Caliper question (again)
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,126
Likes: 0
From: Hudson Falls, N.Y. 76 Vette Modified L-48
Caliper question (again)
Yes, we've been here before, old age on my part...sorry...
Going to install (a, or several) new caliper(s) here soon....do I need to load the caliper (somehow) with fluid before I install it? OR, do I bolt it on, attach the hose (that I would attempt to plug after removal from old caliper) and just bleed the bejesus out of it??
I'm really wishing I didn't have to do this, but this brake issue I'm having must stop....
TIA
Going to install (a, or several) new caliper(s) here soon....do I need to load the caliper (somehow) with fluid before I install it? OR, do I bolt it on, attach the hose (that I would attempt to plug after removal from old caliper) and just bleed the bejesus out of it??
I'm really wishing I didn't have to do this, but this brake issue I'm having must stop....
TIA
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 958
Likes: 1
From: In the Beautiful Shenandoah Valley of VA
Over the last 18 months I managed to rebuild all 4 calipers and install a new (reman) master cylinder. Here's what they started out looking like after disassembly:
I did not attempt to pre-fill the calipers before I installed them, however, it may very well make your bleeding times a bit shorter. The Motive bleeder is a champ, but if you have a MityVac hand operated vacuum pump with the brake bleeder cup attachment, you can easily pull a vacuum and bleed the brakes. I finally finished assembling my '74 Saturday afternoon, bolted on the new master cylinder (after bench bleeding), and we began bleeding the brakes. It took about 3 minutes per wheel with the MityVac to get a reasonably clear and solid fluid output, which surprised me, as the lines haven't had fluid in them for quite some time. We did do a simple brake pedal bleed follow up after, just to ensure that there was no air in the system. The pedal is rock solid. Given the amount of trouble people have posted here, I was surprised how straight forward the bleeding went. Maybe I was just lucky.
In my case, I already had the MityVac on hand for vacuum testing various components on the car, so it was a simple decision. I will note that it takes a good bit of hand pumping.
Steve
I did not attempt to pre-fill the calipers before I installed them, however, it may very well make your bleeding times a bit shorter. The Motive bleeder is a champ, but if you have a MityVac hand operated vacuum pump with the brake bleeder cup attachment, you can easily pull a vacuum and bleed the brakes. I finally finished assembling my '74 Saturday afternoon, bolted on the new master cylinder (after bench bleeding), and we began bleeding the brakes. It took about 3 minutes per wheel with the MityVac to get a reasonably clear and solid fluid output, which surprised me, as the lines haven't had fluid in them for quite some time. We did do a simple brake pedal bleed follow up after, just to ensure that there was no air in the system. The pedal is rock solid. Given the amount of trouble people have posted here, I was surprised how straight forward the bleeding went. Maybe I was just lucky.In my case, I already had the MityVac on hand for vacuum testing various components on the car, so it was a simple decision. I will note that it takes a good bit of hand pumping.
Steve
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,126
Likes: 0
From: Hudson Falls, N.Y. 76 Vette Modified L-48
Power bleeder?....not likely, I'll do it the old fashion way....just needed to know about the filling of it...thanks
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,126
Likes: 0
From: Hudson Falls, N.Y. 76 Vette Modified L-48
Over the last 18 months I managed to rebuild all 4 calipers and install a new (reman) master cylinder. Here's what they started out looking like after disassembly:
I did not attempt to pre-fill the calipers before I installed them, however, it may very well make your bleeding times a bit shorter. The Motive bleeder is a champ, but if you have a MityVac hand operated vacuum pump with the brake bleeder cup attachment, you can easily pull a vacuum and bleed the brakes. I finally finished assembling my '74 Saturday afternoon, bolted on the new master cylinder (after bench bleeding), and we began bleeding the brakes. It took about 3 minutes per wheel with the MityVac to get a reasonably clear and solid fluid output, which surprised me, as the lines haven't had fluid in them for quite some time. We did do a simple brake pedal bleed follow up after, just to ensure that there was no air in the system. The pedal is rock solid. Given the amount of trouble people have posted here, I was surprised how straight forward the bleeding went. Maybe I was just lucky.
In my case, I already had the MityVac on hand for vacuum testing various components on the car, so it was a simple decision. I will note that it takes a good bit of hand pumping.
Steve
I did not attempt to pre-fill the calipers before I installed them, however, it may very well make your bleeding times a bit shorter. The Motive bleeder is a champ, but if you have a MityVac hand operated vacuum pump with the brake bleeder cup attachment, you can easily pull a vacuum and bleed the brakes. I finally finished assembling my '74 Saturday afternoon, bolted on the new master cylinder (after bench bleeding), and we began bleeding the brakes. It took about 3 minutes per wheel with the MityVac to get a reasonably clear and solid fluid output, which surprised me, as the lines haven't had fluid in them for quite some time. We did do a simple brake pedal bleed follow up after, just to ensure that there was no air in the system. The pedal is rock solid. Given the amount of trouble people have posted here, I was surprised how straight forward the bleeding went. Maybe I was just lucky.In my case, I already had the MityVac on hand for vacuum testing various components on the car, so it was a simple decision. I will note that it takes a good bit of hand pumping.
Steve
....during warm months, I have no brake problems, but during the cold months, somehow, I get air in the left rear caliper, warm months, if I bleed just that caliper, say in April, my brakes are good, say from April to October, then the temps start to drop and the brakes go spongey, I bleed LR and it'll be good for a couple of weeks and then sponge again, so the replacement is gonna happen,as well as the hose....I also have both front calipers to replace as the pads I took off in the front showed they were obviously leaking a bit as the plastic on the back of the pads were wrinkled as if there was fluid leaking or maybe it was a heat problem (jury is still out), so I'll probably replace all 4 eventually.....but that LR is a real weird deal...guys have spoken here of run out problems, but I would think if that was the problem, I'd loose the brakes in the summer too, summer is also a time she turns into a daily driver, more miles per week on her, more of a likely chance for the run out theory to happen, but nope, the brakes hold strong all summer long with the warm air....very weird, so at least that LR caliper will be swapped....and I'll decide about the rest, but likely, if the LR goes well, the rest will follow....
Last edited by kb2fzq; Jan 8, 2007 at 10:52 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 872
Likes: 3
From: Cortlandt Manor New York
I just replaced the front calipers on my 70. I did not fill the calipers before mounting but I put on speed bleeders and had the calipers perfectly bled inside of 5 minutes. Just watch the master cylinder closely as the amount of fluid going into empty calipers drains it fast.
