Instruction for Valve Seal Replacement
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 3,770
Likes: 3
From: St Louis MO
You might read that you need compressed air but you don't. TDC and some nylon rope will work fine. You might also read to use a pencil magnet to assist with you valve lock retrieval. Do it, that's good advice.
Brett
Brett
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 534
Likes: 2
From: Connecticut
Originally Posted by 71redskin
do a search on this forum...i got great instructions when i did mine...good luck
Valve Seals
Valve Seal replacement
Instructions Valve Seals
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 3,770
Likes: 3
From: St Louis MO
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 10,045
Likes: 675
From: FL
Here is my method for valve seals. No compressor required and I can do 16 seals in 3 hours.
1. You need a small magnet, hammer, wheel grease, spring compressor (I use the cheap bar type), rope, a balancer that is marked every 90 degrees plus wrenches, etc.
2. Remove spark plugs.
3. Rotate balancer (I use the bolt) till you get to the 0 degree TDC mark.
4. Ensure that you are on #1 TDC on firing stroke by pulling the distributor cap. Rotor pointing close to #1? Good. If it is pointing to #6. If not rotate crank 360 degrees and recheck.
5. I feed a little rope into the cylinder through the spark plug hole but it is not required since the piston is at TDC.
6. We are now ready to replace the springs/seals on #1.
7. Remove rocker arms and pushrods. I then do each spring in turn.
8. Tap spring retainer with hammer to help "break" friction.
9. Compress spring and remove the keepers using the magnet.
10. You can now replace the seals and springs.
11. Compress spring and retainer assembly and reinstall the keepers. A little grease on the inside of the keepers will help them stick to the valve stem when doing this.
12. Reinstall pushrods and rockers.
13. Since the piston is at TDC on the firing stroke, both valves are closed and the cam lifters will be on the base circle of the cam. This means that you can relash the valves at this time for that cylinder.
14. Remove rope and rotate crank 90 degrees.
15. Repeat for next cylinder IN FIRING ORDER.
The beauty of this method is that with the piston at TDC, the valve cannot drop down more than 1/2" and will not fall into the cylinder bore.
1. You need a small magnet, hammer, wheel grease, spring compressor (I use the cheap bar type), rope, a balancer that is marked every 90 degrees plus wrenches, etc.
2. Remove spark plugs.
3. Rotate balancer (I use the bolt) till you get to the 0 degree TDC mark.
4. Ensure that you are on #1 TDC on firing stroke by pulling the distributor cap. Rotor pointing close to #1? Good. If it is pointing to #6. If not rotate crank 360 degrees and recheck.
5. I feed a little rope into the cylinder through the spark plug hole but it is not required since the piston is at TDC.
6. We are now ready to replace the springs/seals on #1.
7. Remove rocker arms and pushrods. I then do each spring in turn.
8. Tap spring retainer with hammer to help "break" friction.
9. Compress spring and remove the keepers using the magnet.
10. You can now replace the seals and springs.
11. Compress spring and retainer assembly and reinstall the keepers. A little grease on the inside of the keepers will help them stick to the valve stem when doing this.
12. Reinstall pushrods and rockers.
13. Since the piston is at TDC on the firing stroke, both valves are closed and the cam lifters will be on the base circle of the cam. This means that you can relash the valves at this time for that cylinder.
14. Remove rope and rotate crank 90 degrees.
15. Repeat for next cylinder IN FIRING ORDER.
The beauty of this method is that with the piston at TDC, the valve cannot drop down more than 1/2" and will not fall into the cylinder bore.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 12,703
Likes: 329
From: Scottsdale Arizona
Originally Posted by SteveG75
Here is my method for valve seals. No compressor required and I can do 16 seals in 3 hours.
1. You need a small magnet, hammer, wheel grease, spring compressor (I use the cheap bar type), rope, a balancer that is marked every 90 degrees plus wrenches, etc.
2. Remove spark plugs.
3. Rotate balancer (I use the bolt) till you get to the 0 degree TDC mark.
4. Ensure that you are on #1 TDC on firing stroke by pulling the distributor cap. Rotor pointing close to #1? Good. If it is pointing to #6. If not rotate crank 360 degrees and recheck.
5. I feed a little rope into the cylinder through the spark plug hole but it is not required since the piston is at TDC.
6. We are now ready to replace the springs/seals on #1.
7. Remove rocker arms and pushrods. I then do each spring in turn.
8. Tap spring retainer with hammer to help "break" friction.
9. Compress spring and remove the keepers using the magnet.
10. You can now replace the seals and springs.
11. Compress spring and retainer assembly and reinstall the keepers. A little grease on the inside of the keepers will help them stick to the valve stem when doing this.
12. Reinstall pushrods and rockers.
13. Since the piston is at TDC on the firing stroke, both valves are closed and the cam lifters will be on the base circle of the cam. This means that you can relash the valves at this time for that cylinder.
14. Remove rope and rotate crank 90 degrees.
15. Repeat for next cylinder IN FIRING ORDER.
The beauty of this method is that with the piston at TDC, the valve cannot drop down more than 1/2" and will not fall into the cylinder bore.
1. You need a small magnet, hammer, wheel grease, spring compressor (I use the cheap bar type), rope, a balancer that is marked every 90 degrees plus wrenches, etc.
2. Remove spark plugs.
3. Rotate balancer (I use the bolt) till you get to the 0 degree TDC mark.
4. Ensure that you are on #1 TDC on firing stroke by pulling the distributor cap. Rotor pointing close to #1? Good. If it is pointing to #6. If not rotate crank 360 degrees and recheck.
5. I feed a little rope into the cylinder through the spark plug hole but it is not required since the piston is at TDC.
6. We are now ready to replace the springs/seals on #1.
7. Remove rocker arms and pushrods. I then do each spring in turn.
8. Tap spring retainer with hammer to help "break" friction.
9. Compress spring and remove the keepers using the magnet.
10. You can now replace the seals and springs.
11. Compress spring and retainer assembly and reinstall the keepers. A little grease on the inside of the keepers will help them stick to the valve stem when doing this.
12. Reinstall pushrods and rockers.
13. Since the piston is at TDC on the firing stroke, both valves are closed and the cam lifters will be on the base circle of the cam. This means that you can relash the valves at this time for that cylinder.
14. Remove rope and rotate crank 90 degrees.
15. Repeat for next cylinder IN FIRING ORDER.
The beauty of this method is that with the piston at TDC, the valve cannot drop down more than 1/2" and will not fall into the cylinder bore.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 534
Likes: 2
From: Connecticut
Originally Posted by Brettmc
Thank you
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