HELP! Parking Brake install issues!!!
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Pro
Joined: May 2006
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From: Kernersville North Carolina
HELP! Parking Brake install issues!!!
Can someone help?!
1968
I installed my new SS parking brakes but now can't get the new rotor on. At first I thought I had the wrong rotor, but niether will work. That's ?#2, which rotor is front and rear? I'm assuming the # ending 01 is front and #02 is rear. 1 has 7 holes and the other just 5 (for the studs.).
The parking brake is fully retracted and the cable is not yet hooked up. Also, I left some old parts in as I could not get them out...is it required to remove the entire wheel assembly to do this job?
Thanks!
1968
I installed my new SS parking brakes but now can't get the new rotor on. At first I thought I had the wrong rotor, but niether will work. That's ?#2, which rotor is front and rear? I'm assuming the # ending 01 is front and #02 is rear. 1 has 7 holes and the other just 5 (for the studs.).
The parking brake is fully retracted and the cable is not yet hooked up. Also, I left some old parts in as I could not get them out...is it required to remove the entire wheel assembly to do this job?
Thanks!
Last edited by bwellisley; Nov 10, 2006 at 09:24 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2006
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From: Kernersville North Carolina
found my paperwork...the rear rotor has the 7 holes.
it does not install the ss parking brake pads hang-up on the rotor, but i can't seem to get them any tighter in the circumference....?
it does not install the ss parking brake pads hang-up on the rotor, but i can't seem to get them any tighter in the circumference....?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2006
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From: Kernersville North Carolina
my AIM does not have an exploded view of the parking brake assy...does anyone have this? i put it back together as i took it apart, but would like to double check...thanks!
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 148
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From: Ohio
I've experienced the same problem with the SS parking brake shoes. They don't seem to be made the same as the originals. ( Imagine that with reproduction parts !) You'll have to do some sanding on the shoes or replace them with the original steel from a quality vendor.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
Hmm, ,mine went in with no problem at all, you sure you have the shoes on the post bolt all the way and the adjuster fully retracted? I did have the adjuster machined down about .080 to give a bit more retraction, you may have to do the same.
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From: Kernersville North Carolina
yes. what parts did you grind down and how?
on a good note, i re-attempted to route the main rear brake line through the frame and was SUCESSFUL! with a little persuation anyways
so, now all i need to do is fill the lines with blood to bring the brakes alive! ah-hahaha
what is the best brake fluid to use? i have standard stainless steel brakes with braided lines to the calipers.
thanks! time to get some sleep! 2 nights in a row past 2:30am!
on a good note, i re-attempted to route the main rear brake line through the frame and was SUCESSFUL! with a little persuation anyways
so, now all i need to do is fill the lines with blood to bring the brakes alive! ah-hahaha
what is the best brake fluid to use? i have standard stainless steel brakes with braided lines to the calipers.
thanks! time to get some sleep! 2 nights in a row past 2:30am!
Thread Starter
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From: Kernersville North Carolina
thanks, but what's the reasoning?
3 and 4 absorb water and can lead to lower boiling points, but they also ruin paint.
5 doesn't ruin paint, and it has a constant higher boiling point because it doesn't absorb water, but because of that if water gets in it can pocket and rust-out the brakes
being that mine will not be a daily driver, thus no rain, i would lean towards 5...?
however, none of the info i found supports which has the least amount of compression/expansion. due to the water issue i would say maybe 5 has the least...?
thanks!
3 and 4 absorb water and can lead to lower boiling points, but they also ruin paint.
5 doesn't ruin paint, and it has a constant higher boiling point because it doesn't absorb water, but because of that if water gets in it can pocket and rust-out the brakes
being that mine will not be a daily driver, thus no rain, i would lean towards 5...?
however, none of the info i found supports which has the least amount of compression/expansion. due to the water issue i would say maybe 5 has the least...?
thanks!
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Race Director
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 11,874
Likes: 263
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by bwellisley
thanks, but what's the reasoning?
3 and 4 absorb water and can lead to lower boiling points, but they also ruin paint.
5 doesn't ruin paint, and it has a constant higher boiling point because it doesn't absorb water, but because of that if water gets in it can pocket and rust-out the brakes
being that mine will not be a daily driver, thus no rain, i would lean towards 5...?
however, none of the info i found supports which has the least amount of compression/expansion. due to the water issue i would say maybe 5 has the least...?
thanks!
3 and 4 absorb water and can lead to lower boiling points, but they also ruin paint.
5 doesn't ruin paint, and it has a constant higher boiling point because it doesn't absorb water, but because of that if water gets in it can pocket and rust-out the brakes
being that mine will not be a daily driver, thus no rain, i would lean towards 5...?
however, none of the info i found supports which has the least amount of compression/expansion. due to the water issue i would say maybe 5 has the least...?
thanks!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
I use dot 5 exclusively because of the moisture issue you mentioned, had that bite me once and I ended up spread eagle on the back of a pontiac, but thats another story.
Boil the dot5 before installing, that gets the bubbles out. Flush the lines all out and blow them clean, then fill and bleed.
The parts I had groung down was on the adjuster, the nut that the adjuster bolt threads into, that lets the ebrake compress a bit more and provides some extra clearance but does not interfere with adjustment
Boil the dot5 before installing, that gets the bubbles out. Flush the lines all out and blow them clean, then fill and bleed.
The parts I had groung down was on the adjuster, the nut that the adjuster bolt threads into, that lets the ebrake compress a bit more and provides some extra clearance but does not interfere with adjustment
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2006
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From: Kernersville North Carolina
thanks...anymore?
again this is a bone dry, brand new, system. i installed a new master cyl, ss lines and calipers. the only things left over from previous are the front 2 dist blocks, rears are new.
again this is a bone dry, brand new, system. i installed a new master cyl, ss lines and calipers. the only things left over from previous are the front 2 dist blocks, rears are new.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,429
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From: Kingston Ontario
Either of my rotors fit the back of the car. I thought that was funny since there is a difference. Check out your old parts and try to see whats different other than the worn out pads.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 10,643
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From: Foxfield CO 1970 Convertible
Originally Posted by SIXFOOTER
Don't grind the pads, just the adjusters
I would bet that your adjusters are extended. They can be adjusted completely inward and the brake shoes will miss the rotor by quite a bit...
Premium Supporting Vendor
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 4,312
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From: Clearwater FL
The rear rotors have the extra hole for the PB adjustments.
SS PB shoes are arched wrong. You have to either sand the pad down or the pad and the modify the adjuster slots. For this reason, we don't use or sell the SS shoes.
SS PB shoes are arched wrong. You have to either sand the pad down or the pad and the modify the adjuster slots. For this reason, we don't use or sell the SS shoes.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2006
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From: Kernersville North Carolina
i bought the new ss parking brake kit but the pads are duralast from autozone. the rotors are new also from virginia vettes.
i fully turned down the adjustment for the adjuster so it was fully retracted. 1 side would go in, but the other had a slight interference. everything seems to match, except understanding that i have full/new pads.
what should i use for sanding down the pads?
i fully turned down the adjustment for the adjuster so it was fully retracted. 1 side would go in, but the other had a slight interference. everything seems to match, except understanding that i have full/new pads.
what should i use for sanding down the pads?
Premium Supporting Vendor
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 4,312
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From: Clearwater FL
It doesn't matter where you buy the SS pads from. 1 guy makes them and supplies everyone else. We told him about the issue but nothing was ever changed so we stopped using them. This was over 6 yrs ago. You'll have to sand it down with fine sandpaper. It's a pain.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,438
Likes: 2
From: Melrose Florida
Originally Posted by Van Steel
The rear rotors have the extra hole for the PB adjustments.
SS PB shoes are arched wrong. You have to either sand the pad down or the pad and the modify the adjuster slots. For this reason, we don't use or sell the SS shoes.
SS PB shoes are arched wrong. You have to either sand the pad down or the pad and the modify the adjuster slots. For this reason, we don't use or sell the SS shoes.
I have heard that SS shoes are a problem, don't know about steel replacements...I just found some excellent used shoes. With the SS hardware retratcted all the way, the rotor fit on fine, there was even room for some outward adjustment on the adjuster.
It is recommended to pull the spindle for working on the p-brake, but not absolutely necessary.
It doesn't sound right to have left some of the old hardware in there, the only thing is one of the shoe "nails" on each side must be reused if you don't pull the spindle, everything else must go.
Steve