My power steering cap is too close to the lower alternator bracket, and the dipstick will not allow me to get it out. So I bought a new cap, and broke off the dipstick. The spring came off too, and for the moment I am pretending none of this matters.
My plan is to remove the lower alternator bracket, clean and paint it, and switch the correct cap for the bubba cap. I will figure out a way to check the fluid level later.
Is this just a bad idea in general?
Is there any way to make up for the missing spring? Should I double up on the gasket in the cap and hope that creates enough tension to keep the cap in place?
What color was my lower bracket when it was new?
Will krylon paint stand up to the temps the bracket will reach, or should I get some high temp engine paint?
Thanks,
Jim

 

Mine, and most other vettes are the same way. It just takes a little care to remove it: as soon as you get the cap loose, start turning it sideways to clear the alternator and it should come free. I use a long neck funnel if I have to add fluid (and I do since mine leaks and the PS valve is on the R&R list). I would use the original one since, due to the tight location of the pump, you won't be able to see the level and know you need fluid or are losing fluid. On the paint, you'll have to use hi-temp paint on anything on or close to the engine; I know this from experience! My .02!


[Modified by Marks69BB, 11:53 AM 10/5/2001]

 

A longer or shorter P/S belt will eliminate the cap-too-close-to-the-bracket problem. Just bring your current belt into a decent parts store, and have them match up a longer/shorter one. I went for a longer one, but make sure there is room to move the pump out a bit.

 

Thank you for the replies! But the problem is the cap will not clear. The pump was moved and a shorter belt was used because it was rubbing the frame. I guess I could get a new smaller pulley and move the pump/try a new belt, but if I can fix this for $3, I will. I too need a new valve, and I actaully have one. It isn't doing me much good sitting in the box :D
As far as the paint, do you use primer when using engine paint?
Thanks again,
Jim

 

Mine is the same way, there isnt enough room to even get close to getting it off, maybe half an inch clearance. Nice to know I dont have the wrong brackets as I have been thinking it was

 

Ok, so I made a bubba cap. This took a lot of time and creativity. But I seem to remember that power steering is under a lot of pressure? I mean, I would trust my bubba cap on the wiper fluid, but not a radiator, and my fears of spitting fluid everywhere made me abandon the true bubba route. This project has become a mission, and I am preparing to lock myself in the garage and come back a bruised and bandaged winner.
So the new plan is:
To get a smaller pulley. How hard is it to replace a pulley? Can I get one at napa, or do I need to order a custom fancy pulley from mid america/ecklers/zip? Will this have any negative effect on anything? I am assuming it will make steering resistance a little stiffer, and I can live with that.
Thanks,
Jim

 

A little Power Steering Cap 101 lesson.

The power steering pump cap is a bit more sophisticated than just a screw on cap with a gasket and a stick attached. It has to perform the following functions: Prevent fluid from splashing out while driving, provide a pressure relief function to prevent overpressure in the reservoir, provide a mechanical latch to the reservoir, provide a convenient method of measuring the fluid level both hot and cold, along with being easily accessable (whoops!)

The cap is actually assembled from several parts. The stick portion is separate from the upper cap part. Buried inside the cap and between the two parts is a rubber valve that allows air to escape from the reservoir when the system gets hot, fluid expands, and there is a small pressure buildup (10 psi) in the reservoir. However, this valve is clever in that it lets air back into the reservoir when the system fluid temperature cools down. So despite the fact that the pump can develop 1200 psi fluid pressure, that pressure never gets to the reservoir. The reservoir only sees a pressure build up as a result of fluid expansion due to temperature.

This is one good reason to never overfill your steering system. You need an air volume in the pump reservoir to allow for expansion of the fluid due to elevated temperatures.

If you find it necessary to cut off the stick portion of your cap in order to remove the cap from the reservoir, you will need some other method to determine that you have sufficient (but not too much) fluid in the reservoir. You will note that the stick has two markings, COLD, and HOT. The distance between the markings is just how much the fluid expands when it goes from ambient (70 degrees or so) to underhood operating temperature (200 to 275 degrees).

Also if you have to cut off the stick, do not disturb the spring. The spring provides a constant force for the retaining clip in the cap to grab the reservoir neck.

If I can be of further help, either post or eMail me direct.

 

Replace belt w/ slightly longer like Gates 7365. Did this around 77 & will allow the cap to be removed.

:cool:

 

If I use a longer belt, the pulley will rub the frame. I used to use a longer belt, and could get the dipstick out, but then the pulley started rubbing, so it got moved and I lost the right to check/refill fluid.

 

It just occurred to me. Could your engine be sitting too low? Is that why your pump pulley is hitting the crossmember? Possibly a problem with the motor mount(s). Unfortunately, I'm not even sure what you measure or look for.

 

Ok, so here is the new plan. I am going to do nothing and wait until I get so frustrated my head explodes. This is obviously a temporary plan.
I may try the bubba cap, but I see no evidence of a valve on either cap.
I may just remove the alternator and bracket every time I want to check the fluid. Are there any aftermarket brackets for the alternator?
A new pulley would speed up the pump, a bad idea.
I should try to figure out why my car is sinking. The story:
Purchased car in 98
Motor mounts were replaced in 99
Pulley started rubbing winter 00/01
There is a dent in the rail, but I didn't put it there.

:cry