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just coming back from a night ride to test the new vansteel tubular a-arms...it could be because my old stock arms bushing were pretty much deteriorated or only because the a-arms new geometry (or because both iussues) but as a matter of fact the ride on bends is much more precise, specially under throttle load at the exits, previously i had to 'compensate' a noticeable swing and loose of control, now i have the car chassis more precise on the tarmac and obbeys to any slight movement of the driving wheel in a more sincere way...
oh more, caster. OK provides a little mroe stability on the straight and a teeny bit more camber gain.
also, my old arms rubber bushings were in bad conditions (the left one was quite deteriorated...), new arms came with polybushing so part of the 'gains' could have come from that iussue too...
if your upper arms are that bad, better do something about the lowers also...especially if the underside of the car is oily. The oil will swell the bushings and make them look better than they really are.
if your upper arms are that bad, better do something about the lowers also...especially if the underside of the car is oily. The oil will swell the bushings and make them look better than they really are.
T/T, thanks for the advice, appreciate it.
anyway the lower arms are pretty new and polibushed, they came in the 'front transverse monospring full kit' that i just bought last year.
I am curious about the alignment specs you used.
To all members here: do you have stock or performance
alignments?
I have a agressive align and have bump steer,
well worth it to me
you have bump steer and like it? As for the alignment, it has no influence on the amount of bumpsteer, it's a geometry incompatability issue between the tie rods and upper and lower control arm.
I am curious about the alignment specs you used.
To all members here: do you have stock or performance
alignments?
I have a agressive align and have bump steer,
well worth it to me
what alignment figures you've got?
i've changed mine so many times and have gone to so many different shops to do it, there is always something that does not satisfy me, i'm still looking for the 'ultimate' alignment but maybe it doesnt exist!
Not intending to change the subject, Panic. But, since you mentioned it, do you know what the spring rates are on your front monospring at the different settings? I'm especially interested in what the "heaviest" spring rate setting is.
Not intending to change the subject, Panic. But, since you mentioned it, do you know what the spring rates are on your front monospring at the different settings? I'm especially interested in what the "heaviest" spring rate setting is.
I asked VBP the same question when I was installing my monoleaf conversion. Here's what they said:
Our front monospring system has the four position adjustments for spring rate. When explaining the positions, I use our fixed rate rear spring rates as a basis.
For example, the first position (the innermost two positions) would be like our 300# spring, a very, soft comfortable ride for the earlier Corvettes.
The second position outward, is where you would start since you have a 1980, and that would be like our 330# spring and would be a comfortable, street driving ride.
The third position out would be similar to our 360# spring that is a little stiffer and lower for light autocrossing and racing.
The fourth position would equate to our extreme spring and would have the lowest arch and highest rate for serious and drag racing, similar to our 420#.
I asked VBP the same question when I was installing my monoleaf conversion. Here's what they said:
Our front monospring system has the four position adjustments for spring rate. When explaining the positions, I use our fixed rate rear spring rates as a basis.
For example, the first position (the innermost two positions) would be like our 300# spring, a very, soft comfortable ride for the earlier Corvettes.
The second position outward, is where you would start since you have a 1980, and that would be like our 330# spring and would be a comfortable, street driving ride.
The third position out would be similar to our 360# spring that is a little stiffer and lower for light autocrossing and racing.
The fourth position would equate to our extreme spring and would have the lowest arch and highest rate for serious and drag racing, similar to our 420#.
I asked VBP the same question when I was installing my monoleaf conversion. Here's what they said:
Our front monospring system has the four position adjustments for spring rate. When explaining the positions, I use our fixed rate rear spring rates as a basis.
For example, the first position (the innermost two positions) would be like our 300# spring, a very, soft comfortable ride for the earlier Corvettes.
The second position outward, is where you would start since you have a 1980, and that would be like our 330# spring and would be a comfortable, street driving ride.
The third position out would be similar to our 360# spring that is a little stiffer and lower for light autocrossing and racing.
The fourth position would equate to our extreme spring and would have the lowest arch and highest rate for serious and drag racing, similar to our 420#.
Thanks for the info! I take it that they were comparing the performance levels with which rear springs the front monospring settings would go with. I asked the question once on the phone with VB&P and did not get as specific a response as you did. I interpret their response to mean that the 2nd position would be somewhat comparable to their 460 front coil more or less and the 3rd position would be like their 550 coil and the 4th position would be even stiffer. They really need to put that type of info on this spring in their product description.
Last edited by 74L82Cpe; Jan 28, 2007 at 02:09 PM.