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I's sick of turning the ignition on my shark, only to have it not start. I'm fairly sure it's the switch because if I play with it for a while, (turning it ALL the way untill it won't go no mo), it engages the starter. (Hooked up a direct starter button temporarily). All grounds are intact and the negative cable to the batt is good. Has anyone taken on this little task? The switch is still available. However, pulling the steering wheel looks like a real B*%CH!! Any advice would help. Thanks in advance. L8TER, Paul.
The ignition switch is fairly easy to install. First disconnect the negative battery terminal. Then remove the steering wheel cover. There are two upper support nuts that hold the column up, remove those two nuts. There are three bolts that run through the firewall, remove these bolts. The column should have enough room to drop down to get to the ignition switch. There are two self tapping screws remove those and remove the wire harness. These instructions worked on a 75' and most GM ignition switches are very similar. Before installation of the column make sure that you adjust the switch in the proper setting. Try the switch before reassembly of the column.
Kaddy :cheers:
Go to http://www.corvettefaq.com and look under Suspension and Steering. The third paper is Adjust Dimmer and/or Ignition Switch. It also covers dropping the steering column.
Maybe I did something wrong here, but when I replaced my ignition switch, I didn't drop the column :confused: I just removed the steering wheel and moved the turn signal switch enough out of the way to release the retaining pin on the ignition switch, slid the old one out, and slid the new one in.
Paul, I don't know if they have one that will work on the Corvette wheel, but most auto parts stores will let you borrow a steering wheel puller (the right way to go). I certainly wouldn't recommend it, but I cheated by loosening the tilt/tele lock and tapped gently on the center post with a hammer until the wheel slid off. Maybe I was lucky and someone had it off recently or something, but it only took a few taps.
Also, you might want to check around and see what a locksmith will charge. In this area, I've heard that the going rate is about $50, but like everything else the price probably goes up when they see it's a Corvette.
The [B]ignition lock cylinder[B/] is inside the steering column right under the steering wheel and turn signal switch. Rotating the lock cylinder (with the ignition key) rotates a plastic gear which move a small die cast rack inside the column. The rack connects to a rod that goes down the column to the ignition switch. The [B]ignition switch[B/] and all the wires are mounted on the steering column down under the dash. It requires that you drop the column to access the switch to make it difficult for a thief to hot wire your car.
The ignition lock cylinder is inside the steering column right under the steering wheel and turn signal switch. Rotating the lock cylinder (with the ignition key) rotates a plastic gear which move a small die cast rack inside the column. The rack connects to a rod that goes down the column to the ignition switch. The ignition switch and all the wires are mounted on the steering column down under the dash. It requires that you drop the column to access the switch to make it difficult for a thief to hot wire your car.
OK,
I'll just print these posts out and follow all directions!! Sounds like it could be involved. But not too dificult. I recently pulled the steering wheel off my Yukon with just a few taps to the center nut and it came right off. Hope I'm that lucky with the Vette. Thanks, L8TER, Paul.
I believe that Autozone stores will lone special tools like the steering wheel puller at no charge. You really should beg, borrow, or buy a puller for this job. I would not try to shock the steering wheel hub by pounding :smash: on the end of the steering shaft to remove it for a couple reasons.
First, the steering column was designed with plastic molded, collapsible steering shafts, tubes, and brackets. Pounding on the shaft can cause the plastic to shear and could cause a looseness when steering. (Please note, even if the plastic joints loosen, you will always be able to steer the car.)
Second, pounding on the steering shaft nut could damage the bearings that support the steering shaft.
OK Jim, I get the picture. I was only referring to a few light taps, however You are correct. I downloaded your paper at corvettefaq!! Also, thanks for the info about AutoZone. I'll stop in there first thing tomorrow AM. Do you think I can order the actual switch there as opposed to ordering/waiting for it from Eckler's, ect....
You know, there are just so many places that could afford to tool up a switch as complicated as an ignition switch. My best guess is that most vendors get them right from General Motors or the original GM supplier. But I am not sure! If the parts are remanufactured, they could be rebuilt in any number of places.
My personal opinion. If you can get a good deal from a local GM dealer, I would purchase things like switches, relays, and critical parts from him. GM makes a special effort to provide service parts for Corvette and Cadillac Allante owners. Having said this, it still is getting harder and harder to find 30 year old parts at your local GM dealer.
Vettesic,
The steering wheel hub has serrations and a taper fit to the steering shaft. If the steering wheel nut was torqued to specification (30 ft-lbs) and the parts have been clamped together for years, there is no way that a "light tap" is going to pop the hub off the steering shaft.
It has been my experience, that even with a puller, you better make sure that you are using grade 8 bolts to connect to the hub and have the puller very square to the steering shaft or you risk breaking bolts before the hub comes off.