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Retarding the Camshaft

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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 06:28 PM
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Default Retarding the Camshaft

Are there any negative effects to retarding the camshaft?
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 06:43 PM
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Depending on the grind it may hurt bottom end power. If I remember correctly it will lessen exhaust valve clearance. I only retarded one cam once,it improved the upper rpm band a great deal. This was one
a roller cam in a dragster,not street driven.
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by JimmyS5600
Depending on the grind it may hurt bottom end power. If I remember correctly it will lessen exhaust valve clearance. I only retarded one cam once,it improved the upper rpm band a great deal. This was one
a roller cam in a dragster,not street driven.
As I RECALL, it was the opposite, retarding is great for lower end performance, so IF I was using any system to advance or degree a cam, I would ,considering wear factors......and the more I thimk about this response, it makes sense....

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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 07:58 PM
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Advancing the cam opens the intake sooner. Causing more reversion. Comp Cams grinds 4 degrees into their cams. It gives the car that choppy race idle. All show and no Go! Overlap/smaller LSA numbers create higher hydrocarbon emissions and poor gas mileage.

That is why factory cams even though mild have wide LSA like 114 - 116

I install my cams 4 degrees retarded for more top end. That is why I have lots of power out to 7500 rpm.
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 08:53 PM
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mrvette advanceing the cam helps bottom end,retarding helps top end,
gkul hit it on the head about pulling hard in higher rpm's.
We used to advance the cam,along with other things,to increase bottom end power if a track had real good bite. If it was greasy we retarded the cam.
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 08:54 PM
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So if I get a cam with a duration that creates the idle vacuum I need, I can retard it and pick up some top end power, perhaps get a wider lobe seperation?

Neat.
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 09:12 PM
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Why don't you just get the camshaft ground properly and leave the trick of the week for someone else.

BigBlockk

Later.....
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 09:34 PM
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I have a wild way out thought lol. Ask the cam grinder what they think? Sure they will ask you questions about the car and how it is used. Weight,Transmission rear end gear and even questions about the engine. Other wise just install with a degree wheel by what the cam card says it should be.

as said before if you retard the cam it will increase the high end.
if you advance it will increase your low end.

And depending on the cam you can even play with rocker ratios. But that is another ball game lol.
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 09:42 PM
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Because believe it or not. I enjoy learning more about concepts and the dynamics there in. I will probably end up calling a cam grinder at some point but, I also enjoy learning how things work and why things are done.
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Guru_4_hire
Because believe it or not. I enjoy learning more about concepts and the dynamics there in. I will probably end up calling a cam grinder at some point but, I also enjoy learning how things work and why things are done.
That is why I sent you the pm.
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 10:12 PM
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Most of you have it right. Retard, top end. Advance, bottom end. But best bet for the street is straight up as most cams are dead on. Retard with domed pistons could be critical on overlap as the valves are hanging open in the cylinders and the piston is chasing the exhaust valve But if you have too much bottom end HP and would like to use it on top for MPH, you can retart it if you have one ot these.

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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Guru_4_hire
So if I get a cam with a duration that creates the idle vacuum I need, I can retard it and pick up some top end power, perhaps get a wider lobe seperation?

Neat.
Beware of just randomly selecting wider LSA. I installed a relatively mild Summit house brand cam with 114* LSA and the engine became very 'lazy': soft bottom end, no mid range charge, and not a whole lot of top end (though it will rev if I stay with it long). I suspect it would've worked better with a tuned intake and exhaust tract, but the cam lift and duration were deceivingly mild.

I'm not a cam expert, but this was quite a bit different than previous experience and the only difference I could find (after the fact) was the wider LSA.

This is no fault of Summit and the cam/lifters broke in just fine: just me not paying attention to ALL the specs. I will change it again some day when time permits, in the meantime I rev it like crazy to keep up with what previously was normal.
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Old Jan 12, 2007 | 04:06 AM
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Sorry, I obviously blew it with my previous response....

case closed......
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Old Jan 12, 2007 | 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by mrvette
Sorry, I obviously blew it with my previous response....

case closed......
Its OK gene. Your still my hi-fi guy.
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Old Jan 12, 2007 | 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by gkull
Advancing the cam opens the intake sooner. Causing more reversion. Comp Cams grinds 4 degrees into their cams.
If advancing the cam opens the intake sooner, then retarding it must mean that the intake will close later.

If the intake valve will close later, will this mean that the some of the dynamic compression ratio will be bleed off?
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Old Jan 12, 2007 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by gbak
If advancing the cam opens the intake sooner, then retarding it must mean that the intake will close later.

If the intake valve will close later, will this mean that the some of the dynamic compression ratio will be bleed off?
Yes, your correct. At lower rpm where your not getting the ram effect of the single plane manifold you do get bleed off reversion.

This is my 383 cam valve event numbers installed straight up

Cam Timing: TAPPET @.050
Lift: Opens Closes Max Lift Duration
Intake 11.0 BTDC 45.0 ABDC 107 236 °
Exhaust 59.0 BBDC 5.0 ATDC 117 244 °

DD 2000 give my combination
558 @ 6000 and 536 @ 4500 and it drops to 487 hp @7500


Retard it 4 degrees and you get this: That is why I retard my cams.

Cam Timing: TAPPET @.050
Lift: Opens Closes Max Lift Duration
Intake 7.0 BTDC 49.0 ABDC 111 236 °
Exhaust 55.0 BBDC 9.0 ATDC 121 244 °

DD 2000 give my combination with 4 degrees retard

577 hp @ 6500 rpm and 532 TQ @5000 and it still has 532 hp @7500
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Old Jan 12, 2007 | 11:35 AM
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Have you verified the DD2000 value with the dyno?

If I retard my cam let say 4 degrees and use a 0.028 composite head gasket as jackson recomended in this old thread http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1570164 , my DCR would be around 8.4 and the SCR around 11.1

If decking my block to 0.018, the quench dist would then be 0.046, which still should give me some quench benefits.

Now it evening here and I will forget about DCR/SCR/Quench and gaskets and go to the local pub nearby for a couple of beers, see you tomorrow guys!

Last edited by gbak; Jan 12, 2007 at 11:53 AM.
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Old Jan 12, 2007 | 11:50 AM
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No, because I live at 1500 meters and some of the local mountain passes are nearly 3000 meters. So if I spent the time and money to dial it in locally and then decide to enter some race near sea level non of the setting would be correct. The same thing I considered dyno tuning at sea level and writing everything down. so I would be good for racing at sea level and then retune for the majority of my driving.

I do know that it is a good time motor and when combined to a lightened car, it is really fun. With my 5 speed tranny it actually excelerates hard enough in 3 gear to actually feel it push me back in the seat from 4500 -7500 rpm. Even 4th gear is impressive how fast the speedo climbs to 140 mph and it's time to shift into 5th
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