When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
DAD GAVE HIS 75 VETTE.I HAD TO ASK 3 TIMES. I HAD A TOW TRUCK BRING IT HOME. THE CAR SAT FOR 11 YEARS. I PUT THE CAR IN GARGAE. MY PROBLEM IS THE PASSENGER SIDE REAR WHEEL WILL NOT MOVE. I HAVE NEVER WORKED ON A VETTE. PLEASE HELP.
That could be a number of things. If it rolled before it sat, the brake rotor could be rusted and seized. Once the car is running, this may break free under the engine's power.
However, it could also be a number of other things related to the rear drivetrain.
Your going to have to do a bit of surgery to get it workin. Pull the wheel and caliper off. If it still will not move you have to go further by removing the rotor, most likely its the emergency brake frozen to the inside of the drum part of the rotor. There is an adjustment hole in the face of the rotor, see if you can adjust the shoes a bit and unstick them. Could be wheel bearing but a lot less likely, to isolate it you will need to disconnect the u-jount from the halfshaft on that side.
DAD GAVE HIS 75 VETTE.I HAD TO ASK 3 TIMES. I HAD A TOW TRUCK BRING IT HOME. THE CAR SAT FOR 11 YEARS. I PUT THE CAR IN GARGAE. MY PROBLEM IS THE PASSENGER SIDE REAR WHEEL WILL NOT MOVE. I HAVE NEVER WORKED ON A VETTE. PLEASE HELP.
THANK YOU ONE AND ALL FOR YOUR HELP GOOD TO KNOW I"M NOT ALONE.
Had same problem when I bought my '78.Turned out a brake line was crimped.
Brake line collapse happened to me shortly after I got my 74 home--probably a real common problem. The outside of the line looked OK. And, mine would release and roll fine when cool. After driving and using the brakes, it would stick and heat up and then "freeze." I would go only a few blocks and have smoking brakes 'till they more or less locked up. Replacing the rubber brake lines is a relatively cheap fix and I would replace them all (in my opinion, with stainless braided)-- regardless of whether this turns out to be your problem or not.
If it is frozen just sitting there with no pressure on the brakes, I would refer to the SIXFOOTER post.
The E-brake hardware inside the rear rotor is the most likely cause for the wheel locking, especially since the car sat for so long. Take the wheel off and spray some PB Blaster (available at most parts stores) into the gap behind the rotor, into the holes in the face of the rotor, and down the top and side slots in the rotor itself. You can then put a large screwdriver or something similar into one of the rotor slots and start trying to move the rotor back and forth. When you see the rotor start moving even 1/8" you are on the road to success. It may take several PB sprayings and a couple hours of back and forth moving but the wheel will eventually free up.
Same thing happend to me on my left front. Original brake line had collapsed and it locked up solid. Damn thing looked good on the outside too.
Tell me about it, I been wrenching my own cars and doing crap for some 45 years now....and never once had a brake line seize up on me....but here in the last 4? years I have had two......the vette was the same left front, and the old Dodge truck was the pass side....calipers locked up but good.....
in all fairness I did start noticing a certain amount of blue tinge to the LF rotor on the vette well before the final failure....
hose blocked tighter than whale puzzy, and that's waterproof....