calipers
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Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Modesto CA.
calipers
started a thread with some thoughts on aluminum brake calipers that i saw on corvette centrals web.... i have one caliper that is sucking air but no fluid leak....and sooner or later no brakes.... so i thought if i threw more money at my car..... get the picture....
the real picture is.
new calipers, rebuilt with s/s, new rotors and turned... new lines....new master...(dot5)... trailing arms rebuilt.... now the arms and calipers were new 15yrs ago but i never installed them utill 5/06....maybe they went bad?....or could it be something else?
i like the idea of aluminum calipers
thanks
the real picture is.
new calipers, rebuilt with s/s, new rotors and turned... new lines....new master...(dot5)... trailing arms rebuilt.... now the arms and calipers were new 15yrs ago but i never installed them utill 5/06....maybe they went bad?....or could it be something else?
i like the idea of aluminum calipers
thanks
Last edited by jack 69; Feb 16, 2007 at 01:51 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 8,918
Likes: 27
From: New Hill NC
Instead of throwing more money after it, you should throw a little knowledge at it. This symptom is caused by rotor runnout. The key thing here is, you turned the rotors. That may not have been the best thing to do. Now you need to go back and check the runnout on each rotor and get them into spec. That will solve the brake problem.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 133
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From: Wichita KS
If you're thinking about aluminum calipers, check out the kits at Corvette Engineering. Keith makes a superb kit to mount Wilwood calipers to our cars.
http://www.corvettengineering.com/brakes.html
http://www.corvettengineering.com/brakes.html
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: Modesto CA.
?
Instead of throwing more money after it, you should throw a little knowledge at it. This symptom is caused by rotor runnout. The key thing here is, you turned the rotors. That may not have been the best thing to do. Now you need to go back and check the runnout on each rotor and get them into spec. That will solve the brake problem.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: Modesto CA.
If you're thinking about aluminum calipers, check out the kits at Corvette Engineering. Keith makes a superb kit to mount Wilwood calipers to our cars.
http://www.corvettengineering.com/brakes.html
http://www.corvettengineering.com/brakes.html
Racer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 342
Likes: 0
From: Onley VA
Having the rotors turned is a good thing IF done right. They have to be witnin spec on runout and thickness when finished, sometimes they're half azzed and not done right. But your problem might not have anything to with the rotors. Rubber seals, when sitting for long periods of time unused can take memory of their position and begin leaking when finaly moved. Are you sure they are pumping and not just leaking? If leaking they will still suck air when you release the pedal.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 94
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From: Modesto CA.
Having the rotors turned is a good thing IF done right. They have to be witnin spec on runout and thickness when finished, sometimes they're half azzed and not done right. But your problem might not have anything to with the rotors. Rubber seals, when sitting for long periods of time unused can take memory of their position and begin leaking when finaly moved. Are you sure they are pumping and not just leaking? If leaking they will still suck air when you release the pedal.
so I would check rotor runout then.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 8,918
Likes: 27
From: New Hill NC
If you put a dial indicator on the caliper that is sucking air, you will find that it has a considerable amount of runout. You will have to take care of that before you will have any lasting brake.
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From: Modesto CA.
The original set up was riveted together and turned as a unit. This assured that the shaft and rotor were true. Once removed, turned and reinstalled, they never are correct again. At least not without trueing them up in some way. The correct way is to do the same thing the factory did and turn them as a unit. The next best thing would be to true up both mating surfaces and match them that way. The next would be to re-position or shim the rotor to reduce the run out to a manageable level.
If you put a dial indicator on the caliper that is sucking air, you will find that it has a considerable amount of runout. You will have to take care of that before you will have any lasting brake.
If you put a dial indicator on the caliper that is sucking air, you will find that it has a considerable amount of runout. You will have to take care of that before you will have any lasting brake.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 8,918
Likes: 27
From: New Hill NC
Not dumn, just not aware of the problems. Jack the car up, support the rear suspension so that the wheels are not hanging. Remove the wheels and replace the lug nuts. Start the car and let the wheels turn. Take a look at that rotor and watch the pads. My guess, you will see them moving in and out. This is the action that causes the air pumping. Remove the caliper and turn the rotor to one of the other possible positions. Find the best position. This may mean you cant adjust the parking brake because the hole will be covered. If that dont work, you may have to make some very thin shims to go under the rotor to correct the runout. You can make them like a washer and install on the lugs where needed.
Last edited by wombvette; Feb 17, 2007 at 01:36 AM.
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 94
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From: Modesto CA.
thanks for the info!... how much shim is to much? .004? .010? seems that there might be a point where i might look at some other ......Geezzz!... one thing at a time..... i'll give it a try!
Thanks!!!
Thanks!!!
Pro
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 647
Likes: 22
From: Norwalk CT and Boynton Beach FL
Not dumn, just not aware of the problems. Jack the car up, support the rear suspension so that the wheels are not hanging. Remove the wheels and replace the lug nuts. Start the car and let the wheels turn. Take a look at that rotor and watch the pads. My guess, you will see them moving in and out. This is the action that causes the air pumping. Remove the caliper and turn the rotor to one of the other possible positions. Find the best position. This may mean you cant adjust the parking brake because the hole will be covered. If that dont work, you may have to make some very thin shims to go under the rotor to correct the runout. You can make them like a washer and install on the lugs where needed.
Thanks