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Thanks to advice and encouragement from CF members, I began the rebuild of my steering system this morning. All of the parts are now collected, ready for installation. So far, I have removed and rebuilt the steering cylinder; that was quite easy, though not yet pressure tested. The valve is disconnected, but I am having considerable difficulty seperating it from the Pitman arm. Any suggestions from those who have done this operation before?
i smacked the living crap from mine and it fell out, but i also went for a rebuilt from Napa so im not worried about the old one at all.short of that, the thing i believe if original it press fit in there...i think? i just got done rebuilding my 79 steering and man, what a difference.
Use a tie rod fork, or ball joint "pickle" fork. Put it in between the drag link and the valve body and smack it with a 3lb. hammer. If you dont have one , get one. there cheap! Best of luck.
Use a tie rod fork, or ball joint "pickle" fork. Put it in between the drag link and the valve body and smack it with a 3lb. hammer. If you dont have one , get one. there cheap! Best of luck.
Good plan, since I already have those tools. I'm just a little nervous about damaging the valve. Thanks for the help.
My PS valve was leaking. The leak was coming from the ball stud on the PS control valve. I put the pickle fork between the pitman arm and valve and took three good whacks at it with a 3lb hammer. Three good whacks did it for me.
Last edited by Oldguard 7; Jan 28, 2007 at 01:00 AM.
Good thread and advice. Now I'm thinking about visiting Autozone tomorrow and renting the ball joint removal tool. Sounds like it might save a lot of time and wear on the valve. I really appreciate the tips, and that Jim Shea has some excellent instructions on the whole process. They worked well for rebuilding the cylinder.
I have 2 pullers and a ball joint remover tool, but none of them would fit on the pitman arm to control valve joint. The pickle fork works pretty well, but you need to be careful not to damage the ball stud($40 to replace)
a tie rod end puller will work too. It sounds like I had an easier time. only took me a few minutes to seperate the joint with it. They are just as cheap as the pickle forks too.
Autozone had the ball joint puller for a $20 deposit. Someone had bent the arms too wide, so after bending them back into shape, I went to work on the steering valve. Six to ten revolutions on the puller bolt and pop; off came the valve from the pitman arm.
Shea's papers say to remove the bolts and separate the valve body. Not a porblem, but here are a few questions.
Does anyone know what kind of bolt heads they are?
Are they Torx heads?
Are they original for a '72 SB or has the valve been replaced?
Sorry for the bad photo. I'll try to take a better one if needed. Better pic here:
Last edited by Vette Set; Jan 28, 2007 at 11:20 PM.
After replacing mine with a rebuild a couple of times I found out Autozone gives a lifetime warrenty so I bought one of their's. It has been good for 4 years but know I see it has a leak, puddle under the car. I guess it will be changed this spring when I pull it out from winter storage.
Autozone had the ball joint puller for a $20 deposit. Someone had bent the arms too wide, so after bending them back into shape, I went to work on the steering valve. Six to ten revolutions on the puller bolt and pop; off came the valve from the pitman arm.
Shea's papers say to remove the bolts and separate the valve body. Not a porblem, but here are a few questions.
Does anyone know what kind of bolt heads they are?
Are they Torx heads?
Are they original for a '72 SB or has the valve been replaced?
Sorry for the bad photo. I'll try to take a better one if needed.
I don't think Torx heads existed in 72. If I'm looking at what I think I am it looks like you have corroded rounded off bolt heads that no known socket will fit. If that is the case, you could either use Vice Grips or the extractor sockets that fit over damaged bolt heads.
I would spray the bolts with PB Blaster for a couple of days prior to attempting to remove the bolts. PB can work wonders on the most rusted bolts but it sometimes takes a little time.
I don't think Torx heads existed in 72. If I'm looking at what I think I am it looks like you have corroded rounded off bolt heads that no known socket will fit. If that is the case, you could either use Vice Grips or the extractor sockets that fit over damaged bolt heads.
I would spray the bolts with PB Blaster for a couple of days prior to attempting to remove the bolts. PB can work wonders on the most rusted bolts but it sometimes takes a little time.
Rick B.
72LS1Vette - I'm not sure if Torx heads were used in 72. I doubt it. These bolts aren't rounded off, so Vice Grips are not really necessary. The heads have a dfeinite shape, just not a hex head. After using a different camera that allows good closeup shots, I took this one of the the bolt. Thanks anyway for the advice.
it's a 12-point bolt, 7/16" if memory serves, and they're original. I got lucky as 7/16 was the largest 12-point socket I had, but most hardware stores should sell them.
it's a 12-point bolt, 7/16" if memory serves, and they're original. I got lucky as 7/16 was the largest 12-point socket I had, but most hardware stores should sell them.
Thanks, chris73cpe. This is the first bolt I have seen like this. I have a few 7/16" sockets around. Some of my better ones should be of the 12 point configuration.
Last edited by Vette Set; Jan 29, 2007 at 09:57 AM.