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Big Block 572 in a C3

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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 07:57 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by turtlevette
what extra weight.?? using al heads and intake and stripping the a/c you're probably the same weight as a small block.

Maybe so, but when Stacey installed that first 572 in his Copper Head pickup, he explained how they weighed more than a short deck big block, and suspension modifications would have to be made to handle the extra weight. Was he wrong?
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 09:33 PM
  #22  
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The weight was a factor in my car. It now sits HIGH in the front. I removed the C/B radiator, used AL heads and removed a few items like wiper door etc... I plan to use a set of QA1 double adjustable coilovers to adjust the ride height and allow for good weight transfer on track days. Does anyone have these and are you sassy-fied?
-P
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 10:15 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by pef427
The weight was a factor in my car. It now sits HIGH in the front. I removed the C/B radiator, used AL heads and removed a few items like wiper door etc... I plan to use a set of QA1 double adjustable coilovers to adjust the ride height and allow for good weight transfer on track days. Does anyone have these and are you sassy-fied?
-P
Patrick,

I am in the process of installing the Van Steel coil over setup with the QA1's - I should have you some feedback before too long. As a side note, I do have a brand new set of QA1's (shocks and springs) if there is a need on your part.

Bryan
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 02:13 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by gandrus104

Will it hit the frame, steering box or power brake master cylinder? I can modify headers to wrap around, under and through but I can't change the basic dimentions of this monster.

Any help from someone who has done this would be great!


Here's a picture of my talldeck, it can be done
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 09:21 AM
  #25  
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Hey that is an 18* motor, how about some details??
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 10:20 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by davidarborg
Here's a picture of my talldeck, it can be done

Wow, with the valve cover that close to the brake booster...are you sure it doesn't tap it or rub when you really get on it? Are you running solid motor mounts?
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 11:55 AM
  #27  
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Good Lord
What special lube did you use to get that to slide in?
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 12:32 PM
  #28  
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I wish I could find an air cleaner that size to fit a Dominator.
-P
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 12:34 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by pef427
I wish I could find an air cleaner that size to fit a Dominator.
-P

Being so simple in design, why not just have one made?
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 01:28 PM
  #30  
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How do you get them valve covers off to adjust valves?
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 01:52 PM
  #31  
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If somebody has the money for a $$$ engine, he has the money to add a tall cowl on the hood!! Harwood makes all different types of cowl induction setups that can be fiberglassed onto the original hood...

for example:

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

6 inches cowl should be plenty!
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 02:45 PM
  #32  
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Stop picking on me Olivier!
I really don't want the "Racer" look of one of those hoods. I will post some pics of not only a 572 fitting nicely with power brakes but of the hood I want as well.
-P
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 02:51 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
Being so simple in design, why not just have one made?
I have given it some thought. I would need it to drop some and then maybe K&N would make me a filter. I have had them custom make a filter in the past. HHHMMMM.
-P
PS. Check out that custom 572 top. Pretty cool, but restrictive looking.
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 03:14 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by davidarborg


Here's a picture of my talldeck, it can be done
Is that brake line this?

"The 90/10 Solution for replacement brake lines

Cunifertm is the answer. Seamless copper-nickel 90/10 alloy brake line is strong as steel, completely corrosion proof and much easier to work with. High performance manufacturers such as Aston Martin, Porsche, Volvo and Audi, have chosen to install 90/10 alloy over all other materials including stainless steel brake lines.

Its unique properties allow it to be snaked into positions that are impossible to do with steel brake line. Flares easier, minimum tube preparation required and no seam to split. Cunifertm brake line
seals better, making it the best choice for your installation!

No other brake tubing compares for strength, reliability and ease of installation. It is the perfect replacement brake line tubing for cars, trucks and buses."


Or is it this...

"Brake line pressures can and do exceed 1000 psi. On no account should copper, aluminum, or commercial fuel line be used, despite the fact that they are easily available and appear to be easy to work with. Pure copper tubing work-hardens and becomes very, very brittle- especially at flare fittings. Under the cyclical loadings seen from brake applications, and in the presence of moisture (and possibly high concentrations of chlorides, if you live in a road salt area), they will almost certainly fail. They will tend to crack and fail right at the flare, generally with little or no warning. (Copper also catalyzes the auto-oxidation of fuel, the mechanism of sludge formation. Copper should never be in contact with fuel.)"

Or is it not brake line stuffed in there?

?

Last edited by Tom454; Jan 25, 2007 at 03:16 PM.
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 03:54 PM
  #35  
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Holy crap it's annoying to read the posts with big pictures attached to them.
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 08:30 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
Holy crap it's annoying to read the posts with big pictures attached to them.
WOW wait stop the press . After all this time I thought you only looked at the pictures and did not read lol.

Just Hackin on ya lol.
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 02:53 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by SHAKERATTLEROLL
WOW wait stop the press . After all this time I thought you only looked at the pictures and did not read lol.

Just Hackin on ya lol.

Hooked on Phonics worked for me...it can work for you too...

Now I are an English major.
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