New member to the Forum; I have used a couple of threads here already(stuck hood latch). I am amazed at the level of support and technical expertise.

Bought my Vette a couple of months ago (1st one!) and am extremely excited.

Originally a blue/blue 1968 T-Top 327 automatic transmission with factory air. Previous owner did a black interior and a halfway decent exterior paint of midnight(two-tone black versus a deep metallic purple).

The front end was recently done, but I think the engine is the original numbers matching (does anyone know how to tell?).

Below is a laundry list of sorts that I am looking at doing in the engine compartment,

I value your expertise and experience, please advise with comments, recommendations.

Complete Rebuild of existing engine:

New Crankshaft Bearings
Check Crankshaft Runout and Journals for excessive wear
New Rod Bearings
Check Rods (twisted or elongated)

Check cylinders for wear or damage and rebore if necessary
Check Block - Magnaflux for cracks
Check pistons for wear(New pistons if oversized cylinders are required)
New piston rings

"Light" performance Camshaft
New Valves
New Lifters

New timing chain and gear set
New Exhaust Valves
New Intake Valves
Valve Guide Liners
Valve Seals

Check the Heads(warping, deformation, Magnaflux for cracks)
Check Heads and Block for proper flatness

All New Gaskets
New Oil Pump
-------I am looking to do everything listed below-----------
Misc:
Engine Removal, Assembly and Reinstallation of all components
Temperature sending unit(gage temp never goes over 200)
Oil Pressure Gage
Exhaust Manifold or headers to black side pipes?
Connection to Tranmission
New Edelbrock Intake Manifold and Carb
------------------
Prep and Paint all mounting brackets(alternator, AC compressor, etc.):::Black
Prep and Paint the inner fender walls::: Black
Clean and seal firewall(a couple of small holes)
------------------
New Distributor(recently died, either distrib, coil, or points,)
New Spark Plugs
New Spark Plug Wires
New Coil
Electronic Points Replacement
New Wiring(as needed, frayed, degraded sheath, interior breaks)
------------------
Rebuilt/Reman Transmission
New Power Brake Booster(possibly a vacuum leak)
New Vacuum Lines
New Belts
New water pump
New Radiator(if needed)
New Heater Hoses
New Radiator Hoses (w/ backflush kit)
New AC Compressor (if needed -currently rattles)
Check AC system for leaks and recharge with R-12
Check Steering gearbox(steering is sloppy about 10 degrees)

Want to use "http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e392/tsagg/DSCN1259.jpg" as inspiration.

Not looking to do fuel injection or anything with too much chrome, just a quick reliable classic.

Many thanks in advance!

 

If you have a correct numbers matching block and heads put
the engine in a corner of the garage and buy a crate engine.
If you have made up your mind to use what you have check into
all the costs that a machine shop will charge to redo your heads
and short block. costs like magnufluxing the block, vatting, new
cam bearing install, boring the block, resizing the rods, new rod bolt
cost, cost to grind the crankshaft, small block chevy factory heads
are bad about valve guide wear, you will end up spending a lot on
the heads. When you are through spending money you will still have
a small 327 engine, a 350 to 383 size engine will make power much
more effortlesly.

 

If I can't talk you out of rebuilding the 327 a cam with 256 or
262 duration will work with the 327, auto, i'm guessing 3.08
rear gears.

 

if you just gotta play...take the org. engine out, place in corner.Meanwhile, buy an old, ( 70s or very early 80s)dented,rusted out pick um up truck ,that still runs and drives,with a 400 or 350 sb(auto) in it. play with that motor.

 

First, some grave newbie mistakes:
1) Getting a bit ahead of myself
2) Not being able to check a numbers matching engine
3) Wanting to mess with a numbers matching (if I have one)!


Engine Previously:
Previous owner/mechanic was very sloppy and cut quite a few corners;
The carb rebuild was loose and not correct(I had to replace a frayed throttle cable because the linkage and springs were installed backwards). Oil Levels were not maintained (dark and smelled burnt), wiring is all mickey mouse, etc.

Engine Now:
Oil problems: The engine had some minor leaks(valve covers mostly) but it burns about 1 quart of oil every 200 miles(I check and add at every fill-up, unlike mdjice, so sad by the way);however, i get a "clinking" sound at RPM's over 2,000(like it is more than a quart low on oil), even on the first few miles after a complete fill. When the sound comes(usually accompanied by a puff of smoke), I back off (~500 RPM) for a few seconds and slowing build up to maintain speed. As long as I build up slowly, the engine will run extremely smooth. I have slowly taken it up to around 3,000 to 3,500 RPM (85mph-90mph), with no problems. I know not to "punch" an engine; but this one can't handle much.

Engine (Future):
I'll skip the cam.
Bottom Line: I want to stay with a 327; I'm not obsessed with extra power and performance, stock output and a higher mpg is fine with me. I just want to be able to step on it without worrying; unfamiliar sounds and smoke make me worry.

If the engine I have is a numbers matching (how to verify this?), I'll not compromise it, but I want to make absolutely certain that it will be a clean slate (God only knows how much neglect the previous owner let slip). How do I make it more reliable and eliminate the current problems without mess with it?

If it is not a numbers matching, a 327 long block crate will be more cost effective.

Thanks for straightening this young punk out.

 

Sounds like the under hood wiring has been butchered up over the
yrs buy a new under hood wiring harness. Use a new cam and lifters if your going to rebuild the engine. heres a mild one that will work
well with what you have.
Crane Z-cam- cam and lifters part # 113502
power range 1200-5200
LSA 112
.050 int. dur. 206
.050 ex. dur. 218
adv. int. dur. 256
adv. ex, dur. 268
int. lift .432
ex. lift .459
CAM FACTS excellent low end torque and HP, smooth idle, daily
usage, off road, towing, economy, used in 305 to 350 cu.in.
near stock engines.

Or if you want a new 327/300 hp cam, crane makes a blueprint of it.
cam part #968711
lifters part # 99277-16
RPM range 800-4500
.050 int. dur. 195
.050 ex. dur. 202
LSA 112
int. lift .390
ex. lift .410

 

Thanks for the cam specs; any ideas about the clinking noise and smoke problem?

 

Welcome Stavros.

The engine number is stamped on the front of the engine (passenger side) on the same face that the head gasket lays on. You might need to take a toothbrush or something to it. Mine was covered in oil and grease

I had 2 sets of numbers. The smaller one on the left (as you look from the front of the car) was the engine number that matched the ending digits of the VIN. So check the number against your VIN and if they match...

 

Sweet, I'll check that this weekend.
Many Thanks!

 

Rebuilding that 327 will be as expensive as a GM crate, the "Goodwrench" long block is about $1600 (they have a 'deluxe' version as well)

With a 350 Goodwrench you'll have a very dependable engine with a GM warranty - not a high HP engine but reliable and cheap

Store that 327 engine for resale - you likely have to bore it out to first or second oversize and then the next owner can't rebuild it anymore because the bore is at the max.....

 

Look real close at the fire-wall, seal up any penetrations with good gromets. Like where the speedo cable and clutch linkage push rods go through from the cabin to the engine compartment. This will help keep fumes and heat out of the **** pit.

Look at the radiator / rad support / shroud, and seals. you dont want the new engine over heating.

Look at the condition of the brake lines, much easier to replace with the engine out.

Order of operations;
make it stop
make it go
make it go fast
make it look good

 

Thanks guys, the last six numbers on the lower half matched "420461"!, heads did not.

Since I'm not looking to resell this one, worrying about numbers matching seems silly (I am still wondering how a worn out, number matching engine is worth anything to anyone?). It looks like this engine is only going to need a "once over."

I had a creative thought that doesn't look like there are any takers:
I have a 95% complete 1972 Buick Skylark for sale; I thought a custom car builder would take the Buick as payment for the entire Laundry List.

I figure I'll just fix up this engine and use it until it needs serious attention again. Then switch out to a new crate with fuel injection. I figure by that time I'll have enough $$$ for the crossover. No resells or NCRS futures here anyway. I'm looking to drive this car until I'm so old I cannot drive or until they outlaw gasoline.