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What would you say to pulling the engine just to clean up the compartment. Is it that hard to do. If the engine runs good (needs rear main replaced) and you had it out, what are some things you could do to be preventive. Can you re-ring the thing without boring it? I would think if you honed the cylinder it would have better compression and more power. Valve job? Other than that what else could you do and is it worth it to put it back in. It's only time...
If you pull the motor, might want to also check/replace the timing gears and chain if it's got a lot of miles. Also, probably wouldn't hurt to check the valve springs while you're at it.
I'm thinking about pulling mine this winter too, for detailing (gotta pull the tranny and the hood for some unrelated work anyway). Seems like it would make the job a lot easier.
The engine shop that worked on my engine did a lot of tests on the engine without actually firing it up. They performed a leak down test, which involves pressurizing the head and measuring the pressure in the crankcase. For my engine the head was pressurized to 100 psi and the crankcase pressure read 9 psi. which translates to 9% leak down (which I was told is "tight").
They also performed a "sim test". This test involved connecting the crankshaft to an electric motor which turned by engine at about 600 rpm (by the way the spark plugs are removed). While it was turning the machinest was measuring compression of each cylinder and the valve covers were removed to check for proper oiling the heads.
This test is should be less than $100 and will tell you a great deal about the general condition of the motor. The only thing you have to overcome is transporting the engine to the machine shop. I used my little trailer and a used tire to carry my engine to the shop.
From: Exiled to Richmond, VA - Finally sold my house in Murfreesboro, TN ?? Corner of "Bumf*&k and 'You've got a purdy mouth'."
CI 6-7-8 Veteran
CI-VIII Burnout Champ
St. Jude Donor '06-'10, '13
Re: Pull the engine (80 Proof)
Here would be my list, if pulling and not rebuilding:
All possible gaskets and seals.
The timing chain.
Cam, lifters, springs.
Distributor gear.
Vacuum hoses
hose hoses
belts
oil pump
fuel pump.
Here would be my list, if pulling and not rebuilding:
All possible gaskets and seals.
The timing chain.
Cam, lifters, springs.
Distributor gear.
Vacuum hoses
hose hoses
belts
oil pump
fuel pump.
If it were me, i would replace the lower bearings and the oil pump. At least open it up and take a look inside to see the condition of the motor. I'd pull the heads to for the same reason, just to look inside. Then after inspecting it all, i would replace anything that looks like it might fail in the next 20,000 miles. :smash:
From: Exiled to Richmond, VA - Finally sold my house in Murfreesboro, TN ?? Corner of "Bumf*&k and 'You've got a purdy mouth'."
CI 6-7-8 Veteran
CI-VIII Burnout Champ
St. Jude Donor '06-'10, '13
Re: Pull the engine (Rhys)
Here would be my list, if pulling and not rebuilding:
All possible gaskets and seals.
The timing chain.
Cam, lifters, springs.
Distributor gear.
Vacuum hoses
hose hoses
belts
oil pump
fuel pump.
AT that point, why not rebuild it?
Because these are all items that can be replaced without having any machine work done. Most of these are "nickle and dime" items that are very easy to replace when the motor is out, but a real PITA when it is in the car. You don't have to do the cam, lifters and springs, but I highly recommend the others.
I agree with BSeery. Those are easy things to change and the cam will make a big difference if you have a stock one now. If the engine runs good and the compression is good I wouldn't take the heads off or mess with the lower end.
But, that's exactly what the previous owner did with my car.
He pulled the engine and:
detailed the engine compartment
took care of the hard to get A/C components
changed the oil pump
changed the fuel pump
changed the timing chain
pulled the valve covers for painting
changed all of the gaskets associated with the above
The result was a very nice looking engine & engine compartment, BUT, if it were me I'd rebuild the thing while I had it out.
As an absolute minimum, I'd go with Bseary's list.
78Dave, pulling an engine is about a 3 1/2 hour affair, if you have the hoist and engine stand, and a helper. On the other hand, the "as long as the engine is out" syndrome takes over. Why pull an engine to clean the engine compartment and not check: main bearing, valve stem seals & guides, water pump, oil pump, oops - I didn't mean to rebuild the whole darn engine ;) . I fell into this trap a few years ago when I pulled the extra tail lights that a PO had installed. I glassed over the are quite nicely and painted the area but I didn't like the paint match. Yep! Complete strip and repaint along with new weatherstrips, emblems, and carpet. :eek:
Because these are all items that can be replaced without having any machine work done. Most of these are "nickle and dime" items that are very easy to replace when the motor is out, but a real PITA when it is in the car. You don't have to do the cam, lifters and springs, but I highly recommend the others.
I guess that we'll disagree then. In my mind, why take the risk of pulling it again very soon because of bad rings or something else. I would do it all at once.
That's exactly how my project started (11/98), and things got crazy after the engine came out like:
Gee, why don't I do the suspension, it's so easy to get to now, hell, while I'm at it, might as well do the rear susp too, and since I need interior and paint, screw it, let's take the body off and make sure it handles nicely with all new mounts, etc., and since it will cost a couple grand to do the engine & trans the way I want, why not find one out of a 94-96 and get with the 90's......the list continues.......but the end is in sight, finally, maybe one more year, probably two.
I also fell into the pull the engine and clean the compartment trap. I ended up stripping the front frame, changing all the suspension and steering. New brake system and front radiator support. The worse thing was that my engine ran perfect and only had leaky valve seals. I ended up having the engine rebuilt 3 times due to a bad engine shop which was a shop with a very good reputation. I had to install my engine three times and go through the break in period only to find the engine burning excessive oil . The third time was a different shop and they found that the cylinders were out of round. I would recomend a crate engine as most shops will not take responsibility for their mistakes. I don't even want to get into the sagga of using the centerforce clutch and pulling the tranny six times.
You never can just pull it to clean it. It just goes on and on. I stripped everything down to the short block and simple greened the $%^% out of it. Repainted and laq. thinnered everything. Put it back together with a couple of mods and done.
Once you remove all the acc. and exhaust everything is easy to reach.
Goodluck
Pull the engine II - Thanks all who replied. I have to say I agree with the pull it and see that goes on and on. A 3.5 hour job takes 2 years to finish. It's the old boy brain thing that I just have to take it apart.
I am in the same boat. However I know what I have in store for myself. I have just finished restoring a '67 camaro. Nothing is what it seems on the surface. Plan for there to be problems and situations you normally wouldn't plan for.
If you just want to clean the engine compartment, great. Keep in mind you may find wiring harnesses that need to be replaced, A/C parts that need to be replaced (and since you need to replace some parts why not upgrade) and how much detailing are you talking about? Cleaning or cleaning and repainting? Custom repainting or stock?
I guess what I am saying is be prepared for the hidden "dangers" that lurk under them waves and have a clear plan and budget in mind. It is easy to spend big $$ and time to a project that "just needs one more thing".