Lakewood scattershield

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Jan 1, 2007 | 11:50 AM

3X2

Thread Starter

Melting Slicks

Joined: Jan 2000

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From: home

Lakewood scattershield

Anyone using a scattershield on their C3? I'm thinking of getting one when I replace the clutch. Any problems with the scattershield not fitting the car without hittting anything? What about the clutch fork? I was told that the fork would hit the tunnel and needed to be notched. Also, what clutch stud did you use- the short one or the longer one? Thanks.

Mark

Jan 1, 2007 | 12:05 PM

gkull

Team Owner

Joined: Apr 1999

Posts: 21,953

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From: Reno Nevada

2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified

My LakeWood came with the Keisler kit. I would recommend the longer ball. I think that is the problem with mine.

If the fork ball is short it would require adjusting the the firewall to cross shaft bar to near its max adjustment like I have to. I considered making the lower rod longer to take up some adjustment. I didn't know about a longer fork ball stud

Jan 1, 2007 | 12:10 PM

3X2

Thread Starter

Melting Slicks

Joined: Jan 2000

Posts: 3,326

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From: home

Thanks for the fast reply. I'm looking at Lakewood's p/n 15000 for use with the stock Muncie. They list an adjustable stud. Did you follow the GM procedure for adjusting the clutch? I decided on a McLeod stret twin disc clutch, but I "think" the proper method of adjusting it is with a feeler gauge to check the clearence betwwen the discs and pressure plates. I don't think there's any access holes on the scttershield- or the stock bellhousing either- do do this. Trial and error?

Mark

Jan 1, 2007 | 12:12 PM

GTR1999

Tech Contributor

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From: Connecticut, USA

Don't forget to put an indicator in the crank and index the shield with a 360* sweep.

Jan 1, 2007 | 12:17 PM

73C34me

Burning Brakes

Joined: Jun 2005

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From: laingsburg MI

2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified

I used the short ball... i had to notch the fire wall slightly. I lengthed the rod & other bandaide fixes. I have the motor tranny & body off the car now. But, when it goes together I will use the longer ball stud. As it was clutch adjustment was a problem. The bell housing was close, but cleared on my 73. If 72 & earlier models have thinner body mount cushions(?) this could aggrevate the clearance issues.

Jan 1, 2007 | 12:18 PM

3X2

Thread Starter

Melting Slicks

Joined: Jan 2000

Posts: 3,326

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From: home

Quote:

Originally Posted by GTR1999

Don't forget to put an indicator in the crank and index the shield with a 360* sweep.

Thanks for reminding me of that. Dial indicate the openig while rotating the crank to see if offset dowels need to be installed and also dial indicate the trans mounting face to make sure it is parallel is the flywheel. Is this correct?

Mark

Jan 1, 2007 | 12:30 PM

Gordonm

Race Director

Joined: Dec 1999

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From: Forked River NJ

I have one with an adjustable ball. You have to mocj it up and adjust it. I then pulled it out and welded the ball stud so it would not move. It has been in there like that for a few years. No notching of the firewall was needed. It is tight but does not hit. You will have to cut off the bracket on the bell housing but that is minor.

Jan 1, 2007 | 12:50 PM

gkull

Team Owner

Joined: Apr 1999

Posts: 21,953

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From: Reno Nevada

2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3X2

The Lakewood I have has a driver side access. The proper adjustment is to have the fork/throw out bearing nearly touching the the clutch fingers.

I have the 22# billet steel fly with an 11 inch 650+ foot pound clutch. No need for hydro at all