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Replacing heater core - Do I need gasket kit?

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Old Nov 17, 2006 | 03:12 PM
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Default Replacing heater core - Do I need gasket kit?

Hey, all.

While I have my dash completely removed, I'm going to swap out the leaking heater core as suggested. Do I honestly need to order the "heater gasket kit" in order to successfully complete this job?

Thanks,
Q
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Old Nov 17, 2006 | 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Q's 68
Hey, all.

While I have my dash completely removed, I'm going to swap out the leaking heater core as suggested. Do I honestly need to order the "heater gasket kit" in order to successfully complete this job?

Thanks,
Q
Mine were in reuseable condition...

I just took the old core out and replaced it with a new one reusing all of the other old parts.

I know other will disagree, but it worked fine for me.
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Old Nov 17, 2006 | 04:40 PM
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You've come this far you might as well go all the way and install new seals / gaskets.
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Old Nov 17, 2006 | 06:51 PM
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Old Nov 17, 2006 | 07:13 PM
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Do it, you won't be sorry.
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Old Nov 18, 2006 | 12:52 AM
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The spray foam in a can worked great on mine from up under
the car. Someone before me replaced the core and didn't use a
foam gasket where the hoses attach to the core.
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Old Nov 18, 2006 | 02:21 AM
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Take pictures and show us the job ---- step by step !!
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Old Nov 18, 2006 | 12:39 PM
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The gasket kit is cheap and the old ones are probably original. Since it's such a big job, I'd replace everything I reasonably could while it's apart.
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Old Nov 18, 2006 | 12:58 PM
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A suggestion-Take the new core to a radiator shop and have the tubes resoldered and more material added where they enter the core body.
Bought mine from Corvette Central, and it didn't take much to tweak one of the tubes to where it leaked. Of course I found this out after I installed it(water running out the bottom of the heater case)
Fortunately there no carpeting or dash yet!
Cost about $30 for resoldering and pressure check
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 12:17 PM
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You might want to even take it a step further and replace the seals on the air box and blend door. These cars don't pass a lot of air anyway and it helps to have everything fresh and tight. You can buy the seal kits for not too much. As I recall you will have to drill out a few rivets but I think it's worth the time if you are already in there.
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by RPOL68
You might want to even take it a step further and replace the seals on the air box and blend door. These cars don't pass a lot of air anyway and it helps to have everything fresh and tight. You can buy the seal kits for not too much. As I recall you will have to drill out a few rivets but I think it's worth the time if you are already in there.
I replaced the seals in my air box as well and am glad I did. The previous owner complained to me that the car was always hot when he drove it. I found out why: The blend door was stuck in the hot position. I freed it up and replaced the seals. I had to repair the metal tab that actuates the door with the cable control, due to the door being stuck open and the air control being forced into the closed position. I'll bet this is the reason half the "my c3 is hot when I drive it" complaints originate from.
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Old Nov 20, 2006 | 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 682XLR8
A suggestion-Take the new core to a radiator shop and have the tubes resoldered and more material added where they enter the core body.
Bought mine from Corvette Central, and it didn't take much to tweak one of the tubes to where it leaked. Of course I found this out after I installed it(water running out the bottom of the heater case)
Fortunately there no carpeting or dash yet!
Cost about $30 for resoldering and pressure check
I soldered up my own and added a heavy copper wire across the pipes for added support. I used some Gasketing from the Home Depot. The catalog kits were pretty pricy and did not get good reviews for fit when I was replacing mine.
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 01:45 PM
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I've had my share of issues dealing with the heater core in my 70 BB.
It's a PITA to begin with since the extra long tubes mean you have to tilt the whole assembly when taking it out from the firewall. I also bought a core from Corvette Central which turned out to be weak around one of the supply tube solder joints. I returned it (after I had re-assembled the dash area, and had coolant leak all over), and they sent me a new one. Even though the new one was also made in Mexico, it was better built than the first one, and had been soldered together where the two tubes come close as they exit the core. This makes more sense since you are removing a potential stressor.

I also bought the new seal kit for the heater box, but ended up using just a couple of the gaskets, and mending the firewall gasket. So far everything seems to be working OK.
...........
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Vettkeeper
Do it, you won't be sorry.
Out a few bucks, but you won't be sorry
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Old Nov 21, 2006 | 04:02 PM
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Ok, you've all talked me into it

I was able to get the wiring under the dash cleaned up and rewound so it's coming along nicely. My birdcage is in excellent condition with no noticeable rusting of any type.
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Old Dec 28, 2006 | 08:42 PM
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Does anyone have any pics or can offer a quick tutorial on how to get the heater box out? I have all my dash panels out right now and am about to attempt a heater core replacment. While im in there i'd like to put in a new seal kit. Just need to know how to get the bugger out

Look how much fun i'm having


Last edited by 69 Vette; Dec 28, 2006 at 09:57 PM.
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