Powder Coat - Maybe too durable.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,424
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From: Lakeland FL
Powder Coat - Maybe too durable.
I got my frame back from powder coating a couple of weeks ago and am slowly getting parts back on it. I've just gotten to the studs that the upper control arms bolt to. These studs have teeth (knurling?) that should fit into the holes so the bolt doesn't turn while tightening the nut since the head is difficult to get to with the control arm in place.
I've found that the holes in the frame and the associated teeth are covered in powder coating to the point that you can barely tell there are teeth in there. I'm having a very hard time getting this area cleaned out so the bolts will go in.
Anybody know of a good way to get these holes cleaned out?
I've found that the holes in the frame and the associated teeth are covered in powder coating to the point that you can barely tell there are teeth in there. I'm having a very hard time getting this area cleaned out so the bolts will go in.
Anybody know of a good way to get these holes cleaned out?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,063
Likes: 1
From: Beverly Massachusetts
You should be able to drill the holes out if you can get a drill bit with the same diameter as the hole but as for the teeth I would say a lot of time and triangle file are your only hope. 
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 65
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From: Moerstraten NL
I also just about powdercoated everything on my vette. Had to clean a compleet crossmember because it needed some welding and a recoat.
The best thing to do is buy a nice and cheap liquid paint stripper. Put it on the places you want cleaned and wait about 5 minutes. Now the powdercoat is almost liquid and its very easy to scrape it of. If its a inner tread you need to clean. Do the same and put the bold in after 5 minutes. Very easy also to get the powdercoat of the points where your groundcables will connect to the chassis
Groeten Peter.
The best thing to do is buy a nice and cheap liquid paint stripper. Put it on the places you want cleaned and wait about 5 minutes. Now the powdercoat is almost liquid and its very easy to scrape it of. If its a inner tread you need to clean. Do the same and put the bold in after 5 minutes. Very easy also to get the powdercoat of the points where your groundcables will connect to the chassis
Groeten Peter.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,424
Likes: 0
From: Lakeland FL
I tried taping the bolts in and attempting to line up the teeth right but that doesn't seem to work. It looks like it will wear down the teeth on the bolt before the powder coat moves.
I'm concerned about using chemicals here due to not wanting to remove any more powder coating than necessary but may have to resort to that.
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Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
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I had to weld something that was coated once, the part to weld was raised and I could easily grind the coating off and weld on it, thinking i could easily touch up the now bare ground section with some por and never see it...big mistake, the heat destroyed the coating in a large circumference 
that's the only major drawback to a coated frame, that's why mine is taking so damn long, I have to weld everything in place, attach all brackets and what not..basically mocking up the entire car before taking it to the coaters...afterwards I'll be stuck with what I have.
that's the only major drawback to a coated frame, that's why mine is taking so damn long, I have to weld everything in place, attach all brackets and what not..basically mocking up the entire car before taking it to the coaters...afterwards I'll be stuck with what I have.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
Likes: 9
refinish? no need to dip the frame, you can sandblast it. However if you dip it, it can also be galvanized (check for straightness afterwards) and then iron phosphate treated and coated (without the phosfate coating won't stick)..even better than flame zinc spraying.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,008
Likes: 38
From: Space Coast Gator Territory
I was with the notion that powder coat was resistant to chemicals like acetone and lacquer thinner. Recently, I was cleaning a lower control arm with lacquer thinner that was supposed to be powder coated. After some wiping, I started to see a white base or sandblasted finish showing through. I stopped wiping, so I am not sure which. My conclusion was that the powder coat was probably a nice coat of Rustoleum that was coming off. Could I have been wrong in my conclusion and powder does break down when exposed to lacquer thinner and acetone?
Drifting
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,544
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From: Youngstown Ohio
Zip Strip comes in industrial strength, use it and some patience. It will melt it wipe off and the edges will tend to feather themselves. It is tougher than paint to remove. Most all of my metal parts are powdercoated, frame/chassis, interior aluminum panels etc. The real strength of powder coat is resistance to scratching and abrasion, generally it's paint, just alot tougher. I also have found paints that match my powder coat colors to touch up areas I have had to remove coatings, no matter how well you plan you will move or remount something eventually. Good powder coat prep means plugging all the holes that are threaded or have tight tolerances, generally you will do a better job of this than the powder coater as he wiil not know which areas are important, I learned this lesson late. Industrial Zip Strip and a Q-Tip
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,991
Likes: 3
From: Piscataway NJ
Try to pull the bolts in. Get a spacer and use the nut to draw it in. As you pull it in hilp it along by hitting the head of the bolt. Also be carefull with brake fluid around powder coat it will eat it up. I stick with POR 15. Once powder coat gets a nick or scratch the rust will erode under it and it will start flaking of.