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My Aluminum flywheel did not even come with bolts. I did not replace anything else with it. Just cleaned all the bolts and my clutch a PP were new last year so I was good to go. Cleaned everything up reinstalled and torqued every up and it is ready go. I have not fired it up yet but can't wait to see what it does compared to my 30 pounder.
My Aluminum flywheel did not even come with bolts. I did not replace anything else with it. Just cleaned all the bolts and my clutch a PP were new last year so I was good to go. Cleaned everything up reinstalled and torqued every up and it is ready go. I have not fired it up yet but can't wait to see what it does compared to my 30 pounder.
same for me, i want to try how it let the engine rev on quick gear changes approching sharp bends...
do the bolts need a special torque figure when reinstalled?
same for me, i want to try how it let the engine rev on quick gear changes approching sharp bends...
do the bolts need a special torque figure when reinstalled?
Yes the flywheel to crank should be 60 ft lbs and the pressure plate bolts should be at 35 ft lbs. I use blue Loctite on the threads for an extra measure of security.
Yes the flywheel to crank should be 60 ft lbs and the pressure plate bolts should be at 35 ft lbs. I use blue Loctite on the threads for an extra measure of security.
Let me kow what you think of the light flywheel when you get it back out. I probably won't have mine out for a month or two due to the colder weather and crap on the roads.
Let me kow what you think of the light flywheel when you get it back out. I probably won't have mine out for a month or two due to the colder weather and crap on the roads.
i will definitely do, hope to swap it in in about a week or 10 days...
Mine is 22 pounds. I think that my fellow racing buddy has a 40 lbs with 11 inch clutch. One of the major differences I've noted between our cars is the ability of my motors changing rpm very quickly.
His car under heavy braking and turning in to hit a good apex on a corner. You have to be very careful on down shifting to rpm match. Or else the added motor crompression braking will really kicks the back end out.
I have light weight everything in and on the outside of the motor. so it doesn't have the tendancy to lock the rear tires on a down shift.
George are you running the 427 again? I think so. How do you like running the stick over the automatic?? Was it a worthwhile switch??
No the 427 is back at the shop getting the pistons clearanced for bigger 15 degree heads with up to 2.200/1.60 and max lift of .750. I'm not going with those heads yet I just want to have it ready so I would not even have to pull the motor in the future head swap.
Glad I came across this thread. I'm on Summits website now trying to pick out a flywheel for my 327. I'm going to pick it up tomorrow so i have to pick one out tonight.
Is there a huge benefit with a 15.5 lb unit?
Also, do I need 153 or 168 tooth count?
Glad I came across this thread. I'm on Summits website now trying to pick out a flywheel for my 327. I'm going to pick it up tomorrow so i have to pick one out tonight.
Is there a huge benefit with a 15.5 lb unit?
Also, do I need 153 or 168 tooth count?
The tooth count will be dependent on your starter. A light flywheel will let the engine rev faster, but will be more difficult to get rolling because of less inertia. Your 327 will wind like a chain saw, but you'll be slipping the clutch or burning tires to get it rolling. I've got a light flywheel on my BB, and I have to be a little tender to get things rolling. But my cam/heads/intake combination isn't really setup for low speed either.
You'll have to decide for yourself on that one. What you want the car to do, get the RPM really quick or pull from zero like a freight train.
I like the light flywheel on mine, but the torque the BB has anyway offsets the low inertia to a point. A heavy flywheel on my combination and I have to shut it off and let the clutch out at the same time to get it to stop turning. Been there. I tried a light one on a Z-28 I had and didn't really like the result, but that's my opinion.
Someone else may jump in with some more direct experience..
I just put a 12.5 pound Fidenza flywheel on mine. Iwent from a 30 pounder to the 12.5 one. It will be a month or two before I have results but I have a good amount of torque so I'm not worried about the low end. I just want it to rev faster.
Wow, a 15 lb flywheel on a 302 Z-28. I'll bet that was fun to drive! My 69 Z28 wouldn't pull a fat girl off a tricycle as far as low end torque was concerned. Launching it from a dead stop was a chore as well. As soon as the tires hooked, the engine bogged and you played catch up all the way. I had a 2.2 Muncy and 4:10 final drive.
Only way around that was more gear in the rear end.
Lt. Flywheels are probably a good thing on BB engines for the street. Probably the big inch SBs too. You trade off excessive tire spin (starting from a dead stop) for faster engine acceleration. Often you may need more rear gear to make a happy meduim. You will definately launch from higher RPM to get things moving.
A rev limiter might not be a bad idea as if you should miss a shift, the engine RPM will certainly go much higher before you can catch it. Dropped valves and such are pretty nasty.
I just put a 12.5 pound Fidenza flywheel on mine. Iwent from a 30 pounder to the 12.5 one. It will be a month or two before I have results but I have a good amount of torque so I'm not worried about the low end. I just want it to rev faster.
i'm looking forward to fix my 15 lbs flywheel to...as soon as i fix it i'll post the test here so you'd eventually have enough time to send yours back and leave the 30 pounder
i have a 530tq figure, hope it's enough to use it without having to rev the engine until 6.000 rpms for a decent start...
Wow, a 15 lb flywheel on a 302 Z-28. I'll bet that was fun to drive! My 69 Z28 wouldn't pull a fat girl off a tricycle as far as low end torque was concerned. Launching it from a dead stop was a chore as well. As soon as the tires hooked, the engine bogged and you played catch up all the way. I had a 2.2 Muncy and 4:10 final drive.
Only way around that was more gear in the rear end.
Lt. Flywheels are probably a good thing on BB engines for the street. Probably the big inch SBs too. You trade off excessive tire spin (starting from a dead stop) for faster engine acceleration. Often you may need more rear gear to make a happy meduim. You will definately launch from higher RPM to get things moving.
A rev limiter might not be a bad idea as if you should miss a shift, the engine RPM will certainly go much higher before you can catch it. Dropped valves and such are pretty nasty.
Just a thought on that one.
Bob
My Z-28 was a little later- I had a 350- but you are correct about the low end.
And on the BB, the rev limiter is a necessity- I've had the clutch stick to the floor at 8000. Installed a scattershield right after that- AND the rev limiter.