frame jig
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 232
Likes: 0
From: Henrietta New York
frame jig
Here is a few pics. of the frame jig thus far. Mounts 1 & 2 will be the same as 3 & 4 when I mount the front 1/2. Can anyone tell me why the sleeve in 1 of the pics has such a large gap? The drivers side fits snug all the way around? Need adivce before I continue.
thanks
thanks
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,008
Likes: 38
From: Space Coast Gator Territory
Both the frame and your sleeve are made from two welded pieces. It appears one or the other was welded too wide or too narrow. I'd fit the sleeve to the front half to be grafted and adjust the sleeve to worst fit end. If the gap exists on both ends of the sleeve where it mates the frame sections, then you have identified the problem as the sleeve. Grind the welds to free the pieces and adjust the frame/sleeve for proper fit before re-welding.
You have gone through some trouble making that jig, it looks purdy good. Keep the pictures and progress reports coming.
You have gone through some trouble making that jig, it looks purdy good. Keep the pictures and progress reports coming.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 44
From: flemington n.j.
You may have defective sleeve. I would order new sleeve from Caledonia Classic 888-245-5224 ( they manufacture replacement frame parts for Corvettes ) and see how the new sleeve fits. 2'' sleeve is about $15.00 and 6" is about $18.00. I just finished the same project that you are working on and purchased all my parts from them. Caledonia frame parts fit properly and are quality parts.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 232
Likes: 0
From: Henrietta New York
Thanks thus far for the feedback. I don't think the issue is the sleeves. I have 2 of them. They are identical in dimensions all the way around. They both fit the drivers side rail snug. I am wondering if the dent in the bottom of the pass. side rail is the issue. THe typical type. nothing real major. Is it OK to heat it up and flatten it our abit?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,008
Likes: 38
From: Space Coast Gator Territory
From what I can see, it doesn't look like just hammering on a dent will make much difference in the gap. You may need to grind the bottom frame welds to draw the halves tight to the sleeve with some clamps. I'd drill several holes for plug welds holding the sleeve to the frame.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,028
Likes: 2
From: North NJ
Very impressive
Why are you doing this? are you customizing a frame or just trying to build a complete one? wouldn't it be cheaper/easier/more exact to just buy a full donor frame???
I'm sure you have your reasons but I was just curious. Nice job with the jig.
Why are you doing this? are you customizing a frame or just trying to build a complete one? wouldn't it be cheaper/easier/more exact to just buy a full donor frame???
I'm sure you have your reasons but I was just curious. Nice job with the jig.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 232
Likes: 0
From: Henrietta New York
After a major computer crash, I'm back up. Reason for the jig is to weld 2 good frame 1/2 together to make one. Have been trying to find a good frame for my 81. Cost with shipping thus far is outrageous. Compared to my current efforts.(all steel for the jig was free). Still struggling with the gap issue in the pic. It gets better. Rear 1/2 in the jig... Pass. side in pic has the gap I ask about, Pass side front 1/2 no gap with sleeve installed. Drivers side rear 1/2 no gap as explained earlier. Drivers side front 1/2 has the same gap. What is going on?? Has anyone seen this in splicing? Please help if so..
Thanks
Thanks
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,991
Likes: 3
From: Piscataway NJ
Twist in the rail?
Sleeve not welded right? When I reframed my 73 it was a whole lot easier to get a doner frame. I was going to splice and decided it wasn't the way to go. The two splice sleeves sill reside under my bed. I do admire your efforts.
Sleeve not welded right? When I reframed my 73 it was a whole lot easier to get a doner frame. I was going to splice and decided it wasn't the way to go. The two splice sleeves sill reside under my bed. I do admire your efforts.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 232
Likes: 0
From: Henrietta New York
Well,
After splitting the rail splice this AM and sliding the outside 1/2 into the pictured rail, I now have been able to confirm the issue. On the bottom side of the frame rail is a typical dent from a jack or something. Pushing the bottom side up abit. Not much but just enough. When you slide the splice part in, the dent pushes the end in towards the center of the rail. I see two possible fixes. Either heat up the bottom rail and flatten the dent out or with the splice split, Bend the bottom lip up abit to compensate for the dent forcing it out. Any reason why I cannot heat it up a little and flatten the dent out? I'd rather do this if I can. I'll try to post a pic. later and it will be evident that this is the issue. Please advise on the heating question.
Thanks alot
After splitting the rail splice this AM and sliding the outside 1/2 into the pictured rail, I now have been able to confirm the issue. On the bottom side of the frame rail is a typical dent from a jack or something. Pushing the bottom side up abit. Not much but just enough. When you slide the splice part in, the dent pushes the end in towards the center of the rail. I see two possible fixes. Either heat up the bottom rail and flatten the dent out or with the splice split, Bend the bottom lip up abit to compensate for the dent forcing it out. Any reason why I cannot heat it up a little and flatten the dent out? I'd rather do this if I can. I'll try to post a pic. later and it will be evident that this is the issue. Please advise on the heating question.
Thanks alot
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,028
Likes: 2
From: North NJ
First, I must commend you on your efforts and skill, no way would I be able to do all that on my own. But if this is the foundation of the vehicle that will be carrying me at high speeds I personally would feel more comfortable with a complete frame and would shell out the extra $$ in the name of safety and to remove the pain staking process of spec'n everything out.
Besides your avatar looks like your going back to stock which would help the value of the car but having two diff frames won't.
Just my two cents.
If you heat the metal you need a way to push the dent out, I don't know if you could get enough leverage to push the dent out. If the dent is on a welded area the welds might pop too.
Last edited by 68 NJConv 454; Dec 29, 2006 at 01:25 PM.
