82 rear spindle removal
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 76
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From: Beavercreek Ohio
82 rear spindle removal
Need some advise. I have the car jacked and ready to remove the spindle for bearing replacement. All has gone according to plan until tonight. I have a spindle knocker and have been hammering on it for about 30 minutes with no apparent movement. I have the setup tools but did not purchase the spindle removal tool due to cost.
Anyone got any hints on how to proceed? keep on hammering or remove the trailing arm and seek out a machine shop?
Thanks
Anyone got any hints on how to proceed? keep on hammering or remove the trailing arm and seek out a machine shop?
Thanks
Racer
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 253
Likes: 0
Roy,
I used the spindle knocker before with success. Removed the trailing arm from the car, held in one hand, and a large hammer in the other, and drove the spindle out. You can even try a sledge, worked for me. Hope this helps.
I used the spindle knocker before with success. Removed the trailing arm from the car, held in one hand, and a large hammer in the other, and drove the spindle out. You can even try a sledge, worked for me. Hope this helps.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 918
Likes: 5
From: Gainesville FL
It's probably easier to use a hammer and knocker with the TA out of the car. I had to beat pretty hard with a hammer to get mine out and it was a lot easier to be able to hammer straight up and down instead of doing on the side. I'd also rather set up the end-play on the bench rather than trying to do it while the TA is still attached to the frame. Not that it can't be done the other way, but it's just easier.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 76
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From: Beavercreek Ohio
Thanks for the feedback. I was rapidly coming to that conclusion BUT didn't want to disassemble more if it was not necessary. It was not easy trying to get a good hit on the knocker while laying under the car.
I'll update soon
I'll update soon
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,176
Likes: 3,992
From: Connecticut, USA
I would never setup bearing in the car. I know it has been done but it not what I recommend. Remove the arm, replace the front bushings, paint it and then setup the bearings. One thing I do is parallel grind the shims,spacers, flange mating surfaces- all mating parts will have a flat finish to them- makes a big difference in the end result of the job. C clamp the mag base too-there can be no play at all in the indicator.
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 76
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From: Beavercreek Ohio
I'm beginning to think that is the safest way to go. I bought the assembly and setup tools thinking that I could change the bearings myself. I think I'll pull the arms and have the old bearings done at a shop that has the tools and experience to pull this off.
I hate to do that because I have invested in the tools and parts...
thanks for the feedback and advice.
Roy
I hate to do that because I have invested in the tools and parts...
thanks for the feedback and advice.
Roy
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,738
Likes: 53
From: Bogart GA
A small amount of end play is required as you do not want to preload the bearings. I forget what the spec is. Be sure to also check the spindle run-out and the rotor run out as well. Installing the new bearing races will be easier if the the a arm is off as well. I am sure any service station would push out the spindles for you for a few bucks. If you live in Atlanta, I will do it for you!!
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Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: Beavercreek Ohio
spindles are out - now how about the races???
The spindle knocker worked with patience and effort. Now I'll take the spindles to a shop to get the outer bearing pressed off.Question of the day. How difficult is it to knock the races out. I'm ready to start. Does heating the housing make the effort any easier?\
Thanks
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,738
Likes: 53
From: Bogart GA
Because you are not going to reuse the races, a steel drift punch will work fine. The carrier has notches in it to allow you to access the rear of the races. Take your time and tap them out as evenly as possible. If you save to old races you can sand/grind the outer diameter...why? when you install the new races, you can use these when tapping them in. Place these over the new ones and drive them in by tapping the old ones. Flip them over so you are tapping the broad face. When seated, because you ground them, they should drop right out. Works like a charm. Make sure you keep track of which bearing goes with which race. Mark them.
