Should this cam be a "stinker"
Crane Cams Part number 119661
Lift: Intake @Cam 359 @Valve 539 All Lifts are based
on zero lash and theoretical rocker arm ratios.
Exhaust @ Cam 372 @Valve 558
Rocker Arm Ratio 1.50
Cam Timing: TAPPET @.004
Lift: Opens Closes ADV Duration
Intake 35.0 BTDC 77.0 ABDC 292 °
Exhaust 83.0 BBDC 37.0 ATDC 300 °
Spring Requirements: Triple Dual Outer Inner
Part Number 99838
Loads Closed 112 LBS @ 1.650 or 1 21/32
Open 327 LBS @ 1.120
Recommended RPM range with matching components
Minimum RPM 2600
Maximum RPM 6600
Valve Float 7000
Cam Timing: TAPPET @.050
Lift: Opens Closes Max Lift Duration
Intake 8.0 BTDC 42.0 ABDC 107 230 °
Exhaust 56.0 BBDC 2.0 ATDC 117 238 °
At idle the exhaust fumes are unbearable. I set the Fuel air mixture using a vacum gauge and it seems dead on. Engine sounds great, idles great, but the fumes are REALLY nasty at idle. It smells lean to me, but is it unburned gas from this cams overlap?? If its fine, I am going to lose the sidepipes and make someone else breath that chit in.
Its a holly carb, but I believe bill mitchell does extensive mods to the carb so specs are unknown.





You need to look at how to lean out the idle. This is not caused by a mild cam. Most extensively modded carbs include things like I did of drilling the primary throttle blades starting with a 1/8th inch hole.
Brett
EDIT: I have a picture I can email you that shows the passage the wires need to go into.
Hans
Brett could you pm me those pictures?
thanks,
--marc
ps I understand how open ended my question is with a unknown modified carb and really appreciate your input.
Is there anytime that an engine will idle worse and pull lower vacum, but be correct (a/f ratio), then using the idle screws, vacum guage, and sound of idle?
Last edited by BigBadRed; Jan 29, 2007 at 02:14 PM.





I drilled holes in all four throttle blades to induce something like a vacuum leak to lean the A/F ratio. Then I was able to dial in the four corners using a vacuum gauge.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I don't have that picture posted so PM me your email address and I'll send her your way.
Brett
EDIT: Drill the throttle blades only as a last resort. I drilled mine early in my tuning efforts only to discover it caused a problem later. I did a nono and filled the holes with jb weld.
Last edited by Brettmc; Jan 29, 2007 at 05:21 PM.
I am sure that is causing some problems, but I also noticed an adjustable pressure regulator installed on the firewall and nothing connected to the return side. Is there ANY reason NOT to have the return line connected??? I thought this was very bizzare.

You're right, 15 is too much. It should be 7-9. A return line is not necessary but your fuel pump will love you if you do have one.
Last edited by Brettmc; Jan 30, 2007 at 03:01 PM.

You're right, 15 is too much. It should be 7-9. A return line is not necessary but your fuel pump with love you if you do have one.
A return line is not necessary I didn't know that, I guess i really did grow up with fuel injection!
A return line is not necessary I didn't know that, I guess i really did grow up with fuel injection!

You should inject that 427 then! I grew up on carbs and I'm trying hard to resist injection.
Get your wide open throttle AFR in the 12.8-13.0 range, leave your cruise/part throttle in the 13.2-13.6 range and the idle AFR can also be in the mid 13s when HOT. Keep in mind though if you set the carb up to deliver a 13.5 AFR at idle when hot, when you start it cold its not going to want to idle well because the AFR will be in the 14.0-14.5 range. UNLESS you have a functioning choke. If you set the AFR to say, 13.0-13.2 or so at idle when its cold so it will idle well without having to throttle it, its going to be rich when hot, like in the 12.5-1 range, HENCE the smell, burning eyes etc.
LM1 dataloggers rule. Its like the toy you can never put down when you start tuning.












