Roller rocker adjustment???
So- you can now differentiate between the "knock" and the "tick".
And... assuming you loosened both I/E rockers so far that the valves were not opening at all... this would mean that the cylinder would not have fuel, and could not fire. At this point, the knock went away? No compression, no fuel, no down force on the piston... And... when you pull the plug wire, the same result... dead cylinder... the knock went away? This indicates a wrist pin or a rod bearing. My best guess given what you have said so far. Unless anyone else has more ideas, it's time to drop the pan and check the rod bearings.
Messing with the rockers "within range" (valves still opening & closing) would not have given you the same results... but taking them all the way out will make a diff, as you found out.

My options then are: crate motor (ZZ4), short block only $1300, or rebuild current motor, or try to fix the one rod bearing.
Everything on the top end is brand new, so that is why I am considering a short block. Also I already have a 700R4 to put in. So if I do an engine pull, I will do the 700r4 also.
Any suggestions or comments?
[Modified by Rhys, 9:32 PM 10/20/2001]


Did you pull the exhaust gasket on that side yet? That makes the same knocking noise. A rod bearing would not change like you described. It just knocks and knocks, no changes in sound. A broken piston pin, maybe.
Budman

Now I have got to decide if I am going to pull the motor or not.



