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This's probably been covered a million times here so pardon me if this sounds like a broken record! I've just applied POR 15 to my bare/blasted trailing arms & the stuff goes on great. My question is, since this stuff will turn grey over time, is it OK to topcoat this stuff with a good Krylon semi-gloss black paint? And, how long should I wait before applying the top coat? Thanks guys!!
Krylon or rustoleum should work . Per mfg insruction the topcoat should be applied when the POR-15 is still tacky check w/Finger Drag, 4-12 Hours typically. I would recommed thay you follow the application instuctions that came with the POR-15 or check their website. If the POR-15 is fully cured the surface must be scuffed/de-glossed before topcoat is applied.
I foam brushed on the POR-15 chassis black on my frame by my gas tank and was happy with the result.
My question is, since this stuff will turn grey over time, is it OK to topcoat this stuff with a good Krylon semi-gloss black paint? And, how long should I wait before applying the top coat? Thanks guys!!
I've used POR for years, and always understood that POR will only discolor if in prologed exposure to UV..sunlight. Any frame/suspension parts shouldnt fade. As far as topcoating, I have always sprayed it with an automotive primer (Rustoleum, etc) when barely tacky. If you spray it too early, the primer coat will develop "spider web" cracks, which can pretty much be covered with additional coats of primer. You can then topcoat over the primed surface. POR also makes a product called Tie-Coat, a sandable primer that is designed to bond to cured POR. I've used it and it really works great! I swear by POR products, started using it almost 10 yrs ago before most folks had ever heard of it. Hope this helps.
Rob
Last edited by MakoShark72; Nov 12, 2006 at 09:07 PM.
I've used POR for years, and always understood that POR will only discolor if in prologed exposure to UV..sunlight. Any frame/suspension parts shouldnt fade. As far as topcoating, I have always sprayed it with an automotive primer (Rustoleum, etc) when barely tacky. If you spray it too early, the primer coat will develop "spider web" cracks, which can pretty much be covered with additional coats of primer. You can then topcoat over the primed surface. POR also makes a product called Tie-Coat, a sandable primer that is designed to bond to cured POR. I've used it and it really works great! I swear by POR products, started using it almost 10 yrs ago before most folks had ever heard of it. Hope this helps.
Rob
OK, so let me get this straight; let the POR 15 'almost' completely cure, then spray with primer & then paint again with the final (semi gloss black) top coat. Correct me if I'm wrong because I want to get this right the 1st time!
POR 15 SELLS ETCHING PRIMER TO GO OVER DRY POR 15. IT COMES IN SPRAY CAN and you can top coat after 30 minutes. It works great. Next time apply top coat when por 15 is tacky.
OK, so let me get this straight; let the POR 15 'almost' completely cure, then spray with primer & then paint again with the final (semi gloss black) top coat. Correct me if I'm wrong because I want to get this right the 1st time!
Thats about it. Not sure why you'd topcoat anything under the car, likely it wont ever fade (though alot of folks do it) POR dries to an impervious, rock hard, self leveling, really nice finish. Used to be able to get POR in semi gloss black anyway. Dont get any on you or you'll wear it til your skin sheds!! Ruins clothing, but you can scrape it off garage floor with razor blade. POR dries to such a nice finish that IMHO I think topcoating suspension/frame parts is a waste of time. My 2 pennies worth anyway
Thats about it. Not sure why you'd topcoat anything under the car, likely it wont ever fade (though alot of folks do it) POR dries to an impervious, rock hard, self leveling, really nice finish. Used to be able to get POR in semi gloss black anyway. Dont get any on you or you'll wear it til your skin sheds!! Ruins clothing, but you can scrape it off garage floor with razor blade. POR dries to such a nice finish that IMHO I think topcoating suspension/frame parts is a waste of time. My 2 pennies worth anyway
I'd already applied the POR 15 to the trailing arms earlier this afternoon. It really does smooth out & looks great. Really goes on thick as well.... Yes, I'm well aware of the steps involving this $$ paint! Wearing latex gloves and being very careful is a must! I'm going to take your word & not topcoat the trailing arms; I just don't want them to turn grey after months go by. The car stays in a garage but certain sections of the trailing arms actually will get UV on them while outside. Then I'll have striped trailing arms; definitely not how they are supposed to look!
I'm going to take your word & not topcoat the trailing arms; I just don't want them to turn grey after months go by. The car stays in a garage but certain sections of the trailing arms actually will get UV on them while outside. Then I'll have striped trailing arms; definitely not how they are supposed to look!
Well, thats what I would do...Worst case, I suppose, is months or yrs down the road you can rough them up an hit 'em with some Krylon, or use the POR Tie Coat primer. I'd be surprised if they ever discolor.
I spoke with a POR-15 rep about the necessity of a top-coat before applying the gloss black POR to my frame. He suggested leaving it as is, because it is the UV light that makes it discolor and very little will reach a covered frame. I was skeptical of the POR product, but was more than satisfied with the result and used no topcoat. Just be sure you follow their directions and clean everything to be painted followed by an application of Metal Ready.