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sidepipes and starters

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Old Dec 6, 2006 | 07:38 AM
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Default sidepipes and starters

Just putting on some Hookers and that rear pssgr side pipe comes pretty close to the starter. Does this mean I'm going to start having starter problems from all that heat?
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Old Dec 6, 2006 | 08:57 AM
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Shield and insulate it, cheap/easy/parts readily available
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Old Dec 6, 2006 | 07:04 PM
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I have them on my 78' and have not had any heat problems. I did wrap the wires with heat reflective tape just to be safe. Unless you have a wild cam or pull a load, they don't seem to get hot enough to bake the starter. Mine have been on for 4 years.
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Old Dec 6, 2006 | 07:36 PM
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You should not have any problems unless the car has been Bubbasized. {backyard engineer} Basically a idiot thinking he could improve what GM has been producing for over 50 years and has had it correct since the first V8 was shoved into them.
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Old Dec 6, 2006 | 08:08 PM
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Has anyone installed Hooker side pipes with vortec heads? Does the port on the head match the port on the header. I know there is no problem with angled plugs

Thanks
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Old Dec 6, 2006 | 08:35 PM
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i have headers on my 79 L82 and it did cause hot start problems with the stock starter due to minimal header/starter clearance. installed a gear reduction mini starter (Powermaster Mini XS Torque) and have had no further problems.
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Old Dec 6, 2006 | 10:08 PM
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sorry for the hijack but if the starter gets hot enough will it not start or like not want to start just keep turning? i notice that when i run my car hard and then stop somewhere and try and start it back up like 2 mins later and it almost doesnt start up??
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 12:57 AM
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I'm running sidepipes with the original starter and long tube headers and haven't had but a few hiccups. Most related to the alternator not charging the battery enough.
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 01:32 AM
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Originally Posted by whoodiestyle
sorry for the hijack but if the starter gets hot enough will it not start or like not want to start just keep turning? i notice that when i run my car hard and then stop somewhere and try and start it back up like 2 mins later and it almost doesnt start up??
Mixed opinions on the forum about heat soak silenoid, however I don't know of anyone which didn't eliminate these symptoms by going with a mini-gear reduction starter or installing a Ford style silenoid on the fender away from the heat.
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 01:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Kalway
I'm running sidepipes with the original starter and long tube headers and haven't had but a few hiccups. Most related to the alternator not charging the battery enough.
Smart man, most of the forum would blame the starter. You cannot beat the OEM stuff as hard as they try. Mini starters suck, they belong on what they were made for, small 4 cyl low compression imports. Heat soak starter? Every part of the engine gets hot with or without headers. A good OEM starter will crank 600+HP every time as long as the battery is good behind it. And a bad battery will also kill a good starter every time. Damn, sure put a lot of "goods" in those last few sentences.
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 02:17 AM
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Well, although it was mainly related to the battery getting enough charge. Many of the hiccups I cured by whacking the starter with a wrench a couple of times, then going and turning the key. Apparently it landed on a dead spot a couple of times and there wasn't enough juice to get it to turn past it. Since I've had the new alternater I haven't had the problem. Also since I've tightened the solenoid on.

Essentially Ironcross is right, hard to beat the OEM starter.
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Ironcross
You cannot beat the OEM stuff as hard as they try. Mini starters suck, they belong on what they were made for, small 4 cyl low compression imports. Heat soak starter? Every part of the engine gets hot with or without headers. A good OEM starter will crank 600+HP every time as long as the battery is good behind it. And a bad battery will also kill a good starter every time. Damn, sure put a lot of "goods" in those last few sentences.
While the OEM starters are good for some applications when you have a high compression engine there really isn't much of a choice but to go with a mini gear reduction starter. On top of that, the reduced weight is reason enough for me. The smaller size also helps keep the starter and wires away from the headers.
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by bence13_33
While the OEM starters are good for some applications when you have a high compression engine there really isn't much of a choice but to go with a mini gear reduction starter. On top of that, the reduced weight is reason enough for me. The smaller size also helps keep the starter and wires away from the headers.
There really is a choice but not available in all markets. Absolutely nothing that I have is not a high compression engine. All are equiped with OEM starters. I use what I sell and we have one of the best remanufactured units anywhere. It may be true that a low quality starter is a bad choice and would lead one to think the tiny gear reduction aftermarket units are better, but a truly "quality" OEM piece cannot be ignored.
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 10:14 PM
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the poster mentions headers running close to the starter. this is not an OEM setup. mini-starters are smaller, and many can be "clocked" to move them even farther away from the offending heat source (ie headers). in my application i think this may have been a very significant factor in resolving the problem with a mini-starter. also, the remote solenoid overcomes problems with 30+ year old ignition wire that has high internal resistance (also, not an OEM situation). as far as mini-starters being for low compression 4 cylinder engines, not true. most are rated to turn 20:1 compression engines. some top fuelers are using these without problem.
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