I'd bet money the cables are just a little loose at the battery or the starter.
Completely Dead
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 169
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From: VA
Completely Dead
I replaced the starter about a month ago after I noticed the motor would not turn over. When I finished I turned the ignition just to make sure the engine would crank over and everything was ok, which it did. I didn't actually start the car as I did not have time. A few days later I went to take it out for spin. The car had not been started for a while, so it cranked it over several times and everything just died. Meaning, all power seems to be out, as if someone disconnected the battery, but the battery is fine.
What would cause this? I there some master fuse or switch I can check? This really has me confused?
What would cause this? I there some master fuse or switch I can check? This really has me confused?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
Check battery connections, and ground connections on the Battery to Frame connections.
Put a test light on the fuse panel and check out your Ign and Accesory connections with the key on.
My bet is on a batt cable
Put a test light on the fuse panel and check out your Ign and Accesory connections with the key on.
My bet is on a batt cable
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Here's the deal. Your battery is showing a 12V charge, but one or more of the battery's cells are degraded, and it doesn't have enough cranking amps to turn the motor around, and trying used what little amperage was left.
This is a fairly common problem often wrongly diagnosed. The battery must be tested with a load, like at an Oreilly or Autozone. If you can jump start the car, and get it to one of those places, they can test both the alt and battery while it's still in the car. They'll sell you a new battery while you're there, and it'll fire right up.
The new starter was a nice part to update, but probably not needed.
Good luck.
This is a fairly common problem often wrongly diagnosed. The battery must be tested with a load, like at an Oreilly or Autozone. If you can jump start the car, and get it to one of those places, they can test both the alt and battery while it's still in the car. They'll sell you a new battery while you're there, and it'll fire right up.
The new starter was a nice part to update, but probably not needed.
Good luck.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 169
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From: VA
Originally Posted by Durango_boy
Here's the deal. Your battery is showing a 12V charge, but one or more of the battery's cells are degraded, and it doesn't have enough cranking amps to turn the motor around, and trying used what little amperage was left.
This is a fairly common problem often wrongly diagnosed. The battery must be tested with a load, like at an Oreilly or Autozone. If you can jump start the car, and get it to one of those places, they can test both the alt and battery while it's still in the car. They'll sell you a new battery while you're there, and it'll fire right up.
The new starter was a nice part to update, but probably not needed.
Good luck.
This is a fairly common problem often wrongly diagnosed. The battery must be tested with a load, like at an Oreilly or Autozone. If you can jump start the car, and get it to one of those places, they can test both the alt and battery while it's still in the car. They'll sell you a new battery while you're there, and it'll fire right up.
The new starter was a nice part to update, but probably not needed.
Good luck.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by Michaeljh2000
The battery is good. If the problem is with the cables, it must be where the ground connects to the frame? The connections at the battery look good and the + connection to the starter looks ok too. Could a bad connection from negative side of the battery to ground be the culprit?
Bag grounding is always a possibility. It's usually a large percentage of electrical problems that come up in these cars.
How do you know for sure the battery is good? A DMM showing 12V means nothing if it doesn't have the cranking amps to turn a lawn mower. The only way to do that is with a tester than can check for draw under load.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 169
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From: VA
Originally Posted by Durango_boy
Bag grounding is always a possibility. It's usually a large percentage of electrical problems that come up in these cars.
How do you know for sure the battery is good? A DMM showing 12V means nothing if it doesn't have the cranking amps to turn a lawn mower. The only way to do that is with a tester than can check for draw under load.
How do you know for sure the battery is good? A DMM showing 12V means nothing if it doesn't have the cranking amps to turn a lawn mower. The only way to do that is with a tester than can check for draw under load.
Thanks for the great advice from everyone. Hopefully, its just the cables
Last edited by Michaeljh2000; Dec 4, 2006 at 06:28 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
This may help. Just posted it in another thread.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...2&postcount=27
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...2&postcount=27
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by noonie
This may help. Just posted it in another thread.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...2&postcount=27
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...2&postcount=27
That's great info. I had toyed with the idea of replacing mine when I do the motor swap, but now I know the real situation...I will for sure.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,775
Likes: 4
i had a similar problem to yours last year. took me over a month to sort out, had that starter in and out of the car atleast 2 dozen times.
i had it at times where it would start, others where it wouldnt. had it so it started just fine out side of the car, and would even work out side of the car when i turned the key. soon as it went back in it was dead.
anyways, in the end i just started hacking wires up and spliceing new in. all the wires i cut out were heavily corroded. its worked just fine since then.
i had it at times where it would start, others where it wouldnt. had it so it started just fine out side of the car, and would even work out side of the car when i turned the key. soon as it went back in it was dead.
anyways, in the end i just started hacking wires up and spliceing new in. all the wires i cut out were heavily corroded. its worked just fine since then.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
That is one cheezy azzed cable, if thats what ya got lose it. Build yourself a GOOD test light. Use a 12 volt headlight from anything with a piece of lampcord and a couple roach clips. It will troubleshoot any loose, marginal connectors. with everything conneted normal, use the light with one leg to ground (frame connection underhood) and the other to the big cable at the starter, if the light comes on bright and gets hot, the battery to starter and frame are good.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by wombvette
Sure that you installed the ground wire on the starter correctly? If you put it on the positive cable it will kill the battery, new or not. Do the wipers or the fan motor work?
That would kill a lot more than a battery. Most of the harness would be toast to me thinks.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by onaqwst
just spend 100 bucks and buy some connectors and some 4 guage or 0 guage wire and redo the battery to starter..... and repalce the ground ...
upgrade while you are at it....
b
upgrade while you are at it....
b
How much is welding cable these days? That seems to be a good source for a quality length of heavy gauge cable.