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Hi Lars,
I just read your Q-Jet tuning paper (VERY nicely done), and I have a question. Do the areas in your paper pertaining to changing jet/rods apply to the E4ME? Have you ever tuned one of these carbs and changed the jet/rods?
The reason I ask is that I have been reading Roe's carb book that I mentioned in my other post, and he urged caution when changing these on this carb because of the electronic metering.
I'm gathering information before attempting a tune on my carb. The car runs pretty good, but I do have the off idle lag and my idle could be better. Plus I want to get as much out of this carb as possible. Aside from a free flow air filter my 81's engine is stock, but I do have full dual exhaust with no cat.
I ain't Lars, but I have been learning some about this carb. The Primary side there is no need to change the rods/jets/orifice/whatever is there because the the computer takes care of that. The secondary side is only open during "Open Loop" mode so you can tune them in to your needs.
when the carb is in closed loop the mixture controll solenoid "dwell" as read on a scanner or dwell meter (6 cyl setting) on the green m/c solenoid conector should be 30 to 35 degrees of dwell. if the dwell is down at 5 degrees at idle or cruise speeds, the air/fuel mixture is too lean (the idle tube or primary metering rods are adjusted too lean or the idle or main are too small) if the dwell is at 45 degrees at idle or cruise speeds the air/fuel mixture is too rich and must thus must be adjusted to get the ideal 30 to 35 degrees of dwell. this 30-35 dwell allows the computer to go rich or lean depending on what the engine needs to get the air/fuel mixture it is programmed for.