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Should this cam be a "stinker"

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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 12:11 PM
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Default Should this cam be a "stinker"

The cam in my bill mitchell 427 small block was replaced by the preious owner with this one.

Crane Cams Part number 119661

Lift: Intake @Cam 359 @Valve 539 All Lifts are based
on zero lash and theoretical rocker arm ratios.
Exhaust @ Cam 372 @Valve 558
Rocker Arm Ratio 1.50

Cam Timing: TAPPET @.004
Lift: Opens Closes ADV Duration
Intake 35.0 BTDC 77.0 ABDC 292 °
Exhaust 83.0 BBDC 37.0 ATDC 300 °

Spring Requirements: Triple Dual Outer Inner
Part Number 99838
Loads Closed 112 LBS @ 1.650 or 1 21/32
Open 327 LBS @ 1.120
Recommended RPM range with matching components
Minimum RPM 2600
Maximum RPM 6600
Valve Float 7000

Cam Timing: TAPPET @.050
Lift: Opens Closes Max Lift Duration
Intake 8.0 BTDC 42.0 ABDC 107 230 °
Exhaust 56.0 BBDC 2.0 ATDC 117 238 °

At idle the exhaust fumes are unbearable. I set the Fuel air mixture using a vacum gauge and it seems dead on. Engine sounds great, idles great, but the fumes are REALLY nasty at idle. It smells lean to me, but is it unburned gas from this cams overlap?? If its fine, I am going to lose the sidepipes and make someone else breath that chit in. Its a holly carb, but I believe bill mitchell does extensive mods to the carb so specs are unknown.
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by BigBadOrange
The cam in my bill mitchell 427 small block was replaced by the preious owner with this one.

Crane Cams Part number 119661
This is a very mild cam for a 427. My first BM 427 had 242/248 110 LSA with .620/.620.

You need to look at how to lean out the idle. This is not caused by a mild cam. Most extensively modded carbs include things like I did of drilling the primary throttle blades starting with a 1/8th inch hole.
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 12:51 PM
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Sounds like your carb needs some work done on the idle circuit. If it has the adjustable metering blocks, you can decrease the size of the idle feed restrictors. If the carb has the classic holley metering blocks you can put some thin wires in the idle fuel passage.

Brett

EDIT: I have a picture I can email you that shows the passage the wires need to go into.
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 01:23 PM
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Have someone stick a 5-gas emissions analyzer in one or both side exhaust before you start changing stuff. My experience is that rich mixtures, while mildly annoying, are nothing like an excessively lean mixture. Very high hydrocarbons (ppm) tend to burn the eyes, cause headaches and generally smell terrible to the senses. I'd guess that at this point ...

Hans
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 01:51 PM
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How much vacumn does it have? should have plenty ,if not check to see what the power valve is opening at.
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 02:04 PM
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cool, so it sounds fixable. GKULL, do you mean that even using the 4 idle circuit screws, and vacume readings that I could be missing something?

Brett could you pm me those pictures?

thanks,

--marc

ps I understand how open ended my question is with a unknown modified carb and really appreciate your input.
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 02:09 PM
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I will try and recheck it tonight, I last tried adjusting it a couple of months ago, so I will recheck the vacum settings. I know it had decent vacum, and thats why I used vacum readings and the idle mixture screws to try and adjust the idle.

Is there anytime that an engine will idle worse and pull lower vacum, but be correct (a/f ratio), then using the idle screws, vacum guage, and sound of idle?

Last edited by BigBadRed; Jan 29, 2007 at 02:14 PM.
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 02:12 PM
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Like Brettmc said: restricting the idle feed circuits. I have Demon carbs so they are manufactured way rich on the older style. The problem is that the four corner idle screws are not able to lean the idle mixture all the way.

I drilled holes in all four throttle blades to induce something like a vacuum leak to lean the A/F ratio. Then I was able to dial in the four corners using a vacuum gauge.
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by gkull
The problem is that the four corner idle screws are not able to lean the idle mixture all the way.
Exactly. The idle mixture screws only affect the amount of air/fuel mixture in the idle circuit, NOT the emulsion characteristics, ie the a/f ratio. You need to have less gas in the mixture. The wires take up space in the idle passage, decreasing the amount of gas in the mix which leans out the a/f ratio.

I don't have that picture posted so PM me your email address and I'll send her your way.

Brett

EDIT: Drill the throttle blades only as a last resort. I drilled mine early in my tuning efforts only to discover it caused a problem later. I did a nono and filled the holes with jb weld.

Last edited by Brettmc; Jan 29, 2007 at 05:21 PM.
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 12:01 PM
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I recently sold a car and had an a/f meter and 02 sensor that I had removed before selling and had forgotten about. I installed it last night and after letting the engine warm up got idle readings around high 11s to low 12s. Adjusted idle screws and got the readings high 12s to low 13s. Can I lean this further to high 13s low 14s, or will this make the transition circuit to lean. Also, it has a pressure gauge on the fuel line reading 15psi. I am sure that is causing some problems, but I also noticed an adjustable pressure regulator installed on the firewall and nothing connected to the return side. Is there ANY reason NOT to have the return line connected??? I thought this was very bizzare.
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 01:24 PM
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Sometimes good idle readings in the garage translate to a horrible transition on the road. Road test your adjustments with a data logger (wife/SO)

You're right, 15 is too much. It should be 7-9. A return line is not necessary but your fuel pump will love you if you do have one.

Last edited by Brettmc; Jan 30, 2007 at 03:01 PM.
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 01:28 PM
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I'm of the older school and 5 psi is plenty. but I do use the biggest diameter titanium needle and seats
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Brettmc
Sometimes good idle readings in the garage translate to a horrible transition on the road. Road test your adjustments with a data logger (wife/SO)

You're right, 15 is too much. It should be 7-9. A return line is not necessary but your fuel pump with love you if you do have one.
Ill do the road test, but do you think its safe to lean out to high 13s/low 14s at idle to start with? Seriously don't want to create a lean condition further down the carb circuits.

A return line is not necessary I didn't know that, I guess i really did grow up with fuel injection!
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Brettmc
You're right, 15 is too much. It should be 7-9.
Does fuel pressure have any significant effect on the idle mixture? Would dropping from 9 psi to 5 or 6 make a noticaible change?
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by BigBadOrange
Ill do the road test, but do you think its safe to lean out to high 13s/low 14s at idle to start with? Seriously don't want to create a lean condition further down the carb circuits.

A return line is not necessary I didn't know that, I guess i really did grow up with fuel injection!
If you can keep it in the 13s all the way through to WOT, you're in business.

You should inject that 427 then! I grew up on carbs and I'm trying hard to resist injection.
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by bashcraft
Does fuel pressure have any significant effect on the idle mixture? Would dropping from 9 psi to 5 or 6 make a noticaible change?
I know float level has a slight effect on a/f ratio. Pressure change might but I don't know for sure.
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Brettmc
If you can keep it in the 13s all the way through to WOT, you're in business.

You should inject that 427 then! I grew up on carbs and I'm trying hard to resist injection.
I actually have a holley 4di port system in my garage, but its for a big block. Its VERY tempting, luckily its big $ that I don't have right now.
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 04:02 PM
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If the fuel pressure is too much higher then 7-9psi, the fuel will bleed past the needle and seat and over flow the float bowls. Sometimes it may not spew out the vent, sometimes it might but either way that extra fuel will get into the engine through the boosters.

Get your wide open throttle AFR in the 12.8-13.0 range, leave your cruise/part throttle in the 13.2-13.6 range and the idle AFR can also be in the mid 13s when HOT. Keep in mind though if you set the carb up to deliver a 13.5 AFR at idle when hot, when you start it cold its not going to want to idle well because the AFR will be in the 14.0-14.5 range. UNLESS you have a functioning choke. If you set the AFR to say, 13.0-13.2 or so at idle when its cold so it will idle well without having to throttle it, its going to be rich when hot, like in the 12.5-1 range, HENCE the smell, burning eyes etc.

LM1 dataloggers rule. Its like the toy you can never put down when you start tuning.
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