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Forced to replace master cylinder + lines.

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Old Sep 27, 2001 | 11:41 PM
  #1  
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Default Forced to replace master cylinder + lines.

Well i got a new master cylinder and lines as the old ones were pretty much done. The calipers are also a bit old and i think i should get them replaced ASAP with fresher ones- to avoid possible seizing. I might as well get the whole brake system out of the way, at least for safety's sake. I found this caliper kit... which looks very nice to me. I know the whole caliper isn't stainless- just sleeved. Anyone have any experience with this kit? Comments suggestions? http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/...&carYear=75-82

It's the caliper kit, -A109

I know y'all told me to wait before i did anything... but as they say, safety first.

THanks
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Old Sep 27, 2001 | 11:44 PM
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Default Re: Forced to replace master cylinder + lines. (Jenny)

go with the force10's they got rave reviews in a recent magazine article I read. Aluminum never rusts :D
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Old Sep 27, 2001 | 11:45 PM
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Default Re: Forced to replace master cylinder + lines. (Jenny)

You'll really like the stainless calipers....the one's on my Vette have been on for almost 15 years, and still work like new.

AC
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Old Sep 27, 2001 | 11:49 PM
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Default Re: Forced to replace master cylinder + lines. (Jenny)

Jenny,

I have no experience with this kit, but just wanted to suggest an alternative: you could save some $$$ getting a caliper kit from Muskegon Brake. They are very reputable and have great prices--many forum members have had good experiences with them.
http://muskegonbrake.com

-Pedro
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Old Sep 27, 2001 | 11:51 PM
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Default Re: Forced to replace master cylinder + lines. (Gameshow Bob)

I think that is a bit top dollar for me Especially since that price is only for one axle. When i bought the car, i knew i'd have around 800-1K dollars of initial work to do to the car as soon as i got it. I also understand that Aluminum dissipates heat better... mmm but they are unfortunately not in my budget right now. There are other things that need worked on before i can come to terms with a set of 2000 dollar brakes... Why not shell out a bit more and get Wilwood . Is there a big difference between the calipers w/ stainless and non-stainless pistons? Advantages? :confused:
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Old Sep 27, 2001 | 11:55 PM
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Default Re: Forced to replace master cylinder + lines. (Jenny)

Well, All c3 corvettes came from the factory without the stainless brakes, and all c3 corvettes have brake problems. So I would go with the stainless if I were you.
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Old Sep 27, 2001 | 11:57 PM
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Default Re: Forced to replace master cylinder + lines. (Gameshow Bob)

Well, All c3 corvettes came from the factory without the stainless brakes, and all c3 corvettes have brake problems. So I would go with the stainless if I were you.
What do you mean by this... ones are stainless sleeved, the others are the same plus Stainless pistons... can you elaborate?
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Old Sep 28, 2001 | 12:03 AM
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Default Re: Forced to replace master cylinder + lines. (Jenny)

Well, on stock calipers (mine anyway), the piston sleeves would rot out where the O rings sat, so with stainless sleeves you won't get that. The factory pistons are aluminum, so I don't see how they could rot. I am not really sure what the advantage of stainless pistons would be :confused: ? I suppose they are stronger, but I haven't heard of many piston failures.

AC
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Old Sep 28, 2001 | 12:04 AM
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Default Re: Forced to replace master cylinder + lines. (Jenny)

Oh, hrm... I didn't know there were different types of pistons :bb I would assume It would be better to have the stainless pistons as well, how much better I don't know. Whatever you find out let me know, cause I think I'll be replacing the fronts on my car pretty soon as well. When you do all of this brake work I've heard good things about using the DOT5 silicon brake fluid vs the DOT3. DOT5 is supposed to prevent your system from corroding.
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Old Sep 28, 2001 | 12:07 AM
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Default Re: Forced to replace master cylinder + lines. (Gameshow Bob)

OK i will let you know, and i've heard the same about the brake fluid
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Old Sep 28, 2001 | 12:20 AM
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Default Re: Forced to replace master cylinder + lines. (Jenny)

Jenny,
You might consider the Vette Brakes Stainless sleeved calipers BUT with the o-ring pistons. It looks like Stainless Steel brake corp wants an extra $200 for the stainless piston option a-109 vs a-109s (definately NOT worth it) ...redvetracr

PS; stay away from silycone fluid also, another over priced hype item.
PS2: If anyone needs a master for power brakes i have one with about 30 minutes on it.



[Modified by redvetracr, 10:21 PM 9/27/2001]
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Old Sep 28, 2001 | 09:10 AM
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Default Re: Forced to replace master cylinder + lines. (Jenny)

Jenny -- There are two kinds of C3 drivers -- those who have already changed to stainless steel sleeved calipers and those who need to and will eventually have to do it. My advice is to check the aftermarket providers for prices on a kit to do all four calipers at once. You should include new brake hoses. Save your old cailpers for cores.

Buy a set of good flare nut wrenches BEFORE doing serious brake work. They are about the only safe way to loosen brake system fittings without rounding off the shoulders of the fitting. An ample supply of Liquid Wrench or WD-40 will also help.
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Old Sep 28, 2001 | 10:49 AM
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Default Re: Forced to replace master cylinder + lines. (Jenny)

I just replaced all four calipers, pads, pins, rubber lines, fluid, and master cylinder. All but the master cylinder were from Vette Brakes. I'm very happy with them and they have stainless steel piston sleeves.

Definately follow Easy Mike's advice. The whole job was pretty streight forward but did take a little time.

Good luck
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Old Sep 28, 2001 | 11:34 AM
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Default Re: Forced to replace master cylinder + lines. (majglc)

Jenny, if you have ss sleeved calipers I would reccommend getting O-ring pistons and seals and do the rebuild yourself. It was cheap, easy and the o-ring pistons really seal well. What happened to make you think you need to replace everything?
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Old Sep 28, 2001 | 12:42 PM
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Default Re: Forced to replace master cylinder + lines. (Gameshow Bob)

Oh, hrm... I didn't know there were different types of pistons :bb I would assume It would be better to have the stainless pistons as well, how much better I don't know. Whatever you find out let me know, cause I think I'll be replacing the fronts on my car pretty soon as well. When you do all of this brake work I've heard good things about using the DOT5 silicon brake fluid vs the DOT3. DOT5 is supposed to prevent your system from corroding.
Do NOT use DOT 5. DOT 5 is not compatible with the DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids. DOT 5 is mainly intended for show cars where you are worried about damaging paint and having the car sit without being driven for a very long time. DOT 5 will compress under pressure unlike DOT 3 and DOT 4, which causes your brakes to be somewhat spongy and not as effective. My advice would be to use DOT 4 (no danger mixing with DOT 3) and to change the fluid if it looks bad.
I'd flush the system completely using DOT4 as a replacement (bleed the brakes until the new fluid gets to all of the calipers) before putting on the new calipers. This will ensure that no debris from the old system (rust flakes and dirt) will make it into the new calipers. You will then need to bleed the air from the new calipers once you put them on, but that won't be difficult since there will only be a small amount of air.

Cordially,
-dath
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Old Sep 28, 2001 | 05:16 PM
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Default Re: Forced to replace master cylinder + lines. (dath)

Do NOT use DOT 5. DOT 5 is not compatible with the DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids. DOT 5 is mainly intended for show cars where you are worried about damaging paint and having the car sit without being driven for a very long time. DOT 5 will compress under pressure unlike DOT 3 and DOT 4, which causes your brakes to be somewhat spongy and not as effective. My advice would be to use DOT 4 (no danger mixing with DOT 3) and to change the fluid if it looks bad.
I'd flush the system completely using DOT4 as a replacement (bleed the brakes until the new fluid gets to all of the calipers) before putting on the new calipers. This will ensure that no debris from the old system (rust flakes and dirt) will make it into the new calipers. You will then need to bleed the air from the new calipers once you put them on, but that won't be difficult since there will only be a small amount of air.

Cordially,
-dath
Yea, by no means mix them, but since the entire system was apart anyways, I figured it would be a good time to convert. http://home.att.net/~ncarboni/NC82.html Noel Carboni recommends it, the restoration guide that I have recommends it, and both say that you *shouldn't* have a spongey brake feel if you do it right.
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