well took the 78 to midas to check the master cylinder to see if it was leaking because pedal was getting soft still worked ok but not as firm as it ahs been.

No brake light had been coming on just wanted it check out before road trip---Well they checked the calipers and 3 hadsigns of oil around the pistons so thinking i would never do this again I had them give me a quote for replacing the 3 and that's all $1211.00. so I told them I don't think so son came home and ordered set from Zip I was really POed they wanted $282. for cap and $121. to install each. I can take a day off from work and still save money.
after i left there I had no brakes and the light stayed on all the way home. not a good day

anyway how difficult of a job is this its been years since I have done brakes

Thanks
David


[Modified by davds96, 6:00 PM 10/3/2001]

 

not too bad, i replaced mine..2 bolts hold the calipers on, need to check rotors and pads while your at it, and blow out brake lines...bleeding will kill ya, guaranteed...im still working on mine...

any more questions just ask or send me a msg

 

Just did mine on the 76 tonight. Life will be a lot easier if you have an air compressor and can get your hands on a pneumatic vacuum bleeder. I borrowed one from the mechanics next to my shop, and it made the job of bleeding the brakes simple.

 

David this is a very easy DIY job. It is not a clean job or a non-knuckle busting job but it is still easy. While you are at it you might want to check your brake pads too.

1. once the car is jacked up and the wheels removed, you need to pull each brake caliper off. 5/8", six point socket I think. It should slide straight up and off. When you place the new caliper on, ensure that you have the small copper gasket between the line and the caliper. Open the brake master cylinder to allow for expansion room when you compress the piston in the caliper. Put in your brake pads (new or old, your choice) and then slide the caliper and pads on the rotor. Before you start messing with the pads and rotor, please clean your hands. brake fluid on your pads ruins them. Torque them down (around 60 ft-lbs - again from memory) and then go on to the next one.

2. suction out all of your brake fluid from the master cylinder and refill with fresh NEW fluid. Then, bleed your system in the proper sequence at each caliper. Bleed it for several strokes of the brake pedal until each caliper delivers fresh, clean fluid. Refill the mc between each caliper. DO NOT DRIP brake fluid on your paint - you won't be happy.

Gary

 

thanks for the info this is going to be my job for next week I am planning on replacing the pads, parking brakes system and the front brake lines back ones are new
thanks again
David

 

David,
I just did the front calipers and hoses on my 76 last weekend. It's not a bad job at all, in fact, it's kind of a stress relief. One thing and you may already know this, but if not here it goes. When removing the hoses on the front, disconnedt them from the hard line (attached to the frame via a little clip) first. You'll need a 5/8" open end wrench to hold the hose and a 3/8" open end wrench (a flare nut wrench is the best for this) and take it off there first. Otherwise, you'll end up kinking the line and teaching your neighbors new words.

A 5/8" open end will remove the hose from the calipers. Also, a 5/8" box end wrench or a 5/8" socket to remove the two bolts that hold the calipers. Your new calipers should have a couple of the copper gaskets with it or your new hoses will have them. Use new gaskets (speaking from experience here) the old ones will leak.

You'll need a couple cotter pins. The steel pin that secures the pads requires one to keep it from backing out. Yes, I had to make a trip to AutoZone to get some when I realized the new pads didn't come with them. If you buy hoses from Zip or MidAmerica or one of the suppliers, might as well get new pins for the brake pads. Mine were rusty and I replaced them with SS ones from Mid America.

All-in-all, a Saturday afternoon job. Be sure your car is supported by good jack stands. You have to get your body inside the wheel well to get at all of the bolts and it's best to have her held up good when you're under it. I bet a Vette would really get your attention if it slipped the jack when you were under it :cry

The vacuum bleeder is cool, and makes it quick, but I still like the old fashioned method for my final bleeding. Had the wife help me and we're still married.

Good luck and let us know how it went.

Jeff

 

All this info sounds good except the vacuum bleeder. I bought a vacuum bleeder and trying to bleed my brand new Vettebrakes calipers, I could not get the air out. It was sucking around the bleeder seat. Same results with speed bleeders.

You may get a good new set and not have this problem. Keep an eye out though.

 

It seems like everyone here has given you some really good info on getting this job done. There are 3 things I whould like to add. First I absolutly would replace the old brake pads with new ones. You're going to have the whole system apart there would be no reason not to. Second I would absolutly have the rotors resurfaced. If you don't you can have brake fad and vibration problems. Third I would replace all four calipers not just three of them. Replacing one side can cause added stress on the opposing side and can cause it to leak. While you're doing it may as well do the entire job that way you're not back down there redoing any of it a couple of weeks later.
Just my 2 cents.........

/Dez