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How important is it that all the rod's have exactly the same weight on both big end and little end?
I can't find any extra material to remove anywhere on the rod's, except where the arrows points.
It it safe to remove that material?
I wouldn't remove material from those rods, they don't have a dedicated balance pads to take material from. Instead I'd balance the entire rotating assembly as a unit.
This is a job for a machinst. Many times, they'll juggle the rods around to get similar weights from crank pin to pin. They'll generally remove weight from the pads in the piston to balance small ends on rods with no balance pad. That rib you're pointing to is to help stiffen the cap, don't mess with it. Good luck!
Unless you're gonna set a new land speed record or be in cup top-10 ... leave those rods alone & smile ... they're plenty close enough. Most manley's are very very close as yours are. It is quite possible the small differences you're seeing are weighing errors ... unless you're VERY VERY good at it and balance/fixture perfect ... and have done many repetitions & statistical analyses.
-edit- not llikely your machineshop will have the capability to match the bobweights within 5g anyway ... think of the 5g as a percentage of the bobweight (~1750g -1900g) ... it becomes rather insignificant.
Unless you're gonna set a new land speed record or be in cup top-10 ... leave those rods alone & smile ... they're plenty close enough. Most manley's are very very close as yours are. It is quite possible the small differences you're seeing are weighing errors ...
Goal is to do better than 14.001, which is my best time so far with the 327. Shouldn't be any problem, biggest problem will be to get the hp down in the ground, not just smoking them up
not llikely your machineshop will have the capability to match the bobweights within 5g anyway ... think of the 5g as a percentage of the bobweight (~1750g -1900g) ... it becomes rather insignificant.
My machinist claims he can balance within +/- 1g, don't know if I should believe him or not....
Been reading some book written by David Wizard and the recomendation was to get the rods to the same weight and as low as possible.
So you mean it isn't so important to weightmatch the rod's then?
Suggestion: DO NOT attempt to get those rods "even" unless you've got access to some "high-end" equipment. Simply "close your eyes" and install them, they will NOT pose a single issue with those variations. Believe me, we see this on 50% of the pieces coming in the door.
Under no circumstances remove that "stiffener" at the bottom of the cap!!! Not sure if anyone's aware out there but a "dollar" bill weighs a gram.
There's much more risk trying to get them the same.
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
(Add) Jackson: we can get the bobweights down to 1/2 gram. Waste of valuable time however! Single gram or two is accurate enough and is fine for our field. On a side note here, technically speaking, you CANNOT balance a V-8 unit, you can simply make it "comfortable".
P.S. Other option is call, complain, and send them back! With all the CNC'ing going on you would think this would be uncommon. It's exactly what happens with much of the "off-shore" components. Even some of Manley's, maybe all now, are made overseas!
Last edited by GOSFAST; Jan 6, 2007 at 12:41 PM.
Reason: Add Info
This is a job for a machinst. Many times, they'll juggle the rods around to get similar weights from crank pin to pin. They'll generally remove weight from the pads in the piston to balance small ends on rods with no balance pad.
Can I compensate for a heavy rod and take a light piston??
Is it more important to get the rod's small end and piston to the same weight, then to get the entire assembly to match?
And a dollar bill spinning 4000RPM in a 4inch circle weighs 454 grams, or 1 pound.
How big is the force on the bearings, if I have 4g unbalanced on the rod's big end when spinning 6000 rpm?
I would get the big ends, revolving wt, the same.
Then balance the small end with pistons.
I will discuss this with my machinist.
Talking about balancing....
I have a old 7-1/4" Fluid Damper from the mid nineties, should I scrap it and buy a new one, or use it?
Depending who I talk to, I get two answers:
-Scrap it the silicone have hardened over the time, and does not act as it should.
-No problem it will lasts for years and years and....
BTW:
(I'm building a 383 with a int balanced crank)
Talking about balancing....
I have a old 7-1/4" Fluid Damper from the mid nineties, should I scrap it and buy a new one, or use it?
Depending who I talk to, I get two answers:
-Scrap it the silicone have hardened over the time, and does not act as it should.
-No problem it will lasts for years and years and....
BTW:
(I'm building a 383 with a int balanced crank)
I've talked to two different machinists now and both of them recommends me to remove some material from the more heavier rods.
I also talked to Manley and they recommended me not to remove any material from the cap rib.
Manley's recommendation was to grind a small radius on the outside edge on the cap.
On a side note here, technically speaking, you CANNOT balance a V-8 unit, you can simply make it "comfortable".
So very true!
Moreover, many pro racers intentionally overbalance or underbalance ... to bring the point of harmonic imbalance outside operating rpm range / within a range the motor quickly passes through. Not so many pro racers here ... again, leave those rods alone.
GoFast gave you correct info. I would never touch quality forged rods unless they have a cam clearance problem. My local race shop talks about doing .5 gram balancing jobs on race motors. They put the heaviest piston/pin with the lightest rods. I've also seen some trick piston skirts that holes bored in them to loose weight as well as this set of rods on a V-12 that had holes machined into the I beam and the lower part of the beam above the crank throw.
My latest 4 inch stroker crank has what is called pendulum cut throws to loose weight. It is a 40 pound class Callies in my 427
My 383 has 11.24 compression. Polishing piston tops is kind of a thing of the past. Now you just use the correct cam duration for the given fuel octane to prevent detonation.
Another fix for higher compression problems is thermal coatings for the piston tops. You can then run .5 - 1 point higher compression without pinging.
This is a picture of my ceramic coated 383 pistons.