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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 02:13 AM
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Default Fuel pressure regulator pictures

Tonight I installed a Holley fuel pressure regulator because my gauge was reading 9 psi and It was flooding slightly. The regulator is supposed to be factory set at 5 psi, but when I started the car, it read 9 psi again. I wonder if the guage is good. It's fluid filled and old. I shoulda checked that first. Oh well.

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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 07:35 AM
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I see teflon tape on the AN flare connections, those are flared and the 37 degree seat creates the seal, no teflon should be used. The threads themselves are non sealing, just regular UNC threads.
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 07:40 AM
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Curious why you didnt buy regulator with return to tank?
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by DWncchs
Curious why you didnt buy regulator with return to tank?
The return to tank regulators were very expensive. Do you know of a good affordable one? This regulator has dual outs, I plugged one. I could run another -6 line out of that to the return line. When I lived in Texas, the return line was essential to keep the fuel circulating because of heats soak, perculation, etc. But since I've been in Cali., that has not been a problem.
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
I see teflon tape on the AN flare connections, those are flared and the 37 degree seat creates the seal, no teflon should be used. The threads themselves are non sealing, just regular UNC threads.
I was told to always use teflon on aluminum fittings to prevent galling. Are you saying that is incorrect? When I started the car it scared me good because I thought I saw a leak, but it was water from the heater hoses next to the fuel lines. I have to replace them. I think I'll go back to regular rubber hoses.
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 09:28 AM
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Use teflon paste so the tape doesn't break apart and get pushed into the fittings, regulator and the carb. No return is really needed. Just cap off the return line on the frame to keep stuff from getting up in the line/tank.

I would be suspect of your gauge. The gauge on my dad's 59' just crapped out also. It used to read 5-6psi all the time with an electric holley blue pump and regulator. Then the gauge started reading 3 psi. he would adjust the regulator and the gauge would read up or down but once he set it to 6 psi and it started blowing past the needle in the carb. Turns out the gauge was reading 3 psi low.

Try a different gauge BUT don't trust the preset settings on the regulator.
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 09:32 AM
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you NEVER EVER use teflon tape/paste on an AN fitting...pipe thread yes, AN NO!!
...redvetracr
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by redvetracr
you NEVER EVER use teflon tape/paste on an AN fitting...pipe thread yes, AN NO!!
...redvetracr

+1

forgot to tell ya that, only paste the pipe side, not the AN side. Those go on with no type of sealer.
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 09:39 AM
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exactly...someone out there is feeding bad info, the guy w/ the buildup 82 thread had teflon tape on his also and I've seen a few others as well. just like red says, on pipe thread yes, on flared connections..whatever they are (45, 37 degree, tube/nut assembly...doesn't matter) a flared connection uses the flared surface as the seal, on a pipe thread the taper creates the seal but requires a sealant (teflon tape..or other)

To prevent galling ONLY use a light machine oil, nothing else. If you buy high quality fittings with high quality threads (XRP, Aeroquip) you won't have galling, use quality adapters/forged elbows and such also. It's the cheap stuff that can have bad threads and mess up your fittings. There's a difference between the high quality aircraft type AN threads and the lower quality automotive and JIC threads.
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 10:10 AM
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Guys I have a question on teflon and the AN fitting.I understand that the AN seals on by the flare and seat,and the pipe seals by the threads.I have always understood that teflon paste has no sealing capabilites and it serves only as a lubricant to allow the pipe thread to go in further there by the threads seal.If this is correct then on an AN fitting wouldnt this allow (if used ONLY on the threads)the flare to be formed with less actual torque because the threads are lubricated and more actual force is applied to the seat with less torque on the nut?I am referring to the paste and NOT the tape--I understand if the tape got on the flared seat it could cause a leak.Plus you wouldnt want bits of the tape in the system.Just curious.
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 10:12 AM
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What would happen if you used teflon on the AN fittings? You guys mentioned that that you don't need to use it but why. Just curious that's all.
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 10:29 AM
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it may leak as with the teflon you possibly can not thread the 2 pieces together tight enough to allow the flare surface to create that seal, the threads will be the seal. They are not designed to do this. It's not that you don't NEED to use it, you MUST not use it.
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 11:35 AM
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Got It TT...Thanks
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
it may leak as with the teflon you possibly can not thread the 2 pieces together tight enough to allow the flare surface to create that seal, the threads will be the seal. They are not designed to do this. It's not that you don't NEED to use it, you MUST not use it.


The fitting shop out here has a sign on the counter - don't use teflon on AN fittings. They did say that it was OK to use on your toilet...

http://www.aeroquip.com/pages/perfor...ical_info.html FAQ page - check near bottom.

Last edited by Z-man; Dec 7, 2006 at 03:37 PM.
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 04:27 PM
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If you are worried about galling or corrosion seizure, you can put a thread lubricant/antiseize compound on the threads only.
This serves 2 purposes,
1-to lubricate the thread for proper torque,
2-to prevent seizing fro oxidation or rust, long term.

I have been using a copper antiseize compound for years on everything I can.
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 06:47 PM
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OK, thanks TT. I'll get the teflon off of the AN fittings, leave it on the 3/8 NPT. That is why this forum rocks. I learn something every day.
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 08:04 PM
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Bee Jay, here's a thread where Lars comments about using a non bypass style regulator with a return system. Also holley makes a bypass version of the same regulator you have ....about 57 bucks.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...um_id=3&arch=1
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 08:19 PM
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At least you put your regulator near carb...mine is back near the tank...
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