Restoring Original Nuts and Bolts
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,583
Likes: 5
From: Richardson Tx.
Restoring Original Nuts and Bolts
While I have the rear suspension all apart I have wire brushed all the gunk off all of them so that they are bare metal again. The rains came one night, got them wet and they have already started to show rust. What do people do to recoat old nuts and bolts so that they don't turn ugly when holding it the nice shiny pieces? I suppose that I could paint them but I am not sure that would hold up. I have heard of plating but am not very familiar with it. Can I just drop of my nuts and bolts off to a plater to have them redone?
thanks
thanks
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 4,183
Likes: 1,178
From: out of nowhere
You can do that (plate them = expensive), or just spray them with clear. I forget who, but someone makes a rattle can clear with UV inhibitors so it doesn't yellow. I've started replacing bolts on my car with stainless when possible.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,363
Likes: 303
From: Lansdale 19446 PA
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Unmodified
St. Jude Donor '10-'11, '15, '19
I've use this stuff on many parts including bolts, aluminum valve covers and wheels. Everything looks like new. It is not cheap but it is in the long run when you consider re-doing your parts.
John
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 4,183
Likes: 1,178
From: out of nowhere
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
Likes: 9
have them plated, it's not expensive at all, just realize that you always have to pay for running the drum w/ just your stuff so get as much stuff in there as possible, it'll cost the same. I have had all my old bolts and misc hardware plated (even loads of metric bolts that were just black oxide coated) and they come out excellent. Remove any paint or other grime on the bolts (sulphuric acid should do the trick)
Sure looks better than rust... and for suspension pieces, I would not use stainless bolts at all.
Sure looks better than rust... and for suspension pieces, I would not use stainless bolts at all.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,422
Likes: 792
From: Redondo Beach, California
Vibrator bowls are supposed to be good to clean bolts. Eastwoods has, I think, a sale on them. I've never used one buy I'm tempted to buy one. I too have a great big stack of bolts pulled on my 68 that need to be cleaned and retreated.
Eastwoods also sells chemical blackening agents for steel. I'm not sure if it's as good as the professional blackening process. I used some of Eastwoods blachening chemical, but it didn't appear to be as good as the factory quality. (Could be wrong.)
I've replaced most of my bolts, in the suspension, with new grade 8 gold cad bolts. There's a few suspension bolts were you need to use the factory bolts (my opinion). For instance, the bolts that attach the lower control arm support bar to the frame; also I like the factory trailing arm bolts better than the repro bolts. These bolts have longer shanks (unthreaded shaft portions) than standard bolts, and hence I think they have a snugger fit.
Eastwoods also sells chemical blackening agents for steel. I'm not sure if it's as good as the professional blackening process. I used some of Eastwoods blachening chemical, but it didn't appear to be as good as the factory quality. (Could be wrong.)
I've replaced most of my bolts, in the suspension, with new grade 8 gold cad bolts. There's a few suspension bolts were you need to use the factory bolts (my opinion). For instance, the bolts that attach the lower control arm support bar to the frame; also I like the factory trailing arm bolts better than the repro bolts. These bolts have longer shanks (unthreaded shaft portions) than standard bolts, and hence I think they have a snugger fit.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,640
Likes: 287
From: Ann Arbor Michigan
Vibrator bowls are supposed to be good to clean bolts. Eastwoods has, I think, a sale on them. I've never used one buy I'm tempted to buy one. I too have a great big stack of bolts pulled on my 68 that need to be cleaned and retreated.
Eastwoods also sells chemical blackening agents for steel. I'm not sure if it's as good as the professional blackening process. I used some of Eastwoods blachening chemical, but it didn't appear to be as good as the factory quality. (Could be wrong.)
Eastwoods also sells chemical blackening agents for steel. I'm not sure if it's as good as the professional blackening process. I used some of Eastwoods blachening chemical, but it didn't appear to be as good as the factory quality. (Could be wrong.)
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,640
Likes: 287
From: Ann Arbor Michigan
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...erID=49&KICKER
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,363
Likes: 303
From: Lansdale 19446 PA
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Unmodified
St. Jude Donor '10-'11, '15, '19
It sure is. From what I understand, it gets harder with age and doesn't shine or dull what you spray with it. My first job using Nyalic was a new set of aluminum valve covers on my 69. They still look new today. No fading or dulling and they are easier to clean off. Nothing sticks to it.
I will say - make sure you are in a well ventalated area when you use it. Costs about $30 a can but well worth it!
I will say - make sure you are in a well ventalated area when you use it. Costs about $30 a can but well worth it!
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,422
Likes: 792
From: Redondo Beach, California
Any comments from the National Bolt Thread Restorers Society? ....Or anyone? Thanks!!!!!
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
As far as tumbling/vibrating is concerned, there is a lot of different media available depending on the finish desired. The ratio of media and product is also a consideration. Sometimes the tumbler is used with a acidic solution or just straight water too. It get's into a real science when production work is involved.
As Twin_Turbo stated giving a plater a 5 gal bucket of bolts is dirt cheap. Around here, it can be had for 50 to 60 bucks, min charge, the problem usually is having enough to make it worthwhile.
As Twin_Turbo stated giving a plater a 5 gal bucket of bolts is dirt cheap. Around here, it can be had for 50 to 60 bucks, min charge, the problem usually is having enough to make it worthwhile.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
Likes: 9
I always pay about 30 euros for running the drum and around 20 euros for hanging stuff but less if they can sneak larger parts in with some other batch, yellow (gold) is also more expensive(and durable) than blue (silver) I've had a lot of stuff plated, even new stuff replated (like the gold cad finish on washers and brackets from new parts that came scratched up) everything came out excellent.
Last edited by Twin_Turbo; Jan 3, 2007 at 05:30 AM.
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 232
Likes: 0
From: Henrietta New York
I agree with TT. Plating in batch is relatively cheap when compared to buying new grade 5 & 8 bolts and nuts pre-plated. I work with several platers and a typical batch (less than 150 lbs) costs around $35.00. When plating threaded parts it is key that process time in a rotating barrel is controlled. Otherwise you end up with rolled over threads. A good plate to use is Zinc plate, yellow chromate. If they can use a sealer over that all the better. Cad plate would be better but most platers are out of that process for health reasons. Platers, as part of pre-treatment have cleaners to remove slight rusting and oils. I would not use the vibrating bowls. Cannot see how it would clean the root of a thread. If thread damage is a concern at plating, you could wire all the pieces together and send them thru rack plating. A little more $'s but no damage. Parts should not touch however if going the rack plating/wired route. I use pool acid (muriatic) in a very diulte concentration to de-rust my parts prior to having them plated. After the acid dip a light coat of oil then off to the plater.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 1999
Posts: 2,897
Likes: 0
From: Moon Township PA
Tumblers are great stuff. I have heard of (but no experience with them) using either plastic media or walnut shells. Look at rock polishing web sites and such. I have been told that the same units are cheaper there than at places that sell Corvette related items. The DIY Network just did a short series on a 62 Corvette and the guy threw a handful of small bolts and nuts into a tumbler. Came back after a few hours and they looked new.
If I ever need to restore nuts, bolts, and washers, I am going with a rock polishing tumbler and soft media.
Gary
If I ever need to restore nuts, bolts, and washers, I am going with a rock polishing tumbler and soft media.
Gary
