When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
VetteManiac,
I posted a question on the C1&C2 forum about using a Borg Warner T-5 in a '63-'67. I have a Richmond 5-speed in my '63. 5th gear is 1:1. It wasn't a bolt-in swap as advertised, but the performance increase is worth it. My real interest now is getting an overdrive into a daily driver. I know the Borg Warner is not a strong trans, but I don't plan on putting more than 250 hp into my next project. 427HOTROD mentioned that VetteManiac had put a Tremec in a C3. Did you have any problems with the shifter/trans mount?
I also ahve a Tremec TKO in my '82. Either the Tremec 3550 or the TKO has enough capacity to handle your motor. The 3550 is rated at 450 ft lbs, and the TKO is rated at 550 ft lbs. I have my TKO behind a 650hp/580 ft lb motor, and other than a Centerforce Dual Firction that can't handle the power, I ahven't had any problems with the tranny. It's a very good, smooth shifting tranny.
The only reall issue with the Tremec swap is the shifter. As you probably know, it uses a centrally mounted internal rail shifter, while this provides smooth, accurate shifting, it does create an issue since the opening in you center console is located to the left of the centerline. All you have to do is use a shifter that features a shift stem that bolts to the shifter stub/base. The space the shifter handle over about 1.5" using long bolts and spacer blocks or washers. All this will fit under the shift boot, and will be transparent once everyhting is installed.
Like Monty I am very pleased with the performance of my TKO. I did have a few more installation issues in my 72 than he did though. The shifter stub that he mentioned would hit my console plate, so I ended up cutting the stub and rewelding it at a 45 deg. angle. I also cut the bottom off of the shift handle and welded it to a matching angle. This solved the console clearance problem. I also had to cut a sizeable hole in my floor and glass in some extra hole that I didn't need anymore. It took some time and effort to install but in the end I was very satisfied with the results. Let me know if you need any more info.
Can't comment on the Tremec installation in a Vette, but I can say I ripped my P.O.S. T-5 out of my 84 Z28. The early T5's had crappy synchro's and puked out quite easily, and behind my 190 HP L69, it :U . If you were looking for a T5, look for a 86 or later World Class T5 (or "WC T5"). The WC T5 should handle your 250 HP but I STRONGLY recommend AGAINST the earlier T5's. That being said, I replaced the P.O.S. T5 with the Tremec 3550 because I was putting in a 420HP 383. With my 3.73 rear end, it's awesome. Nice steep first gear and a lower Overdrive ratio (than the T5) puts me at 2,000 rpm's at highway speed. Whether you go with the Tremec or the T5, you'll still have the shifter problem though. The WC T5 is a viable lower cost option over the Tremec, however the Tremec will give you more umph out of first and lower cruising rpm's in 5th.
I am installing a Tremec TKO in place of my 89 T5. I really liked the T5. I had no problems with it behind my blown bigblock. I do not power shift but regularly lite them up even in 3rd without blowning anything. I also have a 11 second slicked 355 nitrous mustang with the same T5 and never hurt it. They are cheap and will stand abuse but not power shifting. The tremec was installed just for reliablity in case I go back to running slicks on the street. I have installed the tremec and it touched the tunnel in one spot but a little grinding clearance that. It does not touch the cross member once pushed up into place . My shifter came out in the middle but since I run a custom plate that was not a problem.
Before launching into the brain damage associated with the Tremec or ROD install, consider a Super T-10 from Texracing with a REALLY wide gear spread. They offer a 4sp with a 3.4 (+/-) first gear and a 1:1 fourth. Couple this with a 3.08 rear end and you'll be quick off the line with cruise well below 2500 rpm.