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The double offset just moves the spring mount in. The trailing arm is the same it is just for cars with shortened springs like mine. I will probably get a set when the new ones come out in double offset.
From: WAY DEEP INSIDE AMERICO,YES YOU LIVE HERE TO!! TX
Originally Posted by Gordonm
The double offset just moves the spring mount in. The trailing arm is the same it is just for cars with shortened springs like mine. I will probably get a set when the new ones come out in double offset.
Well that sucks!! I want to ge a 6 1/2 B/S on my rear wheels
What is the difference with them both and how much more
room does the DBL offset give..
I have vansteel offsets, but keep hearing about these DBL offsets..
Anyone have a picture so I can compare???
I went with Van steel's double off-sets, really heavy duty stuff. I also got a VPB 2" shortened spring to match this, It just takes the spring out of the clearance equation, I went with 5.5 B/S and have about a 1/2" clearance left.
From: WAY DEEP INSIDE AMERICO,YES YOU LIVE HERE TO!! TX
Originally Posted by gyopp
Meg, you and Dean goin all out end to end? Whats up, hit the lottery?
I always work on my own car, and never let anyone help.
When I met Dean, he had the exact same passion for the
ideas I had on my car. Its kinda hard to find friends like that!!
We are gonna build 2 of the wildest street vettes we can come up with.
As for winning the lotto, No not yet , but I guess we both have decent
jobs to support our hobby
Meg, I have the double offsets from VS. Not the new version. I wish I had the new version just b/c it uses stock bushing size. The only diff is the Double offsets move the spring mounting inboard 1". Like mentioned this takes the spring out from hitting the tire sidewall. When you run 17" or larger rims the spring can fit inside the rim so you don't really need to angle it inboard...unless you have ride height problems and run a longer spring bolt. I want my car low and with big wheels so I opted for the double offsets and a longer 10" spring bolt so I can adjust the car ride height low. Like mentioned here and in your other post, the frame will have to be notched or posibly relocated.
They had an episode of Hot Rod tv where they welded square tube to a frame in the direction it needed to be notched, welded it real good along side of the frame and then cut out the portion to be notched so the welded area became the frame for that area. Sounds like it would work in your case as long as you can figure out your diff batwing mounts. Hope you don't have to cut up the Double Offset TA's if you get them. Moving the TA bushing mount would cause hell on your rear setup. With proper frame reloaction and maybe some fiberglassin (like 78Vette-SA did in his Frankensport) you should be able to get'er'done.
I'm trying not to think like that just yet
Most likely it will come down to that
Cutting the trailing arm is really simple. Add the offset to the back of the trialing arm in the location you want and then cut out the front wall.
Remember your back wall becomes your new front so the offset is equal to the width of the trailing arm in this location. It honestly takes only an hour or so to modify a trailing arm.