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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 09:54 AM
  #1  
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Default Loctite questions

Hi guys,

my lack of experience just shone through again.
I forgot to shake a new bottle of loctite 243 when proofing the upper control arm bushing retainer bolts. Is this so bad that I should clean it up and reinstall or will it still hold? I just installed new poly bushings and have read that these can walk if there is no thread locker.

I am slightly paranoid about this as that part of my suspension fell of just after I bought the car, due to that this particular fastener had walked . I figure next time it happens wont be just when the car stops.

Also, I torqued to 80% of specs as I figured that the loctite would have some lubricating properties. Is that sensible? I am once again bringing up that old question if the torque specs in the manuals are for dry clean bolts.
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 10:45 AM
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That stuff really needs to be mixed well, and it separates quickly. I would redo them just for piece of mind.
I had techs at work that used to put the lock-tite in a little cup and just dip the screw into it when assembling the screws. We had failures, and it turn out the lock-tite would break down sitting out like that.
The Lock-Tite people told us it needed to stay in the bottle and it had to be shaken often.
I would still torque it to spec.
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by mooneyd
That stuff really needs to be mixed well, and it separates quickly. I would redo them just for piece of mind.
I had techs at work that used to put the lock-tite in a little cup and just dip the screw into it when assembling the screws. We had failures, and it turn out the lock-tite would break down sitting out like that.
The Lock-Tite people told us it needed to stay in the bottle and it had to be shaken often.
I would still torque it to spec.
Also, Loctite does not provide much lubrication and even loctite recomends torque to spec
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 05:14 PM
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i am going on memory here but i think taking the end cap bolts out won't be an issue. it's just a matter of taking them out, loctite'n them and reinstalling and torque'n them. the shafts won't misalign upon removal of the bolt. ..anybody?
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 06:30 PM
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Ok, thanks for you advice.

I'll remove those bolts and put fresh loctite on it before torqing to specs. This time, I'll shake that bottle
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by thrilher
i am going on memory here but i think taking the end cap bolts out won't be an issue. it's just a matter of taking them out, loctite'n them and reinstalling and torque'n them. the shafts won't misalign upon removal of the bolt. ..anybody?
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 07:14 PM
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I've been selling Loctite for over 20 years, it's a good product.
Yes, it will separate, so shake it before you use it. Dipping the bolt is not a bad idea if you have that much to waste. Cleaning or priming the bolt is more important than anything else. If you don't have a primer, use an electrical contact cleaner that evaporates to prime. If you just use a couple of drops, make sure the drops fall within the thread engagement area, as this will work into the "space" where the threads engage.
Remember, Loctite will lock the threads down and seal them up to protect them from rusting and corroding. I believe the 243 is a medium strength, which is fine for most applications. If you ever have to take them back apart, say in 5-10 years, you'll be glad you used Loctite. I've seen bolts/nuts so corroded they had to be cut off, but the thread engagement area had been Loctite'd, and, after removing the threadlocker, that area looked like new!
One more thing, it's an anerobic. Therefore, it only cures between the metals. So after assembly, wipe away the excess because it will never cure.
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by thrilher
i am going on memory here but i think taking the end cap bolts out won't be an issue. it's just a matter of taking them out, loctite'n them and reinstalling and torque'n them. the shafts won't misalign upon removal of the bolt. ..anybody?
we took ours out to put the lock tight on them......AFTER ONE WALKED AWAY............and yes they were poly bushings
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Old Feb 20, 2007 | 11:26 PM
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Mine came out also. They were done at a shop not by me. I had to have the car towed. It moved into the fan shrowd, very close to damaging the radiator, and could not steer the car. Thank God it happened in my driveway! After they put it back together, with loc-tite, I marked them with paint so I could tell at a glance if they were moving. So far all is good.
Dave
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Old Feb 21, 2007 | 09:09 AM
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After I installed Poly's The Nuts loosened and were backing off after a few Hundred Miles. I Re-tightened and used Loctite & Lock washers, as "I think?" was suggested By Zips where I got the Front end Rebuild Kit.
I watched it closely for awhile and then forgot about the issue. Been fine for 60K miles.
My 2centavos is do it again if you have any doubts about the setup!
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Old Feb 21, 2007 | 09:13 AM
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Hopefully soon, I will be reassembling my new suspension front and rear. Working on cleaning/painting the frame right now...

Anyway, should I loctite every single suspension fastener and does anyone have any recommendations or list for using a particular strength loctite with one particular component and another strength Loctite with another, etc. etc.?
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Old Feb 21, 2007 | 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by mooneyd
I marked them with paint so I could tell at a glance if they were moving. So far all is good.
Dave
great idea i'm gonna do this also
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Old Feb 21, 2007 | 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by mooneyd
Mine came out also. They were done at a shop not by me. I had to have the car towed. It moved into the fan shrowd, very close to damaging the radiator, and could not steer the car. Thank God it happened in my driveway! After they put it back together, with loc-tite, I marked them with paint so I could tell at a glance if they were moving. So far all is good.
Dave
Good tip.
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