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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 05:55 AM
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Default Connecting rod and piston preparation

To get my forged Manley rod's to the same weight I should?? remove some material from some of them, # 6 #7 and #8

Rod's weight is (gram):
# Totaly..B-end...L-end
#1 591....431......160
#2 591....432......159
#3 591....432......159
#4 591....432......159
#5 592....432......160
#6 594....433......161
#7 596....435......161
#8 596....435......161

How important is it that all the rod's have exactly the same weight on both big end and little end?
I can't find any extra material to remove anywhere on the rod's, except where the arrows points.
It it safe to remove that material?

Last edited by gbak; Jan 17, 2007 at 02:53 AM.
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 08:20 AM
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I wouldn't remove material from those rods, they don't have a dedicated balance pads to take material from. Instead I'd balance the entire rotating assembly as a unit.

Last edited by shafrs3; Jan 16, 2007 at 08:45 PM.
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 08:40 AM
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This is a job for a machinst. Many times, they'll juggle the rods around to get similar weights from crank pin to pin. They'll generally remove weight from the pads in the piston to balance small ends on rods with no balance pad. That rib you're pointing to is to help stiffen the cap, don't mess with it. Good luck!
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 09:32 AM
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Unless you're gonna set a new land speed record or be in cup top-10 ... leave those rods alone & smile ... they're plenty close enough. Most manley's are very very close as yours are. It is quite possible the small differences you're seeing are weighing errors ... unless you're VERY VERY good at it and balance/fixture perfect ... and have done many repetitions & statistical analyses.

-edit- not llikely your machineshop will have the capability to match the bobweights within 5g anyway ... think of the 5g as a percentage of the bobweight (~1750g -1900g) ... it becomes rather insignificant.

Last edited by jackson; Jan 6, 2007 at 09:35 AM.
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 11:03 AM
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Unless you're gonna set a new land speed record or be in cup top-10 ... leave those rods alone & smile ... they're plenty close enough. Most manley's are very very close as yours are. It is quite possible the small differences you're seeing are weighing errors ...
Goal is to do better than 14.001, which is my best time so far with the 327. Shouldn't be any problem, biggest problem will be to get the hp down in the ground, not just smoking them up

not llikely your machineshop will have the capability to match the bobweights within 5g anyway ... think of the 5g as a percentage of the bobweight (~1750g -1900g) ... it becomes rather insignificant.
My machinist claims he can balance within +/- 1g, don't know if I should believe him or not....

Been reading some book written by David Wizard and the recomendation was to get the rods to the same weight and as low as possible.
So you mean it isn't so important to weightmatch the rod's then?
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 11:19 AM
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I am shure Jackson will disagree, but 95% of the stress on a rod is downward. I don't believe a gram or two off that rib will weaken it at all.
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 12:36 PM
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Default Manley Rods

Suggestion: DO NOT attempt to get those rods "even" unless you've got access to some "high-end" equipment. Simply "close your eyes" and install them, they will NOT pose a single issue with those variations. Believe me, we see this on 50% of the pieces coming in the door.

Under no circumstances remove that "stiffener" at the bottom of the cap!!! Not sure if anyone's aware out there but a "dollar" bill weighs a gram.

There's much more risk trying to get them the same.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

(Add) Jackson: we can get the bobweights down to 1/2 gram. Waste of valuable time however! Single gram or two is accurate enough and is fine for our field. On a side note here, technically speaking, you CANNOT balance a V-8 unit, you can simply make it "comfortable".

P.S. Other option is call, complain, and send them back! With all the CNC'ing going on you would think this would be uncommon. It's exactly what happens with much of the "off-shore" components. Even some of Manley's, maybe all now, are made overseas!

Last edited by GOSFAST; Jan 6, 2007 at 12:41 PM. Reason: Add Info
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by GOSFAST
Not sure if anyone's aware out there but a "dollar" bill weighs a gram.
And a dollar bill spinning 4000RPM in a 4inch circle weighs 454 grams, or 1 pound.
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by L88Plus
This is a job for a machinst. Many times, they'll juggle the rods around to get similar weights from crank pin to pin. They'll generally remove weight from the pads in the piston to balance small ends on rods with no balance pad.
Can I compensate for a heavy rod and take a light piston??
Is it more important to get the rod's small end and piston to the same weight, then to get the entire assembly to match?


And a dollar bill spinning 4000RPM in a 4inch circle weighs 454 grams, or 1 pound.
How big is the force on the bearings, if I have 4g unbalanced on the rod's big end when spinning 6000 rpm?
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by gbak



How big is the force on the bearings, if I have 4g unbalanced on the rod's big end when spinning 6000 rpm?

4 grams at 6,000 RPM would be approx. 8 lbs.or 3,600 grams

I would get the big ends, revolving wt, the same.
Then balance the small end with pistons.
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 06:49 PM
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I would get the big ends, revolving wt, the same.
Then balance the small end with pistons.
I will discuss this with my machinist.

Talking about balancing....
I have a old 7-1/4" Fluid Damper from the mid nineties, should I scrap it and buy a new one, or use it?
Depending who I talk to, I get two answers:
-Scrap it the silicone have hardened over the time, and does not act as it should.
-No problem it will lasts for years and years and....

BTW:
(I'm building a 383 with a int balanced crank)
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by gbak
I will discuss this with my machinist.

Talking about balancing....
I have a old 7-1/4" Fluid Damper from the mid nineties, should I scrap it and buy a new one, or use it?
Depending who I talk to, I get two answers:
-Scrap it the silicone have hardened over the time, and does not act as it should.
-No problem it will lasts for years and years and....

BTW:
(I'm building a 383 with a int balanced crank)
Should be fine.
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 09:31 AM
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I've talked to two different machinists now and both of them recommends me to remove some material from the more heavier rods.
I also talked to Manley and they recommended me not to remove any material from the cap rib.

Manley's recommendation was to grind a small radius on the outside edge on the cap.

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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 01:55 PM
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A lot of times machinests can do more harm to you then good,
with Jackson, Go-fast leave the rods alone.
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by GOSFAST
On a side note here, technically speaking, you CANNOT balance a V-8 unit, you can simply make it "comfortable".
So very true!
Moreover, many pro racers intentionally overbalance or underbalance ... to bring the point of harmonic imbalance outside operating rpm range / within a range the motor quickly passes through. Not so many pro racers here ... again, leave those rods alone.
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 04:51 PM
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GoFast gave you correct info. I would never touch quality forged rods unless they have a cam clearance problem. My local race shop talks about doing .5 gram balancing jobs on race motors. They put the heaviest piston/pin with the lightest rods. I've also seen some trick piston skirts that holes bored in them to loose weight as well as this set of rods on a V-12 that had holes machined into the I beam and the lower part of the beam above the crank throw.

My latest 4 inch stroker crank has what is called pendulum cut throws to loose weight. It is a 40 pound class Callies in my 427
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 02:52 AM
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Ok! Got the message!

Next up is the rods little end and pistons.

If taking the heaviest piston with the lightest rod little end the differance between the reciprocating mass is 1,8 gr.
Is this good enough?

How important is it to radius the valve reliefs edge for getting less hot spots?

And do I need to shot peen the pistons top?

(As you might remember, I will use these pistons in with 11.2 comp.)
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 09:33 AM
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My 383 has 11.24 compression. Polishing piston tops is kind of a thing of the past. Now you just use the correct cam duration for the given fuel octane to prevent detonation.

Another fix for higher compression problems is thermal coatings for the piston tops. You can then run .5 - 1 point higher compression without pinging.

This is a picture of my ceramic coated 383 pistons.

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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 09:52 AM
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What type of coating?
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 10:12 AM
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Mine were done by:

www.swaintech.com
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