Fabricators opinions wanted.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,570
Likes: 1
From: Algonac Michigan
Fabricators opinions wanted.
Has any one ever considered trying to install Mac Struts in a C3?? Particularly a '69??
If not....Why? And if so what were the results??
Just wondering.
If not....Why? And if so what were the results??
Just wondering.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,570
Likes: 1
From: Algonac Michigan
Yes McPherson Struts. I was not aware of there inability to perform as well as the A-Arm setup we have now.
Yes, I would like coil overs on all 4 corners as a matter of fact. But the price and fabrication are a hurdle I can't overcome at this time. So I guess I was just bouncing around possible alternatives.
Yes, I would like coil overs on all 4 corners as a matter of fact. But the price and fabrication are a hurdle I can't overcome at this time. So I guess I was just bouncing around possible alternatives.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 20,894
Likes: 962
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Yes McPherson Struts. I was not aware of there inability to perform as well as the A-Arm setup we have now.
Yes, I would like coil overs on all 4 corners as a matter of fact. But the price and fabrication are a hurdle I can't overcome at this time. So I guess I was just bouncing around possible alternatives.
Yes, I would like coil overs on all 4 corners as a matter of fact. But the price and fabrication are a hurdle I can't overcome at this time. So I guess I was just bouncing around possible alternatives.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,570
Likes: 1
From: Algonac Michigan
I still would like to get rid of the leaf spring in the back. I got a problem getting the 1/2 shafts even close to parrallelW/10" bolts out to the max.
Last edited by sly vette; Jan 23, 2007 at 11:14 AM.
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Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
Likes: 9
C3, it's a stock setup w/ just simple brackets welded to the trailing arms.
The diff is an 80-82 unit drilled and tapped for a custom toe contol center mount plate and 2 struts like the C4 (and they are for toe control, not a 6 link. I haven't seen the rest but I think they have a floating front trailing arm bushing so the rods control toe, not the arm itself...but that's a whole other story)
The diff is an 80-82 unit drilled and tapped for a custom toe contol center mount plate and 2 struts like the C4 (and they are for toe control, not a 6 link. I haven't seen the rest but I think they have a floating front trailing arm bushing so the rods control toe, not the arm itself...but that's a whole other story)
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 20,894
Likes: 962
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
C3, it's a stock setup w/ just simple brackets welded to the trailing arms.
The diff is an 80-82 unit drilled and tapped for a custom toe contol center mount plate and 2 struts like the C4 (and they are for toe control, not a 6 link. I haven't seen the rest but I think they have a floating front trailing arm bushing so the rods control toe, not the arm itself...but that's a whole other story)
The diff is an 80-82 unit drilled and tapped for a custom toe contol center mount plate and 2 struts like the C4 (and they are for toe control, not a 6 link. I haven't seen the rest but I think they have a floating front trailing arm bushing so the rods control toe, not the arm itself...but that's a whole other story)
TT,
Ya got me confused here. The rear diff sure looks like a C4 D36 in a C3 frame, rather than a modified aluminum C3 differential. Regardless, it's still a nice looking piece of workmanship.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
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you're right, it's a D36... they had another pic that has a converted c3 D44...I didn't look at the pic too well and assumed this was the converted older style. I would however never use the D36, it's a weak POS. Even weaker than the C3 one it seems.
Sly, yes you need a u channel and fabricate the 2 mounts, just taper them down to the bottom and notch the other side so you can weld them to the corner of the trailing arm. If you need a 3d model to explain it a bit better let me know, I can whip it up in a jiffy.
Sly, yes you need a u channel and fabricate the 2 mounts, just taper them down to the bottom and notch the other side so you can weld them to the corner of the trailing arm. If you need a 3d model to explain it a bit better let me know, I can whip it up in a jiffy.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
This is one of my rear coilovers. Use only 5 inch travel shocks if you are going in this position. YOu need to keep the total length of the shock as short as possible to keep the lower mount at a reasonable height. A 5 inch travel shock gives 7 inches at the wheel.
The top mount in in the right location.
I welded my lower mount to the side of the trailing arm
The top mount in in the right location.
I welded my lower mount to the side of the trailing arm
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
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it's not mine...i think that german shop did it.
This is how I did it for a friend, also full stainless..pretty similar This one has cat cons up front and I made it so it runs not so close to the trans and doesn't use an older style crossmember but a notched 80-82 type.
This is how I did it for a friend, also full stainless..pretty similar This one has cat cons up front and I made it so it runs not so close to the trans and doesn't use an older style crossmember but a notched 80-82 type.