rod bearing question
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 162
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rod bearing question
Don't know much about rod bearings and I don't have my old ones to check anymore, but in looking for new ones from Summit, they show these options:
Dowel Pin Hole: Yes/No
Chamfered Bearing: Yes/No
Grooved Bearing: Yes/No
My rods don't have a dowel pin, so I don't need that. But, I don't know if I need a chamfered and/or grooved bearing. I'm rebuilding a '70 L-46 w/ original rods to stock specs and I'm looking at these:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
Just wondering if those are OK...Thanks!
Dowel Pin Hole: Yes/No
Chamfered Bearing: Yes/No
Grooved Bearing: Yes/No
My rods don't have a dowel pin, so I don't need that. But, I don't know if I need a chamfered and/or grooved bearing. I'm rebuilding a '70 L-46 w/ original rods to stock specs and I'm looking at these:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
Just wondering if those are OK...Thanks!
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 12,142
Likes: 54
From: Taylor Michigan
None of the three above, just use stock bearings. Before you order any, either mike the crank or have someone to do it for you. If there are any groves or scratches in the crank you should probably seek the possibility of a reground shaft. Most of the time all necessary bearings come with a crank kit. Even with the kit, the new shaft should be checked to make sure the sizes are correct. A whole bunch of amatures are working in todays cut rate parts stores that dont know a damn thing if they cant find it in a computer. 
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by Ironcross
None of the three above, just use stock bearings. Before you order any, either mike the crank or have someone to do it for you. If there are any groves or scratches in the crank you should probably seek the possibility of a reground shaft. Most of the time all necessary bearings come with a crank kit. Even with the kit, the new shaft should be checked to make sure the sizes are correct.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
I already had the crank and rods checked out and they're ready to go. So what does it mean when rod bearings are chamfered and grooved?
Originally Posted by Ironcross
A whole bunch of amatures are working in todays cut rate parts stores that dont know a damn thing if they cant find it in a computer.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 12,142
Likes: 54
From: Taylor Michigan
The bearing types you dont need are actually the ones I use. We have and use steel billet cranks in my racing engines and they are ground with a radius for strength on the throws so a chamfered bearing is necessary. The dowel pins are used with aluminum rods to keep the bearing from spinning. And groved bearings are most often used on the mains. The CB663P is your correct small block Chevy rod bearing 
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 162
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Originally Posted by Ironcross
The bearing types you dont need are actually the ones I use. We have and use steel billet cranks in my racing engines and they are ground with a radius for strength on the throws so a chamfered bearing is necessary. The dowel pins are used with aluminum rods to keep the bearing from spinning. And groved bearings are most often used on the mains. The CB663P is your correct small block Chevy rod bearing
I checked out your Corvette photos. If I had 3 rats and a mouse, I'd never get to work...I'd never decide on which one to drive!
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 12,142
Likes: 54
From: Taylor Michigan
Nitro Alley
Thanks,
Try the web site below, if you liked the rats and mouse some different toys are there.
PS, The driving decision is quite simple. Just use the one with the most gas. Sometimes that means use one of the Harleys
Try the web site below, if you liked the rats and mouse some different toys are there.
PS, The driving decision is quite simple. Just use the one with the most gas. Sometimes that means use one of the Harleys
Last edited by Ironcross; Nov 20, 2006 at 03:38 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 46
From: Raleigh North Carolina
Originally Posted by rick1500
Dowel Pin Hole: Yes/No
Chamfered Bearing: Yes/No
Grooved Bearing: Yes/No
...Thanks!
Chamfered Bearing: Yes/No
Grooved Bearing: Yes/No
...Thanks!
If the crank has been cut "straight up" without the radius, you need
non-chamfered bearings.
If you do not know the complete history of the crank,
then you need to look at it first before ordering the bearings.
T
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,883
Likes: 124
From: Lubbock TX
Go back to the shop that checked the crank and buy bearings from them. They can't be that much more than Summit and you're supporting a local business. If you use "H" bearings - chamfered -on a crank that doesn't have the wide radiuses on the filets, you'll end up hemorrhaging a lot more oil than if you ran a standard "P" bearing since the actual bearing surface is narrower. On the other hand, if you try to run a "P" bearing on a chamfered crank, the bearing will dig into the crank and cause a world of grief. The shop that checked the crank will know what you need, give 'em a shot.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 46
From: Raleigh North Carolina
Originally Posted by L88Plus
Go back to the shop that checked the crank and buy bearings from them. They can't be that much more than Summit and you're supporting a local business. If you use "H" bearings - chamfered -on a crank that doesn't have the wide radiuses on the filets, you'll end up hemorrhaging a lot more oil than if you ran a standard "P" bearing since the actual bearing surface is narrower. On the other hand, if you try to run a "P" bearing on a chamfered crank, the bearing will dig into the crank and cause a world of grief. The shop that checked the crank will know what you need, give 'em a shot.
Well said.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,441
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I don't know if you needed this or not but I thought I might post it just in case.
The first picture is a chamfered crank journal. Look at the edges of the bearing surfaces close to the throws and notice the smooth ramp-up of the bearing surface.
The second pic is a non-chamfered crank, the edges are cut squarely.
The first picture is a chamfered crank journal. Look at the edges of the bearing surfaces close to the throws and notice the smooth ramp-up of the bearing surface.
The second pic is a non-chamfered crank, the edges are cut squarely.
Last edited by shafrs3; Nov 20, 2006 at 03:58 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 162
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Originally Posted by shafrs3
I don't know if you needed this or not but I thought I might post it just in case.
The first picture is a chamfered crank journal. Look at the edges of the bearing surfaces close to the throws and notice the smooth ramp-up of the bearing surface.
The second pic is a non-chamfered crank, the edges are cut squarely.
The first picture is a chamfered crank journal. Look at the edges of the bearing surfaces close to the throws and notice the smooth ramp-up of the bearing surface.
The second pic is a non-chamfered crank, the edges are cut squarely.
...I definitely have a non-chamfered crank.
