Intake valley shield worth it ?
Unless you live in a cold climate, and use the car for a daily driver, I'd think you're better off without the exhaust gas crossover (blocked off by a block out intake manifold gasket); and thereby don't need the shield. You'll get a small improvement in performance with a cooler carb. Also, for more carb cooling, you can get a valley shield to prevent hot oil splashing on the underneath of the intake manifold. Another reason to block of the exhaust gas crossover, is that it probably destroys the effectiveness of headers with the two cylinders effected.
A magazine article I read recommended removing the shield for cleaning, if for no other reason, when you're installing a used manifold. Apparently the area under the shield becomes home to a lot of gunk and burnt oil. Also, if the person who sold you the intake manifold sand/glass blasted it, there's probably a lot of sand/glass caught under the shield....not good if you're installing the manifold on a big buck engine rebuild.
Last edited by 68/70Vette; Jan 4, 2007 at 05:37 PM.
motor
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Here's the GM part for BB's:
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/perform...CATID=611.html
Here's the GM part for BB's:
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/perform...CATID=611.html
Here's the GM part for BB's:
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/perform...CATID=611.html
Moroso
"Lifter valley baffles increase horsepower by shielding the bottom of the intake manifold from hot oil splash. Also keeps surplus oil out of the valve covers by eliminating oil splash from lifter bores."
Edelbrock
"The air-gap design features an open air space that separates the runners from the hot engine oil resulting in a cooler, denser charge for more power."
The vette used to be a daily driver here in Dallas. Not long drives but enough to have fun each day.
I've been thinking about blocking the crossover. Everyone knows we have enough heat around here.
Should a daily driver have a blocked off crossover? It seems not but don't understand why.

As Lars will tell you, it's the sum of the parts and anything and everything counts.
My combo:
331 CI, pump-friendly 9.5:1 CR
K&N 14"x4" air filter, Corvette drop base and lid
Holley 600 dp, choke horn milled, polished
1/2" Aluminum open spacer port matched to manifold, exterior polished
Edelbrock Performer RPM, port matched, exterior polished with all extraneous castings and lettering removed
Homemade lifter valley splash shield to keep hot oil off manifold bottom
Camel hump 1.94/1.50 heads hogged out to 2.02/1.60, pocket ported, port matched, pump-friendly hardened seats, 3-angle valve job
Comp Cams 1.52:1 roller-tip rockers
Crane Cam Vintage Muscle 327/350 hp cam, 222 degrees @ 0.05, 0.447" lift (with 1.50 rockers)
Doug Thorley headers, dechromed and ceramic-coated
2.5" mandral-bent exhaust (including tips), 2" cross-over just before rear axle
DynoMax stainless Ultra Flow mufflers
Mallory Hyfire IV CD ignition box triggered off Accel points
Mallory high voltage chrome coil
Mallory spiral-wound coil wire
Mallory solid copper plug wires, ends soldered to wires
Champion plugs
37 degrees total ignition advance (now 34 degrees per Lars tune-up)
Carter high volume fuel pump
Melling high volume oil pump
Open breathers
Polished aluminum high flow water pump
Flex fan with polished aluminum spacer
Polished aluminum one-wire 100 amp alternator
Muncie M-20 CR 4-speed (now Keisler TKO600 5-Speed)
Hurst shifter (Now Keisler With Hurst Tower)
3.70:1 positraction
225/60/15 Firestone Firehawk SZ50s on 7”-wide Western 30-spoke Turbine Wheels
At the time of the dyno pull, engine had never been professionally tuned up. Car did 293 ft-lb and 293 hp @ 5,500 rpm on the chassis dyno. Engine pulls to 6,200 rpm and does over 200 ft-lb from 1,900 rpm. This was prior to some clean-up work around the junction of the carburetor and base of the air cleaner that smooths the flow through this area and a Lars tune-up and should be good for a few ponies. Car has run 107 mph in the high 13's (old, bad tires) at the quarter. Car is extremely streetable and could probably even run 87 octane if it had to. (I can't get the engine to ping no matter how far I advance the ignition.)
The secret to power is in the attention to details!


The 'valley shield' is more of performance item to keep hot oil from heating the intake and carb, and is used with GMPP intakes and heads (mostly re-branded Edelbrock stuff) or most any other performance heads/intakes.
Most performance intakes and heads don't have the cross-over provision,..for a reason.


















