Glazing and topcoating DP90LF...

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Dec 17, 2006 | 05:50 PM

Talisman51

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Burning Brakes

Joined: Jul 2002

Posts: 768

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From: Chicago Burbs IL

Glazing and topcoating DP90LF...

I am still inching along on the resto of a 65 frame and front control arms. Today with the balmy Chicago weather, I finally got the control arms nicely preped (bare metal) and under two coats of DP90LF. I used the Preval stray tool which although slowwww worked surpisingly well. Next up, filling some pits (yep I am ****) and then some type of topcoat....

1. For pit work, I was either going to fill with Evercoat's Slick Sand or Metal Glaze, sand, recoat with the DP90LF, and finally topcoat. Comments...?

2. Topcoats...I am still at a loss... After reading countless archived DP posts I see some folks don't even bother to topcoat. As mentioned earlier I still don't have a spray gun setup so I will probably continue with the Preval or spray cans. I am concerned about both compatability, adhesion, and the recoat window with the DP90LF primer. PPG states that after one week the surface needs to be roughed and reshot with DP90LF prior to topcoat. Also, fellow posters have mentioned compatability issues using products like Krylon over different manufactures primer. Any experience with overcoating DP90LF with Krylon, Cat Blitz Black, or Sem enamels?

Many thanks....
JimV

Dec 17, 2006 | 07:17 PM

Red 69

Melting Slicks

Joined: Apr 2004

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From: Space Coast Gator Territory

There is no need to topcoat DP paint. I am speaking from a non-NCRS perspective and from function and general appearance only. If you have your control arms sand blasted, just wipe the parts down with a good grease/wax remover to eliminate fisheyes, let it dry well before brushing on the DP. Read the directions about temp, I think it calls for 70 degrees. If you want a higher gloss, just add a little extra hardner to the pigment. I find the higher gloss is easier to clean and prefer the look. Use a quality hair brush and it will flow together producing a beautiful finish. If you have imperfections to fill, do the work over the first coat and coat over as you suggested.
I have used Krylon to topcoat several brands of paint and never had a problem. You will not find a better quality and durable paint in a spray can IMO.

Last edited by Red 69; Dec 17, 2006 at 07:25 PM.

Dec 17, 2006 | 07:56 PM

big_G

Le Mans Master

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From: Austin Texas

I have done many 'Vette frames with straight DP. Never top-coated. Not as durable as powder coating, but pretty tough.

Dec 17, 2006 | 08:49 PM

Red 69

Melting Slicks

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From: Space Coast Gator Territory

Quote:

Originally Posted by big_G

I have done many 'Vette frames with straight DP. Never top-coated. Not as durable as powder coating, but pretty tough.

I agree and would not top coat DP unless it was to match a top color. When I want a gloss finish on a frame, I use POR in gloss black. They call it powder coat in a can for a reason.

Dec 18, 2006 | 12:41 AM

billla

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From: Seattle WA

St. Jude Donor '14

DPLF will last reasonably well as long as it's mixed as a primer/sealer and not just a primer - that may be why you're seeing different opinons.

Dec 18, 2006 | 01:00 AM

Talisman51

Thread Starter

Burning Brakes

Joined: Jul 2002

Posts: 768

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From: Chicago Burbs IL

primer sealer....DP90LF

Quote:

Originally Posted by billla

DPLF will last reasonably well as long as it's mixed as a primer/sealer and not just a primer - that may be why you're seeing different opinons.

Humm...Based on the PPG tech sheets I see if you add reducer DP can be used as a sealer. So...you are saying with the reducer the stuff has better topcoat characteristics. Why do you suppose that is?

Dec 18, 2006 | 01:09 AM

Talisman51

Thread Starter

Burning Brakes

Joined: Jul 2002

Posts: 768

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From: Chicago Burbs IL

Whoa...didn't know you could brush the DP and have it flow nicely...Great tip! Also, the hardener trick is handy. I must have gone a bit heavy on the catalyst since I got a much glossier look than I expected. I did use the longer pot life catalyst, so that may play into the equation as well...

Are your refering to Krylon enamel or lacquer? Some folks speak of the Industrial Krylon which is a enamal while I believe the #1613 is a lacquer.

Thanks.

Dec 18, 2006 | 11:59 AM

Red 69

Melting Slicks

Joined: Apr 2004

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From: Space Coast Gator Territory

Quote:

Originally Posted by Talisman51

Are your refering to Krylon enamel or lacquer? Some folks speak of the Industrial Krylon which is a enamal while I believe the #1613 is a lacquer.

Thanks.

After reading what I wrote about the Krylon, I left some words out which change it entirely. Although I have had success using Krylon aersol, my sentence should have read, "You will not find a better quality and durable paint in a spray can than DPLF IMO." BY this I mean any aersol top coat can offer nothing more than a color change. Spraying a semi-gloss black over semi-gloss black is a waste of material and effort IMO. The Krylon to which I referred is regular off the shelf Wal-Mart quality enamel.