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I don't see what the big deal is about worrying about the heights of these things. Did it cross anyones mind that you can check for free play as well as clutch release with the transmission NOT installed?
Just stick an old input shaft in the clutch and have someone step on the pedal. The person under the car has the job of making sure that there is release, by trying to turn the input. The other job is to keep the release bearing somewhat guided on the clutch cover by holding the fork and bearing centered on the clutch cover...
Move the pivot point in towards the engine (longer or lengthen pivot) to decrease freeplay and increase release while maintaining an decent amount of adjustment on your adjustment rod.
I don't see what the big deal is about worrying about the heights of these things. Did it cross anyones mind that you can check for free play as well as clutch release with the transmission NOT installed?
Just stick an old input shaft in the clutch and have someone step on the pedal. The person under the car has the job of making sure that there is release, by trying to turn the input. The other job is to keep the release bearing somewhat guided on the clutch cover by holding the fork and bearing centered on the clutch cover...
Move the pivot point in towards the engine (longer or lengthen pivot) to decrease freeplay and increase release while maintaining an decent amount of adjustment on your adjustment rod.
LIVE on the bench this moment!
My big deal is that my auto - manual conversion kit as delivered, using the max adjustment still required the clutch petal to be pushed to the floor to disengage. Now I have the tranny back out for a motor swap and this was one of the items I needed to correct
My big deal is that my auto - manual conversion kit as delivered, using the max adjustment still required the clutch petal to be pushed to the floor to disengage. Now I have the tranny back out for a motor swap and this was one of the items I needed to correct
Exactly.... you could have checked this before you put your transmission in the first time! There is no need to do this extra labor, my point is you can figure this all out BEFORE you put the transmission in the car.
George...I always use whatever I need to to get it set where the throwout arm is angled toward front of car..almost touching the front edge of scattershield opening when at rest along with some freeplay gap. You can do this with the stud, but I usually find I need the adjustable one because *perfect* is somewhere in the middle.
Years ago...there were actually 3 length throwout bearings available. Short, medium and long. Nowadays you only find short and long.
But Mcleod came out with a slick throwout bearing a while back. It uses a removable sleeve/collar that slips out of the bearing. It comes with several machined spacer rings so that you can custom tailor the length of bearing to match up with whatever combo of arm, stud, pressure plate, flywheel and bellhousing you might have. It cost about $50 for the bearing assy.....but it really works well. I love it. It was a long overdue part in the hot rod world and can solve lots of issues!
Exactly.... you could have checked this before you put your transmission in the first time! There is no need to do this extra labor, my point is you can figure this all out BEFORE you put the transmission in the car.
The real problem is: When you pay nearly $5000 for a kit, never in my wildest dreams would it occur to me that it would be delivered with parts that did not work together.
Just a little R&D before you sell something. Or what about the first kit sold and then fix the problems for the next sales.
Jim, I bought the $50 McLeod 2 1/2 or 3inch adjustable ball. But you would have to set it correct and then cut the excess hardend steel thread off before mounting the tranny.
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