Volt VS Amp Gage
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 495
Likes: 0
From: ma
Volt VS Amp Gage
When I bought my 74 the amp gage was not working. Replaced it with a voltage gage from a 78 or 79. Now I"m replacing my hoses for the vacuum system and have the dash apart. I tested the amp gage and to my surprise I found that it works after all ! Originaly I found the wires to it cut.Would you reinstall it or go with the voltage gage instead? Which in you opinion is more accurate,or provides more information.Anyone? Any preferances? :confused:
Race Director
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 11,520
Likes: 13
From: CORVETTE 77 385 C.I. TEXAS
Re: Volt VS Amp Gage (rdrman)
The volt guage is better. It can show when the battery is bad. I don't have a strong preference. If you don't care about your clock, you could install both w/ voltage in clock position.
:cheers:
:cheers:
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Re: Volt VS Amp Gage (rdrman)
The most effective way for a charging system to charge is through a large direct wire to the battery positive post. The vet sends the charge through a number 10 wire to the amp gage on the dash then through another #10 wire to the battery. This is not the best idea. That #10 is very restrictive. New cars usually run a direct #6 or so directly from the alternator to the battery. No resistance. When I installed my 140 amp alternator they told me to run a #6 from the alternator to the positive post on the battery so the easiest way was to the heavy wire on the starter motor. Since I have a remote solenoid that has the large cable on one side I ran to this heavy starter battery wire on the positive side of the battery. There is no resistance with a #6. A number ten is only rated at 40 amps max so how can a 100 amp alternator expect to send this charge through that small a wire.The resistance is too high. This move does render the ammeter usless.
Norval
Norval
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 866
Likes: 1
From: Peabody,MA,USA
Re: Volt VS Amp Gage (norvalwilhelm)
The volt gauge requires only a small wire since it has a high impediance and it really doesn't pull any current. I agree with norvalwilhelh about the wire to the alternator and battery.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 495
Likes: 0
From: ma
Re: Volt VS Amp Gage (427V8)
Had to modifie the back as one has the terminals in a vertical arangment while the other one was horizontal, really an easy job as long you take your time to drill the 2 holes correctly and reuse the insulaters :cheers:
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,273
Likes: 14
From: Austin TX
Re: Volt VS Amp Gage (norvalwilhelm)
So, Norval,
If I have a 95 amp alternator with an OE wire harness and an amp gauge, I cannot get the juice to the battery or users (such as headlights) due to the 10 gauge wire choking it down?
And a 6 gauge wire from alt to starter batt lead terminal will allow full 95 amps to get to the battery?
Thanks
If I have a 95 amp alternator with an OE wire harness and an amp gauge, I cannot get the juice to the battery or users (such as headlights) due to the 10 gauge wire choking it down?
And a 6 gauge wire from alt to starter batt lead terminal will allow full 95 amps to get to the battery?
Thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
Re: Volt VS Amp Gage (rdrman)
UHH, guys, you all seem to be forgetting how the car is harnessed up, the alt goes to the tiepoint on the fender, horn relay...that wire should be #8 or better... now from that point the wire going to the battery at the starter can be #10 easy...as it's just a charge wire, and in fact has a fuse link in it...
gotta take the harness apart to see it...too boot on my '72 the harness has a splice to thinner hi temp insulated wire, due to exhaust....you really don't want to dump all that much power all at once into a battery anyway, causes problems if the battery is weak/failed....
now off the horn relay is pulled about 5-6 other stock factory wires....going everywhere, and on MY car, even more for amps, computer FI, etc....
my engine cooling fan goes direct to my alternator, through the relay of course...
the voltmeter should be run to instrumentation ground, and to the two wires from the ampmeter, that are connected together, so that's in effect 2 wires there...
to positive voltmeter....
GM wiring diagrams are hard to follow in recuced sizes we get, OH for a D size drawing....damn eyes, can't see for poopie anymore....;-(((
GENE
gotta take the harness apart to see it...too boot on my '72 the harness has a splice to thinner hi temp insulated wire, due to exhaust....you really don't want to dump all that much power all at once into a battery anyway, causes problems if the battery is weak/failed....
now off the horn relay is pulled about 5-6 other stock factory wires....going everywhere, and on MY car, even more for amps, computer FI, etc....
my engine cooling fan goes direct to my alternator, through the relay of course...
the voltmeter should be run to instrumentation ground, and to the two wires from the ampmeter, that are connected together, so that's in effect 2 wires there...
to positive voltmeter....
GM wiring diagrams are hard to follow in recuced sizes we get, OH for a D size drawing....damn eyes, can't see for poopie anymore....;-(((
GENE
