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Timing question - sorta ?

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Old Jan 26, 2007 | 10:59 PM
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Default Timing question - sorta ?

I have just replaced the rear main seal and oil pump on my 74 big block. Timing chain set and a comp 268 cam is next.

I have set the timing mark DEAD on the zero mark on the stock indicator tab. The rotor button IS pointing exactly at the #1 position in the distributor.

Should the #1 piston be perfectly at the TOP (dead center) of it's stroke?

(It's close, but...the piston is a "few" degrees" short of the TDC...with the timing mark on zero....that's why I am asking)

Thanks........Fred............

Last edited by fotyfobravo; Jan 26, 2007 at 11:21 PM.
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Old Jan 26, 2007 | 11:16 PM
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Your probably very close with that. If you have a points type dizzy, you could dry time it perfectly.
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Old Jan 26, 2007 | 11:21 PM
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Hey Fred,
It "should" be at the top of it's stroke but a worn timing chain could cause the problem you're having. Easy way to check it:

Rotate the crank pulley about 15 or 20 degrees clockwise. Then, with the distributor cap off slowly rotate the crank pulley counterclockwise and see if the rotor moves as soon as you start to move the crank pulley. If it doesn't you have a pretty sloppy timing chain.

I have seen these with enough slop that you move the crank pulley quite a bit before the rotor starts to move. If you're going to replace the timing set soon, no problem.
Best,
Greg
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Old Jan 26, 2007 | 11:40 PM
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Make sure you're at TDC (or close) just after the compression stroke. If unsure, you'll need to take off the driver's side valve cover and watch the #1 rockers.
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 12:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Greg
Hey Fred,
It "should" be at the top of it's stroke but a worn timing chain could cause the problem you're having. Easy way to check it:

Rotate the crank pulley about 15 or 20 degrees clockwise. Then, with the distributor cap off slowly rotate the crank pulley counterclockwise and see if the rotor moves as soon as you start to move the crank pulley. If it doesn't you have a pretty sloppy timing chain.

I have seen these with enough slop that you move the crank pulley quite a bit before the rotor starts to move. If you're going to replace the timing set soon, no problem.
Best,
Greg
Huh? How does a worn timing chain alter the relationship of the balancer mark and the piston position?
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by fotyfobravo
I have just replaced the rear main seal and oil pump on my 74 big block. Timing chain set and a comp 268 cam is next.

I have set the timing mark DEAD on the zero mark on the stock indicator tab. The rotor button IS pointing exactly at the #1 position in the distributor.

Should the #1 piston be perfectly at the TOP (dead center) of it's stroke?

(It's close, but...the piston is a "few" degrees" short of the TDC...with the timing mark on zero....that's why I am asking)

Thanks........Fred............
I think you're close enough. The few degrees you're seeing is most probably the result of a slipped outer ring on your balancer. Sounds like another "while you're at it" to me.
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 09:45 AM
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Thanks for all the input. I have never replaced a cam before. I just wanted to see that I "understood" the basics of what I was starting. Sounds like a fresh timing chain/gears and a new balancer would be wise, while I'm there.

Last edited by fotyfobravo; Jan 27, 2007 at 09:35 PM.
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Big2Bird
Huh? How does a worn timing chain alter the relationship of the balancer mark and the piston position?
You're absolutely right Big2Bird. My mistake. I was focused on the rotor pointing to number one position not being in sync with the balancer.

Of course the piston should be at the top of its stroke with the balancer at zero.

The only reason it may not be is if the balancer has slipped on its rubber mounting.
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Greg
The only reason it may not be is if the balancer has slipped on its rubber mounting.
Yeah...they can slip after they get old...just make a note of how much it is off so you can get the timing more accurate when you get it running.
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 09:12 PM
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by fotyfobravo
Thanks for all the input. I have never replaced a cam before. I just wanted to see that I "understood" the basics of what I was starting. Sounds like a fresh timing chain/gears and a new balancer would be wise, while I'm there.
YEP...just got into the chain...pretty slack. Probably about 6 degrees of dead turn turn between crank and cam movement. I will replace the cam...both gears...chain and the balancer.

Would you believe this all started out as just a "good engine compartment clean up!"

Thanks for the help .... Fred
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 09:44 PM
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It Sounds Like One Of Those Things That Only Happens To Me!!!
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by fotyfobravo
YEP...just got into the chain...pretty slack. Probably about 6 degrees of dead turn turn between crank and cam movement. I will replace the cam...both gears...chain and the balancer.

Would you believe this all started out as just a "good engine compartment clean up!"

Thanks for the help .... Fred
Yes, I believe it. Warning, my timing chain project became my crate engine project.
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Big2Bird
Yes, I believe it. Warning, my timing chain project became my crate engine project.
Amazing how good these old motors run even with considerable wear and neglect!

Last edited by fotyfobravo; Jan 28, 2007 at 08:09 AM.
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 10:40 AM
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Check the position of the marks on the timing gears too. If #1 cylinder is in the firing position, the timing marks on the gears will be at 12 o'clock. Crank gear marks and Cam gear marks. Install them the same way. Personally, I like to be in the #6 position, I find it easier to see that the marks are lined up together in that position. It really makes NO difference, as long as you get them in line with each other.

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