So here is what I am thinking
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From: All humans are vermin in the eyes of Guru VA
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So here is what I am thinking
KB100 pistons with their 7cc flat top pistons will make a nice 10.865 to give me a sweet 8.211 dynamic compression ratio with my 288/300 cam. These will promptly be sent to Swaintech for low friction skirt coatings and a thermal barrier.
The strongest 5.7" I beam rods Scat makes. These will also be on their way to Swaintech for an oil shedding coating.
A scat 9000 383 crank, with the 1 pc rear main seal. Also to be treated with an oil shedding coating. I have a good sized kickout the length of my oil pan designed to catch the oil and keep it away from the crank. So this is a fortuitous alignment of the stars.
I havent really figured out my piston ring situation.
What should I get? Is there a definable benefit to the thinner rings?
The strongest 5.7" I beam rods Scat makes. These will also be on their way to Swaintech for an oil shedding coating.
A scat 9000 383 crank, with the 1 pc rear main seal. Also to be treated with an oil shedding coating. I have a good sized kickout the length of my oil pan designed to catch the oil and keep it away from the crank. So this is a fortuitous alignment of the stars.
I havent really figured out my piston ring situation.
What should I get? Is there a definable benefit to the thinner rings?
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No offense intended, but with exception of factory skirt coating, I think expensive coatings of budget rotating assembly in a street motor is waste of good $resources$.
Standard ringpak is fine. However, thin AND shallow rings are a good thing if coupled with a straight & stable bore ... most today's vehicles have them OE; ie 96-up iron vortec have 1.5mm,1.5mm, 3mm ringpak that're also shallow (lower tension) ... done right, they work great for a long time & w/ less friction.
FYI: KB100 sits only 0.017" below stock deck; most pistons sit about 0.025" below.
-edit- FM/sealedpower/speedpro P/N H860CP is virtual equivalent of KB100 but comes with skirt coating & I've seen em on ebay ( seller racersoutlet ) for about $175/set. -5cc, 1.425"cd, flattop w/2vr, press or float, std ringpak. I much prefer sp design & quality over kb.
Frankly, I'd go w/ 6" rods and sp P/N H124CL ... skirt-coated, flattop, 2vr, 1.130"cd, -5cc, 1/16,1/16,3/16 ringpak, press or float ... same ebay seller gets about $225/set. Typically, 6" setup ends up lighter than 5.7 ... & easier to balance.
Standard ringpak is fine. However, thin AND shallow rings are a good thing if coupled with a straight & stable bore ... most today's vehicles have them OE; ie 96-up iron vortec have 1.5mm,1.5mm, 3mm ringpak that're also shallow (lower tension) ... done right, they work great for a long time & w/ less friction.
FYI: KB100 sits only 0.017" below stock deck; most pistons sit about 0.025" below.
-edit- FM/sealedpower/speedpro P/N H860CP is virtual equivalent of KB100 but comes with skirt coating & I've seen em on ebay ( seller racersoutlet ) for about $175/set. -5cc, 1.425"cd, flattop w/2vr, press or float, std ringpak. I much prefer sp design & quality over kb.
Frankly, I'd go w/ 6" rods and sp P/N H124CL ... skirt-coated, flattop, 2vr, 1.130"cd, -5cc, 1/16,1/16,3/16 ringpak, press or float ... same ebay seller gets about $225/set. Typically, 6" setup ends up lighter than 5.7 ... & easier to balance.
Last edited by jackson; Jan 19, 2007 at 11:46 PM.
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From: All humans are vermin in the eyes of Guru VA
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The problem is that the 2cc makes a BIG difference. 7cc versus 5cc.
8.4:1(5) dynamic versus 8.2:1(7) dynamic compression.
I really need to cc my heads though.
Maybe instead of buying all that stuff I will have my heads flowbenched and my chambers cc'ed. That could be fun too.
About rods. from what I understand 6" rods need more notching around the block.
I am going to be working on this motor for awhile, so neat stuff is fun.
I am going to use the distributer I rebuilt with the crane XR-i and put it in my existing L82 and run that till this motor finally comes together.
8.4:1(5) dynamic versus 8.2:1(7) dynamic compression.
I really need to cc my heads though.
Maybe instead of buying all that stuff I will have my heads flowbenched and my chambers cc'ed. That could be fun too.
About rods. from what I understand 6" rods need more notching around the block.
I am going to be working on this motor for awhile, so neat stuff is fun.
I am going to use the distributer I rebuilt with the crane XR-i and put it in my existing L82 and run that till this motor finally comes together.
Last edited by Guru_4_hire; Jan 20, 2007 at 07:21 AM.
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From: All humans are vermin in the eyes of Guru VA
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Present options. I am open to ideas.
I am going to run manifolds for reasons other than horsepower gain. When I finally get around to getting headers, I am going to change camshafts and have custom headers made with a burns stainless collector with the venturi. Till then its manifolds.
I dont see any reason to invest in lightweight parts. At least not selectively.
I am going to run manifolds for reasons other than horsepower gain. When I finally get around to getting headers, I am going to change camshafts and have custom headers made with a burns stainless collector with the venturi. Till then its manifolds.
I dont see any reason to invest in lightweight parts. At least not selectively.
Last edited by Guru_4_hire; Jan 20, 2007 at 10:49 AM.
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Right off the Swain site they talk about oil repellant coatings only coming into play over 6000 rpm. So it could be a cost per hp item.
As for rings. The width of the piston lands determine the width of the piston rings. Total seal rings are a good product.
As for rod length determining block grinding amount
It's not true at all. The design of the rod is the determining factor. It is the rods big end bolt that has to get clearanced. Big 680 gram Manley H-beams like I have been using are probably the worst case. Smaller sub 600 gram I beam rods need much less clearancing.
The Morroso diamond crank stripper is a good item in lou of oil repellant crank/rods/under side of the pistons.
As for rings. The width of the piston lands determine the width of the piston rings. Total seal rings are a good product.
As for rod length determining block grinding amount
It's not true at all. The design of the rod is the determining factor. It is the rods big end bolt that has to get clearanced. Big 680 gram Manley H-beams like I have been using are probably the worst case. Smaller sub 600 gram I beam rods need much less clearancing.The Morroso diamond crank stripper is a good item in lou of oil repellant crank/rods/under side of the pistons.
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From: All humans are vermin in the eyes of Guru VA
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I am definitely interested in this crank stripper. Got a link.
Per chance did you mean milodon?
Its not about the money. But you make a valid point about the over 6000 rpm thing.
Per chance did you mean milodon?
Its not about the money. But you make a valid point about the over 6000 rpm thing.
Last edited by Guru_4_hire; Jan 20, 2007 at 12:23 PM.
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I just remembered the M so you are right. Milodon
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...115+4294856935
The later L-82's came with a factor stripper. The after market just made copies after the factory
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...115+4294856935
The later L-82's came with a factor stripper. The after market just made copies after the factory
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Thread Starter
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From: All humans are vermin in the eyes of Guru VA
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Coolio
That will work.
I have this neat little oil pan with a huge kickout the entire length of the oil pan to keep oil away from the crank as it gets thrown off. Pretty cool.
That will work.
I have this neat little oil pan with a huge kickout the entire length of the oil pan to keep oil away from the crank as it gets thrown off. Pretty cool.
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