be washed off to neutralize it, as well as a primer coat but other than that, this is my choice, used it on and inside my frame and for all hardware. It's about $28/gal.
The other is an Eastwood product called Oxisolv, this product is great, is reusable and actually disolves the rust, not convert, and leaves a zinc phosphate coating. Awesome stuff, non-toxic bio friendly and man does it work. Great for soaking bolts screws etc and pulling them out looking like new with a dark gray appearance like new. Downside of the product is that it needs to be washed off to neutralize it, as well as a primer coat but other than that, this is my choice, used it on and inside my frame and for all hardware. It's about $28/gal.
Thanks
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 192
Likes: 0
From: Fort Lauderdale FL
Originally Posted by Talisman51
Is Oxisolv phosphoric acid based? If so sound like PORs Metal Ready which I have used in the past. Also leaves a etched zinc phosphate coat for superior adhesion. From what I gather, the acid stuff can cause hydrogen embrittlement which as it sounds is not something you want to risk on critical components. Apparently, embrittlement is a function of exposure time and strengh of the acid.
Thanks
Thanks
Very happy with the speed, ease of use, non toxicity and results of the product so far. Best I've used. Just keep it wet long enough to work, between 1/2-1 hour and then wash down with water and detergent. You can wipe off the excess with lacquer thinner as well. After that you can prime and paint. It will not hurt the paint or body, but chrome and aluminum trim may be discolored so mask those areas well before use.
Hope that helps some
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,231
Likes: 7
From: Fort Pierce Florida
I used Rust Bullet recently (brushed on) and topped it with a chassis black. Seemed to work pretty well on a friend's car, but no long term information yet. Other then that the POR-15 has been my favorite solution even over powdercoating.
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Advanced
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 91
Likes: 6
This is a great thread!
do y’all have any recommendations for crust converter I should use on the frame of my 1970?
it is not on off frame restoration at all, and there is only very slight surface/discoloration, but I want to treat it and paint it so that it stays that way.
thanks!
do y’all have any recommendations for crust converter I should use on the frame of my 1970?
it is not on off frame restoration at all, and there is only very slight surface/discoloration, but I want to treat it and paint it so that it stays that way.
thanks!
Old Fart Pilot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,920
Likes: 990
From: Spokane, WA
This thread has 20 year old information!! There's probably different stuff, possibly better, on the market now.
I used the POR-15 system on my 71's frame and am pleased with the results. I had the body off so I had full access to all sides but I'm not sure how much good it'd do with only coating the easily reached sections - I guess something is better than nothing.
I also sprayed Eastwood's Internal Frame Coating into all interior frame spaces using the supplied spray tips on hoses.
Good Luck
I used the POR-15 system on my 71's frame and am pleased with the results. I had the body off so I had full access to all sides but I'm not sure how much good it'd do with only coating the easily reached sections - I guess something is better than nothing.
I also sprayed Eastwood's Internal Frame Coating into all interior frame spaces using the supplied spray tips on hoses.
Good Luck
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 91
Likes: 6
This thread has 20 year old information!! There's probably different stuff, possibly better, on the market now.
I used the POR-15 system on my 71's frame and am pleased with the results. I had the body off so I had full access to all sides but I'm not sure how much good it'd do with only coating the easily reached sections - I guess something is better than nothing.
I also sprayed Eastwood's Internal Frame Coating into all interior frame spaces using the supplied spray tips on hoses.
Good Luck
I used the POR-15 system on my 71's frame and am pleased with the results. I had the body off so I had full access to all sides but I'm not sure how much good it'd do with only coating the easily reached sections - I guess something is better than nothing.
I also sprayed Eastwood's Internal Frame Coating into all interior frame spaces using the supplied spray tips on hoses.
Good Luck
