Will the real bleeding sequence please stand up?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,589
Likes: 5
From: Salisbury Maryland
Will the real bleeding sequence please stand up?
O.K., I've been reading these threads to death!
Can someone please tell me the proper sequence, there's like four different ways in here...
Can someone please tell me the proper sequence, there's like four different ways in here...
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 10,362
Likes: 5
From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
- Right Rear Inner
- Right Rear Outer
- Left Rear Inner
- Left Rear Outer
- Right Front
- Left Front
- That's all
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,589
Likes: 5
From: Salisbury Maryland
Thanks!
I'm putting new calipers on today and want to be absolutely sure. That sequence seems right to me since you start with the furthest caliper from the MC first.
There are some threads on here that say LF first???
I'm putting new calipers on today and want to be absolutely sure. That sequence seems right to me since you start with the furthest caliper from the MC first.
There are some threads on here that say LF first???
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 10,362
Likes: 5
From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
RR is the first starting point. Some may choose to go to the outer bleeder first, or go to the left rear inner after doing the RRI but the RR is always a starting point.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 7,477
Likes: 1,495
From: Little Rock AR
This is not rocket science. The only tricky part is remembering to do the inner screw on each rear caliper before you do the outer one. If you try to do the outer one first, the inner chamber will be full of air and the fluid will have to travel past that air filled chamber on the way to the outer screw. Tiny air bubbles will be pulled from the inner chamber to the outer one a little at a time as the fluid passes by on its way to the outer screw. You can probably visualize what I am saying. If you do the inner chamber screw first, you can get that air out of the way and the outer one will go a lot faster.
As for the rest of the sequence, it is all about saving time and fluid.
-Mark.
As for the rest of the sequence, it is all about saving time and fluid.
-Mark.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 10,560
Likes: 439
From: Wellington, FL
St. Jude Donor '11 thru '25
According to the 1974 GM shop manual, start at the wheel CLOSEST to the m/c. That of course would be the left. It goes on to say that you can either start at the front or rear, as these cars have split systems. To be honest, I always started on the right side and worked my way from the RR to the LF which I did last, and have never had a problem. From now on though, I'll do it the GM way. This is GM's opinion, not mine, so don't shoot the messenger.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,589
Likes: 5
From: Salisbury Maryland
Well, I finished installing the new calipers all the way around
. As I did each caliper, I let fluid run though the system and drain. When I completed each caliper, I pulled vacuum at the bleeders with the Mity Vac. After completing all 4, I bled 3 times in this sequence:
RR inner
RR outer
LR inner
LR outer
RF
LF
After three bleed's, I got pedal! It's a little spongy for non-power brakes, so I'm going to let it go 100 miles and re-bleed again.
For anyone with questionable brakes
, I would suggest a full caliper inspection
. I thought mine all looked good, but two of them(left rear and right front) were unquestionably bad
, and leaking or pulling in air. What a difference! I feel safe now(thank God!
).
Unfortunately, while I had the Vette up on the lift, I noticed 1) My power steering hoses need replaced
, and 2) The starter wiring needs attention.
So, I've got a couple more things to do before spring arrives....yeah.
. As I did each caliper, I let fluid run though the system and drain. When I completed each caliper, I pulled vacuum at the bleeders with the Mity Vac. After completing all 4, I bled 3 times in this sequence:RR inner
RR outer
LR inner
LR outer
RF
LF
After three bleed's, I got pedal!
It's a little spongy for non-power brakes, so I'm going to let it go 100 miles and re-bleed again. For anyone with questionable brakes
, I would suggest a full caliper inspection . I thought mine all looked good, but two of them(left rear and right front) were unquestionably bad , and leaking or pulling in air. What a difference! I feel safe now(thank God! ).Unfortunately, while I had the Vette up on the lift, I noticed 1) My power steering hoses need replaced
, and 2) The starter wiring needs attention.So, I've got a couple more things to do before spring arrives....yeah.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 8,918
Likes: 27
From: New Hill NC
I have read these threads for years and have worked on these things for 37 years. There must be a hundred different theorys, but in my opinion it really dont make a damn which caliper you do first. I never pay any attention to what pattern. The technique makes the difference.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,407
Likes: 2
From: Carmichael CA
The odd thing is that the State of California Bureau of Automotive Repair Brake Manual that I learned bleeding from said to always start with the bleeder which is furthest away from the master cylinder...which is where the order beginning with the rear bleeders comes from.
But, here's my analysis: When you pump fluid into the system then the fluid at the intersection of the lines through which clean fluid is flowing and the lnes which are still plugged will be pulsating and mixing the dirty fluid with the clean fluid. Thus, it makes sense to start with the bleeders which are closest to the master cylinder so that as you bleed the system you are always flushing each bleeder with as clean a fluid as possible. Oh, there will still be some contamination at the intersections, but it seems there will be far less if bleeding is done from the ones closest to the m/c.
But, here's my analysis: When you pump fluid into the system then the fluid at the intersection of the lines through which clean fluid is flowing and the lnes which are still plugged will be pulsating and mixing the dirty fluid with the clean fluid. Thus, it makes sense to start with the bleeders which are closest to the master cylinder so that as you bleed the system you are always flushing each bleeder with as clean a fluid as possible. Oh, there will still be some contamination at the intersections, but it seems there will be far less if bleeding is done from the ones closest to the m/c.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 10,643
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From: Foxfield CO 1970 Convertible
I have read these threads for years and have worked on these things for 37 years. There must be a hundred different theorys, but in my opinion it really dont make a damn which caliper you do first. I never pay any attention to what pattern. The technique makes the difference.
The idea is to get all the air out.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,672
Likes: 1
From: New Cumberland PA
I have read these threads for years and have worked on these things for 37 years. There must be a hundred different theorys, but in my opinion it really dont make a damn which caliper you do first. I never pay any attention to what pattern. The technique makes the difference.
The purpose of bleeding is to get the air out. I use a cheap bleeder kit from Harbor Freight; less than $5 and about $3 when on sale. The kit has a funnel type fitting that is held into the bleeder with about a 12" long clear plastic hose that then attaches to a small clear bottle. The bottle has a magnet which holds the bottle freeing up your hands. It allows for the capture of the fluid. The clear hose allows the user to visually look at the fluid to see if there are any bubbles present. Although a nice stream of brake fluid may come from the bleeder, you would be surprised to see the tiny air bubbles that come out. Just keep bleeding until the fluid is air free.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,738
Likes: 2
From: San diego ca
Just remember its a split system...there is no real reason why you couldnt bleed the fronts first in lieu of the rear. if for example you replaced a front caliper there should be absolutely no need to bleed the rears, since that system was never opened.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,547
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From: Carbondale Pa.
