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How much do lifters weigh???

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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 03:32 PM
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Default How much do lifters weigh???

Did a search couldn't find anything!!
Going with a retro hydralic roller setup in my 383 build. Trying to figure out the weight of each pair retro hydralic rollers as compared to a pair of retro solid rollers and again compared to a pair regular hydralic lifters. Happy New Year...Mark
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 04:44 PM
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I am just curious why would you know this. I just happen to have a Speed Pro HT5000RA on my desk. Don't have scale to weigh it
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 04:46 PM
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My Comp ProMag hyd rollers are 4 1/4oz each.
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 04:48 PM
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Default How much do lifters weight?

Hmmmm, I dunno...Maybe 150 pounds. Just a guess




















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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 05:12 PM
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16 red zone solid lifters brand new with links weighs 4.4 pounds. YOu do the math for a pair
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 05:30 PM
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I have a set of Schneider Racing solid lifters. One lifter weighs 3oz or 90gm.
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Artsvette73
I am just curious why would you know this. I just happen to have a Speed Pro HT5000RA on my desk. Don't have scale to weigh it

Well I am continiously told that the hydralic rollers are much heavier than flat tappet lifters, that most roller motors won't spin mush past 6K. This is from folks trying to talk me out using roller lifters. I think the benefits far out weigh the downside. This is fine for me I plan on being all in by 5500 prm.
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
16 red zone solid lifters brand new with links weighs 4.4 pounds. YOu do the math for a pair
thanks Norval, looks like the retro solid rollers are at 4.4 lbs for 8 pairs with the link bars which equals 4.25 oz each vs 3 oz for flat tappet solids.
How much more for hydralics??
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Old Dec 30, 2006 | 10:39 AM
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I don't think it's the weight of the lifter that limits your top end rpm (solely). The ability of the lifter to stay 'pumped up' has a lot more to do with it and at around 6k hydraulics tend to start having problems. If you're not planning to run over 6k or so,then a Hydra-Rev is good insurance. If you really want to go higher than 6k often, then you'd better use solids. From what I understand, the setup work is minimal.
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Old Dec 30, 2006 | 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by ratflinger
My Comp ProMag hyd rollers are 4 1/4oz each.
Doing over 300 units per year, this particular question caught my eye. For the general public it's not your everyday run of the mill question. However to myself, being in this business for a living, this question is very high "up-the-ladder" for me. We record the weights, and also dimensions, for just about every part number we touch. Valves, springs, lifters, pushrods, retainers, etc. You get the idea! The subtle difference in the weight of a steel retainer over a titanium piece could be the difference between getting to the RPM band or not!

The weight-factor's can give us a good idea of where we can get the RPM band up to, and with the hyd-rollers this is a most critical number for us. Between the dyno test's and the installed components we sort of get a "print" of where we can go.

Using hyd-roller retro's we have SB's at 7000 RPM with no issues and we have BB's at 6600 RPM and STILL haven't used the "Bee-Hives". That's for future testing. I had a conversation recently with a local shop using these on the "new" Vettes. Street-cars in the 8's in the quarter. They were having issues with the RPM band and solved it with these spring. We haven't needed them to date, but that may change!

I wanted to answer to the quote above:

DO NOT use the "Pro-Magnums" in street cars. They are not meant for that purpose. They were designed for another purpose, not here! The fact is long before the lifter will "pump-up" it will leave the lobe just by it's sheer weight. Remember, we're talking hyd-rollers here. We do use Comp's, but we stay with the 853's and 854's ONLY. These part numbers have taken us to the RPM's I mentioned above and as I also stated, without the "Bee-hives" to date. At the point you reach 7000 RPM in a SB stroker you're usually way past the power band. Again, in street-cars! There are variations here, but we're assuming NOT a drag car! Hope it helps some. Thanks Gary in N.Y.

P.S. mbeeman350:

A pair of Comp SB 853's (retro-hyd with the "captured" link bar) weighs about 286 grams.

A pair of Comp BB 854's (retro-hyd also with a "captured" link bar) comes in at 290 grams.

A single Johnson SB/BB 817 std hydraulic is about 98 grams.

A single Johnson 817R anti-pump hydraulic is about 100 grams.

A single Johnson SB/BB 992 solid is about 90 grams.

A pair of Comp SB/BB 818/819 solid rollers come in at about 242 with the link bars.
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Old Dec 30, 2006 | 11:59 PM
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Default

Originally Posted by GOSFAST
Doing over 300 units per year, this particular question caught my eye. For the general public it's not your everyday run of the mill question. However to myself, being in this business for a living, this question is very high "up-the-ladder" for me. We record the weights, and also dimensions, for just about every part number we touch. Valves, springs, lifters, pushrods, retainers, etc. You get the idea! The subtle difference in the weight of a steel retainer over a titanium piece could be the difference between getting to the RPM band or not!

The weight-factor's can give us a good idea of where we can get the RPM band up to, and with the hyd-rollers this is a most critical number for us. Between the dyno test's and the installed components we sort of get a "print" of where we can go.

Using hyd-roller retro's we have SB's at 7000 RPM with no issues and we have BB's at 6600 RPM and STILL haven't used the "Bee-Hives". That's for future testing. I had a conversation recently with a local shop using these on the "new" Vettes. Street-cars in the 8's in the quarter. They were having issues with the RPM band and solved it with these spring. We haven't needed them to date, but that may change!

I wanted to answer to the quote above:

DO NOT use the "Pro-Magnums" in street cars. They are not meant for that purpose. They were designed for another purpose, not here! The fact is long before the lifter will "pump-up" it will leave the lobe just by it's sheer weight. Remember, we're talking hyd-rollers here. We do use Comp's, but we stay with the 853's and 854's ONLY. These part numbers have taken us to the RPM's I mentioned above and as I also stated, without the "Bee-hives" to date. At the point you reach 7000 RPM in a SB stroker you're usually way past the power band. Again, in street-cars! There are variations here, but we're assuming NOT a drag car! Hope it helps some. Thanks Gary in N.Y.

P.S. mbeeman350:

A pair of Comp SB 853's (retro-hyd with the "captured" link bar) weighs about 286 grams.

A pair of Comp BB 854's (retro-hyd also with a "captured" link bar) comes in at 290 grams.

A single Johnson SB/BB 817 std hydraulic is about 98 grams.

A single Johnson 817R anti-pump hydraulic is about 100 grams.

A single Johnson SB/BB 992 solid is about 90 grams.

A pair of Comp SB/BB 818/819 solid rollers come in at about 242 with the link bars.
Thanks GOFAST, I am using the Comp 853's. With my set up I am done at 5500 rpm. My limitations are the intake (hood clearance) ram horn exhaust (for the stock sleeper look) and I do not won't to grenade the original matching #'s block.
Because I don't do this but about once every 30 years. I have tried to research, record and chart everything...from width of contact area on the valves and valve seats, spring heights, the weight of a valve, spring, retainer, keeper as an assembly and so on.
The short block is being prepared and build by a profeesional machine / race shop engine builder. I could do it...but I just want it right the first time and have a "no excuses" set up. I am building the heads and will comple the engine and reinstall in the car. Time is an issue for me. Travel in my job, divorced, single parent, have a house to take car and now aging parents that do not drive. So I find myself paying for things and services that I would never would have years ago...
Happy New Year to all
Mark
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