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Help!! The tach on my '76 L-48 doesn't work. I pulled it and found a burn mark on the circuit board. I replaced the board, along with a new filter. I adjusted the zero ok, but when I start the car, I get nothing, it stays on zero. With the tach disconnected, and the engine running, I get 12 volts from the pink wire, and 16 volts from the brown wire. I also noticed resistors R3 and R4 were hot after a few minutes of running. Is it maybe a distributor problem? Any help is appreciated.
Help!! The tach on my '76 L-48 doesn't work. I pulled it and found a burn mark on the circuit board. I replaced the board, along with a new filter. I adjusted the zero ok, but when I start the car, I get nothing, it stays on zero. With the tach disconnected, and the engine running, I get 12 volts from the pink wire, and 16 volts from the brown wire. I also noticed resistors R3 and R4 were hot after a few minutes of running. Is it maybe a distributor problem? Any help is appreciated.
Did you verify a pulse train signal at the tach output of the distributor? With the engine running. If you don't have a scope, you could use an external tach/dwell meter. Then verify at the input and output of your tach filter just for the hell of it.
From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
Originally Posted by billsfan
Help!! The tach on my '76 L-48 doesn't work. I pulled it and found a burn mark on the circuit board. I replaced the board, along with a new filter. I adjusted the zero ok, but when I start the car, I get nothing, it stays on zero. With the tach disconnected, and the engine running, I get 12 volts from the pink wire, and 16 volts from the brown wire. I also noticed resistors R3 and R4 were hot after a few minutes of running. Is it maybe a distributor problem? Any help is appreciated.
How did you adjust zero? On a '76 that's supposed to be done ONLY by pulling the needle off and going to zero with power on. Never use the rheostat that's on the board.
Assuming you did that, is there a chance that the needle is not moving freely? When you power on, can you see the needle actively move to zero?
At the tach filter, are both connectors good? You have one to the dash harness and one to the distributor.
Did you verify a pulse train signal at the tach output of the distributor? With the engine running. If you don't have a scope, you could use an external tach/dwell meter. Then verify at the input and output of your tach filter just for the hell of it.
Bullshark
Turns out I'm an idiot!! I installed the circuit board without the phenolic resin washers between the board and the motor. I started to install it that way originally, but the board didn't seem to lay flat. After staring at the circuit board for a few minutes, I realized it had to go that way. Installed the washers, success!! Thanks for the help.
See my reply to Bullshark. When I pulled the old board off, there were no washers under it, thus my confusion. By the way, the instructions from Mid America didn't mention any washers. Except for that mishap, the fix was easy, including zeroing the tach. Now I've got to figure out how to put my dash back together. Thanks for the help!
It's located on the drivers side, right in front of the distributor, with a wire coming out of the lower end of the cap. So look between the rear of the carb and infront of the distributor. If it's the stock filter then it's about 2 inches long and thicker than a cigarette. with one single wire coming out of each end. Hope this helps.
It's located on the drivers side, right in front of the distributor, with a wire coming out of the lower end of the cap. So look between the rear of the carb and infront of the distributor. If it's the stock filter then it's about 2 inches long and thicker than a cigarette. with one single wire coming out of each end. Hope this helps.
Thanks! What does this part do and where can you get one?
So guys, I'm looking at a '75 vert that I may buy - 1 owner car and he says the tach just started acting weird recently. It fluctuates and hangs at 2k, 3k when he turns the car off. Is the anything other than a dash biopsy that could fix the issue that anyone has found? That's a negotiating point for sure if the dash has to come out - did it 20yrs ago on a '76, still have nightmares.....