Jeep Box Wheel Alignment issue
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
I made my own center link. I have the proper reamer for tie rods, the proper taper so I just welded a block onto the center link and put 4 different spots for the inner tie rod exactly 1 inch apart to accomodate all the different length sleeves.
This is the modified link. The bottom right hole is the stock one and the upper 3 are the added ones. Raising the center attachment is like lowering the outer one. You are after slope for less toe change and length to keep it linear. Means if you improve toe in the toe out is also improved.
I am in the center position of the new added holes and this is what worked for me
Last edited by norvalwilhelm; Dec 12, 2006 at 01:16 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
After establishing what spacer I needed I turned a solid chunk of round stock on the lathe threading it all the way through to 16mm bolt.
I then bolted the block to the steering arm and then welded it solid to the arm. The bolt is just insurance if the weld would crack.
I then use a 16mm bolt through the rod end to secure the tie rod to the bottom of the block. You can still fine tune with small washers to that last .007 which I didn't do. I would need 1/2 a thickness of a washer to totally dial out this last bit of toe change.
I then bolted the block to the steering arm and then welded it solid to the arm. The bolt is just insurance if the weld would crack.
I then use a 16mm bolt through the rod end to secure the tie rod to the bottom of the block. You can still fine tune with small washers to that last .007 which I didn't do. I would need 1/2 a thickness of a washer to totally dial out this last bit of toe change.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,028
Likes: 2
From: North NJ
Thanks Norval. 
Looks very strong.
What is on the end of your drag link? looks like a powersteering cylinder...but i know you have the jeep box.
I really like your shock mount. That is the one part I was not confortable with if I ever converted to true coil-overs. But yours is now plenty strong.
Looks very strong.
What is on the end of your drag link? looks like a powersteering cylinder...but i know you have the jeep box.
I really like your shock mount. That is the one part I was not confortable with if I ever converted to true coil-overs. But yours is now plenty strong.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Thanks Norval.
Looks very strong.
What is on the end of your drag link? looks like a powersteering cylinder...but i know you have the jeep box.
I really like your shock mount. That is the one part I was not confortable with if I ever converted to true coil-overs. But yours is now plenty strong.
Looks very strong.
What is on the end of your drag link? looks like a powersteering cylinder...but i know you have the jeep box.
I really like your shock mount. That is the one part I was not confortable with if I ever converted to true coil-overs. But yours is now plenty strong.
Those lower coil over mounts are strong but in the picture you see aluminum spacers. This is wrong. I ended up using hardened steel spacers. With design a bending load can be changed into a compressive load so I needed the hardened steel spacers. The aluminum is too soft and would transmit a bending load to the 1/2 through bolts.
