Rear Crossmember Install
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,608
Likes: 3
From: TEXAS - you mean there are other states?
Rear Crossmember Install
I am having difficulty 'seating' the rear crossmember brace to the frame. It seems that the bushings will not seat flush. There is a gap as seen in photo below.
Also - which way does the crossmember get installed. It does look symetrical. And the AIM does not indicate.
Last - when I re-installed the bushings, I did not use a press and I see small cracks or 'tears' where the embedded metal 'shocked' its way to the surface and retracted. Any thoughts? FYI - Anyway - when they powder coated the frame, they very lightly sandblasted the bushings. before removing them. I chose not to replace the bushings right now. Maybe when I rebuild the third member.
Also - which way does the crossmember get installed. It does look symetrical. And the AIM does not indicate.
Last - when I re-installed the bushings, I did not use a press and I see small cracks or 'tears' where the embedded metal 'shocked' its way to the surface and retracted. Any thoughts? FYI - Anyway - when they powder coated the frame, they very lightly sandblasted the bushings. before removing them. I chose not to replace the bushings right now. Maybe when I rebuild the third member.
Last edited by kaiserbud; Nov 18, 2006 at 10:04 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,408
Likes: 792
From: Redondo Beach, California
On my 68, the original bushings did mate flush to the frame. I also was very concerned that the repro bushings did not allow a flush fit. Actually, I did symetrically grind down the bell socket on the frame to allow more of a flush fit. I was able to get a closer fit. However, fortunately, I have another Corvette, a 1970. It's stock,unmolested, and I went and looked at it and the bushings did not fit flush to the frame either. Discussing the problem, on this forum, people said that the bushings do not have to fit flush. So, I think the idea is to mate it up as close as possible and that will work.
Last edited by 68/70Vette; Nov 11, 2006 at 09:38 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,608
Likes: 3
From: TEXAS - you mean there are other states?
Thanks. At first, my response was going to be that that would be alot of stress on the bolts, but actually, I would assume that the stress is spread over a larger area due to the fit of the bushing over the frame protrusion. ??? I will try to find your post you mentioned
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,608
Likes: 3
From: TEXAS - you mean there are other states?
I understand you can use a rubber lubricant called P80, as well as just water - or soap and water to assist in getting the lubrication necessary.
Can anyone comment on which way (if required) to install the crossmember.
Can anyone comment on which way (if required) to install the crossmember.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 851
Likes: 10
From: Palm City, FL
Originally Posted by kaiserbud
I understand you can use a rubber lubricant called P80, as well as just water - or soap and water to assist in getting the lubrication necessary.
Can anyone comment on which way (if required) to install the crossmember.
Can anyone comment on which way (if required) to install the crossmember.
Mine did not sit flush when I took it off and it's not when I put it back on... I think it should be fine as long as it's up there good and tight. I used a little grease to aid.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,408
Likes: 792
From: Redondo Beach, California
Looking into the "sockets" of your bushings, it appears you still have a film of rubber in there. I removed this film of rubber on mine. This gives metal to metal contact which should be ok since the surfaces are tightly pressed togeth by the supporting bolt. This should allow a closer (deeper) fit.
In that one photo, is that a tear in the edge of the new bushing?
In that one photo, is that a tear in the edge of the new bushing?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,608
Likes: 3
From: TEXAS - you mean there are other states?
I agree on replacing the bushings in the same place, but the powder coaters removed them and I do not have that opportunity to replace in the same sides. But my inquiry was for the crossmember bar itself - it seems like it can be installed either way.
Yes - that is a tear and just below it is a small thin missing spot of rubber. If I understand you correctly, the thin film of rubber on the inside of the depression is supposed to be there.
Yes - that is a tear and just below it is a small thin missing spot of rubber. If I understand you correctly, the thin film of rubber on the inside of the depression is supposed to be there.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,408
Likes: 792
From: Redondo Beach, California
Originally Posted by kaiserbud
I
Yes - that is a tear and just below it is a small thin missing spot of rubber. If I understand you correctly, the thin film of rubber on the inside of the depression is supposed to be there.
Yes - that is a tear and just below it is a small thin missing spot of rubber. If I understand you correctly, the thin film of rubber on the inside of the depression is supposed to be there.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 7,098
Likes: 378
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
I really don't know what will work for u now. But to share i coated mine with silicone grease and had the differential shop press out the old rubber then press in the new pieces. I do recall they said getting the old rubber out was a big pain. BTW they coated the x-member with rattle can enamel paint too so it made my life very easy here. Kind'a got figured in with the rear gear change and diff rebuild.
Yea, give your local diff shop a call. It's always good to find a diff shop u can work with that u can trust thier work and this would be inexpensive way to find this out.
Hope this helps and good luck.
cardo0
Yea, give your local diff shop a call. It's always good to find a diff shop u can work with that u can trust thier work and this would be inexpensive way to find this out.
Hope this helps and good luck.
cardo0
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,608
Likes: 3
From: TEXAS - you mean there are other states?
Thanks Cardo - I think (HA - Hope) I have the bushings handled - I plan on doing that tomorrow,but my concern is how the actual crossmember installs - it seems symetrical, so if no input on that issue - she's goin' in that way !!!!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,608
Likes: 3
From: TEXAS - you mean there are other states?
Update: I used soap/water to assist in lubing up the bushings and did not get much farther. I did install it and tightened 'er up. I could not get the parts to mate up all the way and my micrometer shows I still have .740" on each end of the crossmember. This distance is measured on the front side of the crossmember and vertically from the top of the crossmember to the bottom of the metal 'shroud' on the frame.
I still feel these should mate closer, as I am sure this would have affect on how high or crooked the body sits.
Can anyone offer dimensions from their properly assembled or original vehicle? Also - regarding which way the crossmember bolts in, I believe the crossmember is symetrical and can be installed either way.
Once the car is assembled (with wieight on it), I may venture to remove the 2 bolts that go into the bushing and insert a threaded rod; then get a large washer and try to 'walk' that washer up the threaded rod (by using a nut) to push the crossmember higher into place.
I still feel these should mate closer, as I am sure this would have affect on how high or crooked the body sits.
Can anyone offer dimensions from their properly assembled or original vehicle? Also - regarding which way the crossmember bolts in, I believe the crossmember is symetrical and can be installed either way.
Once the car is assembled (with wieight on it), I may venture to remove the 2 bolts that go into the bushing and insert a threaded rod; then get a large washer and try to 'walk' that washer up the threaded rod (by using a nut) to push the crossmember higher into place.
Last edited by kaiserbud; Nov 23, 2006 at 01:17 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
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the thin film is supposed to be there, it's a result from the mold where the metal cup is fused to the curing rubber.
Just lube the bushing with something like light machine oil or even dishwashing soap (pure without water) and it should slide back in place. Have you tried jacking up the rear of the car w/ the jack under the crossmember?
Just lube the bushing with something like light machine oil or even dishwashing soap (pure without water) and it should slide back in place. Have you tried jacking up the rear of the car w/ the jack under the crossmember?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,608
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From: TEXAS - you mean there are other states?
Twin - I agree on the rubber lining on the inside. And I am unable to jack the car up - as it is bare frame and has no weight. I may have to wait till I get more on the chassis.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,608
Likes: 3
From: TEXAS - you mean there are other states?
TT - thanks - I was going to leave it until after the body goes on - but thing are sooo much more difficult then. I pulled the crossmember off and started from scratch. I did the soap as you suggested, buyt no more progress (0.75" clr.). So - I figured the paint had been flowed out and was too thick in this area. I kinda figured what you suggested, I just did not want to remove the powder.
ok.......... will return
ok.......... will return
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 7,186
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From: detroit area
why dont you heat up the rubber with a propane torch and then try to install while the rubber is warm..... ....you really need 2 people to do the job..... since you need that brace to go up straight and not twist.... 1 person tightening at the same time.....
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