When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I fabbed a trailing arm bushing press out of 1cm thick steel plate and the damned thing bowed from the tension on it, will build a new one but stronger. It's not for me..need to press in 1 more t/a bushing
If you need the tools to set up the rear bearings, check out ebay seller bid-quest, much better prices...excellent tools. I never use a knocker or a spindle pres though, always a large shop press (much easier to work with, no chanceof snapping the caliper bracket)
From: WAY DEEP INSIDE AMERICO,YES YOU LIVE HERE TO!! TX
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
I fabbed a trailing arm bushing press out of 1cm thick steel plate and the damned thing bowed from the tension on it, will build a new one but stronger. It's not for me..need to press in 1 more t/a bushing
If you need the tools to set up the rear bearings, check out ebay seller bid-quest, much better prices...excellent tools. I never use a knocker or a spindle pres though, always a large shop press (much easier to work with, no chanceof snapping the caliper bracket)
Thanks TWIN, your comments are always full of know how
I'll shoot a pic of the press when I have a new one finished. It's very easy to make, just need a couple of thick plates of steel. ...I'll make a small drawing, hold on. Cost was about, 5$ ? much cheaper than the one in the catalogs...and if my 1cm one bent, I don't think the one out there will do much better.
From: Ville de la Baie Quebec. A winner is just a loser who tried again.
Your going to need a press of some sort thats for sure, I happen to use one at work. I made myself a bearing setting tool from round stock on a laithe,, very simple to make, I only had a picture of one from a catalogue and some common sense. I don't recall using anyother special tools, this was over a year ago. ,,, Oh ya,, your going to need a dial indicator on a magnetic stand, for setting the bearings. This is not a very difficult job all the info is in this forum. The worst part is removing them I'll see if I can get a pic of my pre-setting tool.
I'm now going to make mine like this, it's exactly the same but has those bowed side plates for the top part and a large triangular gusset on the bottom one The 2 plates just bent right down from tightening the 2 nuts on the studs (I used unf threads, easier to torque down than UNC) There's a lot of force on it. If my almost 1/2" plate bends then your 1/4 will for sure. The middle pin is for locating the inner sleeve, the chamfer in the larger top hole is for easier access to the pin, you can use a small peen hammer or a rounded off drift to work around the edges. I had also made a pointed punch for it but it didn't work near as well as the drift & hammer.
When I got this vette, some 12 years ago or so, I let the locak trusted vette shop do the entire rear IRS, as I didn't have time or patience or special tool J10005 and 3/4 to do the thing with....
TODAY, I would do it myself, without any presses, tools or other BS....
someday I may have to redo it, then I will post of my experiences....
I think there is more BS than reality surrounding this hub/bearing issue....
From: Ville de la Baie Quebec. A winner is just a loser who tried again.
Originally Posted by mrvette
When I got this vette, some 12 years ago or so, I let the locak trusted vette shop do the entire rear IRS, as I didn't have time or patience or special tool J10005 and 3/4 to do the thing with....
TODAY, I would do it myself, without any presses, tools or other BS....
someday I may have to redo it, then I will post of my experiences....
I think there is more BS than reality surrounding this hub/bearing issue....
The reality is; if they are to tight, they will toast. If they are to slack, they will toast. very intellegent people studied this and made up what we call servicable limits. Would you rebuild an engine without measuring anything ?? same same ,,lol
Years ago I purchased all the Chevrolet tools to assemble/disassemble the axles and install the forward TA bushings.
For what it is worth, once I got the axles out, I would take the surface for the inner bearing and reduce it just enough so that the inner bearing slides on the axle.
That way, you can disassemble the axle in the future without tools. You set the bearing tension just like a front wheel bearing. I have set up a bunch of street rear axle bearings like this and they run just fine. Also set up several road race cars the same way.
nice, I use a similar type of setup w/ a hydraulic cylinder instead of a threaded " bolt" ... those things are very nice for taking off bearings. What brand is it? Force?
This is my bushing staking tool . It will not bend. After compressing the bushing you use a ball peen hammer and another good big hammer to flair the inner tube.
Here are the tools I've made this past summer for the TA rebuilds on my 76
The bearing race insert tools were custom-cut to match the angles on the two rear bearings. The set-up tool was cut from mild steel using the a slight modification of the plans I got here on the forum (instead of welding on a handle, I made the piece 1" longer and cut the flats on a mill). I put a flash coat of copper on it to prevent rust, which is why it has that color. The bearing puller was made on a lathe and mill from some leftover scrap. The bushing tool was made from the same flat scrap as the bearing puller and some 1" stainless rod. The spindle and shock knockers (not in the picture) were made from stainless rod as well. The two-part tool for pressing in the outer bearing is an old spacer (cut square on a surface grinder) and some mild steel rod cut into a tube of the same diameter (the leftover stock from the bearing set-up tool).
I've had almost as much fun fabricating these tools as I did doing the actual TA re-building.
When I got this vette, some 12 years ago or so, I let the locak trusted vette shop do the entire rear IRS, as I didn't have time or patience or special tool J10005 and 3/4 to do the thing with....
TODAY, I would do it myself, without any presses, tools or other BS....
someday I may have to redo it, then I will post of my experiences....
I think there is more BS than reality surrounding this hub/bearing issue....
When setting up rear bearing end play set it dry or at most a light drop of oil. NO SEALS, NO GREASE. Once you get it set to what you are comfortable with add the grease and the seals.
At this point on re assembly you will think you goofed since it seems to bind, bearings much to tight. This is normal. After a few miles everything will loosen up and you are back to the end play you originally set.
If you put everything together and it is hard to turn this is normal for a new assembly.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.