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Thought I'd throw this one out there, maybe a little premature, but anyways....'72 350/auto.
Left rear wheel started to "wobble" slightly (noticeable). Visibly confirmed this while driving. Probably wobbles about, oh maybe half inch to inch.. Anyway, first thought (hoped) it was a bent rim. Had rim checked, was OK. Now I THINK I'm hearing some tell-tale bearing noise while driving?? With car jacked, I tried to detect some play in the wheel/hub assembly, but didnt feel any (park brake off, auto tranny in N). Wheel or bearing area IS NOT HOT. No obvious external damage or anything bent. Plan to tear into it in the next few days, maybe today.
Just thought I'd ask what to look for, or if I'm missing something more obvious. Car sat for many years. I just started driving it some this week.
Thought I'd throw this one out there, maybe a little premature, but anyways....'72 350/auto.
Left rear wheel started to "wobble" slightly (noticeable). Visibly confirmed this while driving. Probably wobbles about, oh maybe half inch to inch.. Anyway, first thought (hoped) it was a bent rim. Had rim checked, was OK. Now I THINK I'm hearing some tell-tale bearing noise while driving?? With car jacked, I tried to detect some play in the wheel/hub assembly, but didnt feel any (park brake off, auto tranny in N). Wheel or bearing area IS NOT HOT. No obvious external damage or anything bent. Plan to tear into it in the next few days, maybe today.
Just thought I'd ask what to look for, or if I'm missing something more obvious. Car sat for many years. I just started driving it some this week.
You may need to jack up the trailing arm off the ground to check for wobble, since letting the suspension become fully unloaded may be putting enough tension on the back side of the spindle to elminate the play.
I think thats it. Put the car on a rack, removed tire, started car and put in drive. Hub/rotor assembly is definitely wobbling. Wheel looks like it had a pretty tough encounter with something, so the spindle/hub took the brunt, it appears.
Is this a PITA to remove/replace, assuming thats the problem?? I dont have my Assembly Manual yet, just Haynes.
I think thats it. Put the car on a rack, removed tire, started car and put in drive. Hub/rotor assembly is definitely wobbling. Wheel looks like it had a pretty tough encounter with something, so the spindle/hub took the brunt, it appears.
Is this a PITA to remove/replace, assuming thats the problem?? I dont have my Assembly Manual yet, just Haynes.
Thanks guys,
Rob
When I did my rear wheel bearings I had to disassemble all that stuff. Yes it is a PITA.
However, since you are doing it... I would suggest replacing parts that wear like the wheel bearings etc, because you dont know what else might be damaged... plus it makes sense to do it while your in there. And do both sides while your at it.
I would suggest replacing parts that wear like the wheel bearings etc, because you dont know what else might be damaged...
Yea, had planned to do all that I can while its apart. Are there any "alignment" type issues involved, once its back together? Also, any special tools required (above and beyond normal shop wrenches and sockets, etc)??
Yea, had planned to do all that I can while its apart. Are there any "alignment" type issues involved, once its back together? Also, any special tools required (above and beyond normal shop wrenches and sockets, etc)??
Thanks,
Rob
Hmm... I'm not 100% about alignment issues because I need to get an alignment done and I happened to get it done right after I did the rear wheel bearings. I think as long as you don't mess with the training arms or strut rods while your doing this work the alignment should be fine. That is assuming the alignment is right in the first place. But since the spindle was likely bent by whacking a curb or something... I think an alignment job after you do the bearings and spindle is is order.
Special tools... yea. Unless you want to damage the spindles when taking the bearings off or putting them on, I would bring them to a shop with a press to remove and install. Other than that, I think your ok... you might want to get something to measure the play in the wheel so you know how tight to make the nut that hold the sprindle on... you dont want it loose were you can feel play when you move the tire in and out... but you dont want it too tight either where you are crushing the bearings.
Lots of special tools, disassembly, assembly, measure, disassembly, shim with selective spacers, assembly, etc. Reman assemblies are about $400 exchange. I'm one who does everything on my car myself including rear bearings....ONCE. When the other side started to go I pulled the complete trailing arm assembly out and took it to a local Corvette shop and had it gone through completely. My opinion it's not worth hassle if you're not setup with the right tools.
My opinion it's not worth hassle if you're not setup with the right tools.
Dont have to tell me TWICE!!! Taking it in today! Like I told the Corvette shop here, I'll fly jets..YOU replace my spindle! Some things its worth paying somebody else to do!!!
I'm not sure what the correct procedure is to check for a bent rear spindle; however, this is how I might tackle it.
Jack the car up and disconnect the half shaft. That will allow the tire to spin with minimal resistance. If it wobbles, then remove the tire and see if the spindle wobbles. I would think if the tire is wobbling an inch you should see the spindle wobble if its bent.
Working on the trailing arms does require more tools than sockets, wrenchs, and a hammer. There are dozens of threads covering how to do it. There is not a lot of savings in doing them yourself if you have to dish out $200+ for the tools. On the other hand if you do yourself, it pays for the tools.
I would get it up in the air and see if there are any obvious signs first. Then remoive the 1/2 shaft and that will leave you with the spindle separate and also let you check the endplay in the side yoke.