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Steering valve removal

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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 08:38 PM
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Default Steering valve removal

Thanks to advice and encouragement from CF members, I began the rebuild of my steering system this morning. All of the parts are now collected, ready for installation. So far, I have removed and rebuilt the steering cylinder; that was quite easy, though not yet pressure tested. The valve is disconnected, but I am having considerable difficulty seperating it from the Pitman arm. Any suggestions from those who have done this operation before?
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 09:17 PM
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i smacked the living crap from mine and it fell out, but i also went for a rebuilt from Napa so im not worried about the old one at all.short of that, the thing i believe if original it press fit in there...i think? i just got done rebuilding my 79 steering and man, what a difference.
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 10:20 PM
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I guess I'll have to do the same, with care of course, and hope I don't beat it up too bad.
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 11:18 PM
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Use a tie rod fork, or ball joint "pickle" fork. Put it in between the drag link and the valve body and smack it with a 3lb. hammer. If you dont have one , get one. there cheap! Best of luck.
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 4-vettes
Use a tie rod fork, or ball joint "pickle" fork. Put it in between the drag link and the valve body and smack it with a 3lb. hammer. If you dont have one , get one. there cheap! Best of luck.
Good plan, since I already have those tools. I'm just a little nervous about damaging the valve. Thanks for the help.
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 12:34 AM
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Get that pickle fork wedged in there and keep beating on it.


http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1557864


My Thanksgiving weekend was half spent beating on that sumbeeootch.



Oh, and upgrade to a four pound hammer, but it might still take the better part of a day to get that thing off.
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 12:57 AM
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My PS valve was leaking. The leak was coming from the ball stud on the PS control valve. I put the pickle fork between the pitman arm and valve and took three good whacks at it with a 3lb hammer. Three good whacks did it for me.

Last edited by Oldguard 7; Jan 28, 2007 at 01:00 AM.
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 01:19 AM
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Originally Posted by DVNTST8


Looks like my PS valve now. one of my next projects. guess Ill have to warn the wife of the pounding and swearing.
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 01:35 AM
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Good thread and advice. Now I'm thinking about visiting Autozone tomorrow and renting the ball joint removal tool. Sounds like it might save a lot of time and wear on the valve. I really appreciate the tips, and that Jim Shea has some excellent instructions on the whole process. They worked well for rebuilding the cylinder.
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 01:52 AM
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I have a rebuild kit. maybe ill try that 1st
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 02:15 AM
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I have 2 pullers and a ball joint remover tool, but none of them would fit on the pitman arm to control valve joint. The pickle fork works pretty well, but you need to be careful not to damage the ball stud($40 to replace)
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 02:45 AM
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a tie rod end puller will work too. It sounds like I had an easier time. only took me a few minutes to seperate the joint with it. They are just as cheap as the pickle forks too.
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 06:58 PM
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Autozone had the ball joint puller for a $20 deposit. Someone had bent the arms too wide, so after bending them back into shape, I went to work on the steering valve. Six to ten revolutions on the puller bolt and pop; off came the valve from the pitman arm.

Shea's papers say to remove the bolts and separate the valve body. Not a porblem, but here are a few questions.

Does anyone know what kind of bolt heads they are?
Are they Torx heads?
Are they original for a '72 SB or has the valve been replaced?

Sorry for the bad photo. I'll try to take a better one if needed. Better pic here:



Last edited by Vette Set; Jan 28, 2007 at 11:20 PM.
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 07:42 PM
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After replacing mine with a rebuild a couple of times I found out Autozone gives a lifetime warrenty so I bought one of their's. It has been good for 4 years but know I see it has a leak, puddle under the car. I guess it will be changed this spring when I pull it out from winter storage.
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Vette Set
Autozone had the ball joint puller for a $20 deposit. Someone had bent the arms too wide, so after bending them back into shape, I went to work on the steering valve. Six to ten revolutions on the puller bolt and pop; off came the valve from the pitman arm.

Shea's papers say to remove the bolts and separate the valve body. Not a porblem, but here are a few questions.

Does anyone know what kind of bolt heads they are?
Are they Torx heads?
Are they original for a '72 SB or has the valve been replaced?

Sorry for the bad photo. I'll try to take a better one if needed.

I don't think Torx heads existed in 72. If I'm looking at what I think I am it looks like you have corroded rounded off bolt heads that no known socket will fit. If that is the case, you could either use Vice Grips or the extractor sockets that fit over damaged bolt heads.

I would spray the bolts with PB Blaster for a couple of days prior to attempting to remove the bolts. PB can work wonders on the most rusted bolts but it sometimes takes a little time.



Rick B.
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 72LS1Vette
I don't think Torx heads existed in 72. If I'm looking at what I think I am it looks like you have corroded rounded off bolt heads that no known socket will fit. If that is the case, you could either use Vice Grips or the extractor sockets that fit over damaged bolt heads.

I would spray the bolts with PB Blaster for a couple of days prior to attempting to remove the bolts. PB can work wonders on the most rusted bolts but it sometimes takes a little time.



Rick B.
72LS1Vette - I'm not sure if Torx heads were used in 72. I doubt it. These bolts aren't rounded off, so Vice Grips are not really necessary. The heads have a dfeinite shape, just not a hex head. After using a different camera that allows good closeup shots, I took this one of the the bolt. Thanks anyway for the advice.

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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 11:32 PM
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it's a 12-point bolt, 7/16" if memory serves, and they're original. I got lucky as 7/16 was the largest 12-point socket I had, but most hardware stores should sell them.
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by chris73cpe
it's a 12-point bolt, 7/16" if memory serves, and they're original. I got lucky as 7/16 was the largest 12-point socket I had, but most hardware stores should sell them.
Thanks, chris73cpe. This is the first bolt I have seen like this. I have a few 7/16" sockets around. Some of my better ones should be of the 12 point configuration.

Last edited by Vette Set; Jan 29, 2007 at 09:57 AM.
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 12:56 AM
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The new hoses you have (if you have new hoses) the fittings on them will allow you to use a regular open end wrench.
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